Argentina Here I Come!

Today's the day! South America adventure take 2. There are five flights between Missoula and our first destination - Mendoza, Argentina. This is the second time my Mom and I have attempted this Argentina & Uruguay trip. Last year, we made it as far as Los Angeles, where I burst an eardrum on the final domestic flight. But never fear! We're back at it with enough decongestants to fill a drug store and a whole lot of enthusiasm. We're leaving Missoula, Montana on a warm day, 45F! While this heat wave has allowed us to trek to the airport without our down jackets, I'm ready for Mendoza's forecast of 90F and sunny. The only thing separating us is a brief overnight in Los Angeles and 16 hours of flight time. Upon arrival we are going to taste the region’s malbec wines, visit the tallest peak in the Americas, and learn to cook traditional Mendocino cuisine. Then we’re off to Buenos Aires for a look at the city life, and will finish the trip exploring the coast of Uruguay. Buen viaje!

Our first day on our Mendoza tour has been nothing short of perfect - we cooked a meal in a busy Argentine kitchen, toured the largest family winery in the country, mailed 3 cases of wine back to the US and ate more meat than I feel comfortable admitting. There is a surprising abundance of trees, flowering bushes, tall grasses and expansive lush laws covering the city and roadways. But the verdant appearance of Mendoza is misleading - the entire province is actually an arid desert. Lying in the rain shadow of the Andes, Mendoza has 300 days of sunshine and less than 10 inches of rain a year. An ingenious network of aquaducts has allowed the cultivation of vineyards and the fertile landscaping, and in combination with Mendoza’s glacial soil and sun, has created world-class conditions for producing wine. We checked in to our Mendoza hotel, Club Tapiz. It is in the countryside about 20 minutes outside of the city; a beautiful hotel, restaurant and winery situated on a 15 acre vineyard. We are lucky enough to stay in Casa Zolo, the historic governor’s mansion, a 2 minute stroll from the main building. Casa Zolo is a classic Spanish manse with french doors, gorgeous tiled floors, a private pool and only four rooms. We feel like we have the whole house to ourselves! Today we drove 45 minutes east to the Bodega Zuccardi, the largest family owned and operated vineyard in Argentina. We walked through half a mile of “espalvero” style vineyard to the Casa de Visitante, where a patio shaded by the cover of hanging grape vines heavy with big, sweet green and yellow grapes hung over wooden tables. We enjoyed cafe con leche, pastries and fly fishing tales from our guide, Ezekial. We were then directed inside, where we were given aprons and introduced to our chef and cooking instructor, Aurora. She ushered us into the kitchen, which was a bustling, fast-paced restaurant kitchen where jacketed chefs were busily preparing the day’s lunch. We set up at a marble island that stretched the length of the room, with the grill full of big pots and pans on one side and the pastry chef working on the other. Aurora brought us out bowls of flour, yeast, salt, sugar, egg yolk, a pitcher of warm water, and three ramekins filled with onions, meat, and cheeses. First, we made dough for baguettes, and set our three spheres of dough aside to rise. Then, Aurora presented a thick slab of puff pastry dough, which we took to the back of the kitchen and took turns feeding through a giant mechanical roller. I went first, hastily catching the lengthening dough as it spun out of the roller. My mom went next, and as the dough kept getting longer and thinner we realized that this was not a simple process. By the time John took over, the 12 inch wide ribbon of dough was nearly ten feet long and we laughed hysterically as he doubled hand over hand, looping the length of dough over his arms, frantically trying to keep up with the output of the machine. It took all four of us to carry the thin sheet back to our marble work space. Aurora quartered the dough and gave each of us a small saucer to use as stencil. We each cut out six disks, to be used for empanadas! We then filled them with carne, a blend of three cheeses and sauted onions. We struggled as Aurora taught us the technique for sealing the dough pockets, watching as she delicately scalloped the edges of the casings, while our’s came out, well, to be honest, pretty ugly. Fortunately the appearance did not affect the flavor! Once our preparation of the empanadas was finished, we resumed our work with the baguettes and carried our creations out the back of the kitchen, round to two adobe ovens filled with glowing coals. We placed the empanadas and bread into the ovens. Sweating from the heat, pushed them inside and shut the iron doors. Opposite of the ovens, an enormous open grill stood covered in the traditional Argentinean barbeque - asado! Lamb, beef steak, black sausages, chicken, salted pork, and chorizo sizzled on the iron grill, the rich aroma of spices filling the air. With our eyes wide and our mouths watering, we sat down with glasses of wine and attempted to be patient as our lunch was cooked.

We enjoyed our empanadas, and then took a two hour tour of the winery. We have planned our Argentina travel at perfect time - March is the month of the harvest! Giant trucks bringing grapes from Zuccardi’s other properties hauled their loads into the production area, and we watched as the winery’s 1,000 workers prepared bottles, labeled 300 kilogram crates of grapes, and shoveled destemmed grape skins into giant containers ready for distillation. After being thoroughly impressed by the industrial wine-making process, we went back to the Casa de Visitante for lunch. Our waiter brought hot skillets of meat to our table no less than five times, offering the juicy asado we had seen on the grill. Accompanied by fresh salad, grilled vegetables, sweet tomatoes and of course wine, we ate, drank, and laughed until we could barely move. A truly perfect day of friends, family and Argentinean tradition!

Heading west on Ruta 7, we drove out of the pampas and vineyards of Mendoza and into the mountains. We passed the last vineyard and then entered a stunning red, orange and yellow limestone canyon. The Rio Mendoza, nearly completely dry at this time of year, snakes it's way through the narrow valley. We first stopped to see the "Arenas Amarillos", or Yellow Sands, a strange deposit of Bentonite, the mineral that is used to filter white wines. The sands have formed a dozen rounded peaks along the far side of the river.

Two hours later, after climbing over 5,000 feet, we reached the small, dusty village of Las Cuevas. The small town is kept alive by the tourists and pilgrims that come to visit the “Puente del Inca,” or Bridge of the Incas. The natural bridge was formed during the last ice age, when avalanches bringing sediments and rocks flowed over the ice that covered the river, along with minerals from the adjacent hot spring. As the temperatures warmed and the ice melted, the natural stone bridge was left in place, hovering above the river. The sulfuric springs still pump out hot water, and the cascades have covered the bridge and the east bank in brilliant yellow, orange and green mineral deposits. In the sunlight, the bridge sparkles gold.

We continued further up the pass, reaching the entrance to Parque Aconcagua, at almost 10,000 feet. We were so wide-eyed, staring up at the surrounding mountains, that the colossal blue and white Cerro Aconcagua appeared entirely by surprise.

The behemoth Glaciar Superior, balanced on the north face, was thick enough that we could see it with the naked eye, nearly 14 miles away. At 22,837 feet, Aconcagua is the highest point in North or South America, and the second tallest peak in the world.

It was understood without explanation that this is a very spiritual place, and upon reaching the lookout point on the trail we all fell silent, staring in awe at the Cerro Aconcagua. As the thin clouds flowed over the summit, my Mom leaned over and said, “I’m really in the Andes!”

Another typical morning in Mendoza - out and off to a winery by 9AM! We drove 20 minutes to Lujan de Cuyo, where the Tapiz vineyard is located. This was an entirely different experience from the Familia Zuccardi winery, where Zuccardi reaches 1,000 employees during the harvest, Tapiz maxes out at only 60 workers. Our fabulous guide, Juan, made the Mendoza wine tour both fun and highly informative, expanding our knowledge and appreciation for the intricacies of the wine-making process. He poured us glasses straight from the giant aluminum fermentation vats! Our first sample had just been put into the container the day before. No yeast had been added, so it was essentially grape juice. The murky, brown and yellow color did not look inviting, but the grapes are so sweet, almost like candy, that it was quite delicious. We then tasted the second stage, after yeast has been added and the fermentation process has begun. This stage is not so good, very bitter and acidic. Finally, we tasted the finished product, 8 months in the vat, now a real Sauvignon Blanc. We finished the tour and Juan pulled us aside for a surprise - to my Mom’s delight, we got to ride in a horse-drawn carriage through the vineyard! The horses, named Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, were both a beautiful rich brown color, and pulled the carriage at a quick pace, allowing us to see the majority of the grounds in only 30 minutes.

We left the Tapiz Winery and drove down the road, by chance stumbling upon the Bodega Melipal. The second we crossed through the gate, we knew we had entered the next level of luxury in Mendoza. The winery is only 10 years old, but the owners had set out to make an impression. The restaurant looks out over rows of grapes, swaying poplar trees, and the blue Montana Plata and Volcano Tupungato in the background. (Side story - Tupungato is the same mountain featured in the film “Alive”, depicting the true story of the Brazilian rugby team whose plane crashed on the mountain, leading to cannibalism and eventually their rescue. Cool!) We were seated on the deck, and enjoyed a completely ridiculous 5-course lunch along with wine pairings. Four hours later, we enjoyed a late harvest Malbec sorbet and finished the meal. John decided to start cataloging his steaks, perhaps the start of a carnivorous photo essay!

Mendoza is the only province in Argentina that still observes a siesta. Actually -- scratch that -- that celebrates a siesta. Mendocinos take their Spanish heritage very seriously, and they have maintained a four hour break in the school or work day from 12:30 - 4:30 PM every day. In our professional Western working lives, a break this extensive seems absurd, but I have developed a sincere appreciation for this "slow life." Our incredibly kind driver, Claudio, explained that work begins at 8AM, and at 12:30PM the parents collect their children from school, and the family meets at home for a leisurely lunch. The parents get time in the afternoon to enjoy their children, families come together, and the day is appreciated outside of work. Coming from a Montana winter where it dark when I leave home for the office and dark when I return, this tradition is more than appealing. As I learned from a new friend here, one of the biggest differences between North American and Latin American culture is that our Southern counterparts "work to live", where as many of us northerners have fallen into a habit of "living to work." While the North American work ethic can afford us a different lifestyle and accompanying opportunities, I am not so sure if it translates into a higher quality of life. Even two weeks on a South America tour has helped me realize that I need to find a better balance between my life in and outside of the office. We flew to Buenos Aires this afternoon, and our pace adjusted accordingly to the faster city life. Buenos Aires' gorgeous French and Colonial architecture, expansive green parks, and broad avenues welcomed us, and we set out on the next chapter of our Argentina trip.

We were greeted this morning by our bright and energetic guide, Jose. His enthusiasm and humor were literally infectious, and we soon found ourselves more excited for our Buenos Aires city tour than we ever expected! We visited the most famous barrios, or neighborhoods - Retiro, Palermo, Recoleta, La Boca, and San Telmo. We then went for a walk through the Recoleta Cemetery, the extravagance and architecture of the tombs was outrageous to say the least. Even though the faith and memories exuded by the cemetery were powerful, I couldn't help by be slightly uncomfortable amongst so many coffins.

Our spirits were lifted as we moved on to La Boca, a tourist center located near the mouth of the Rio del Plata, hence the name “La Boca”, or “The Mouth”. The neighborhood is comprised of narrow cobblestone streets lined by brightly colored shops and houses, the bright reds, blues, greens, yellows, and purples reflecting the warm Latin hospitality of the locals. Costumed tango dancers line the streets and restaurant fronts, asking for tips in exchange for priceless photo ops of your travel companions in seductive tango poses. This is a great spot to people watch, and also to look for colorful artwork.

In the evening we dressed up for a tango dinner show at Esquina Carlos Gardel. One word - WOW! The dinner, the service, the theater and the performance were all exceptional. The music was played by a live band elevated above the stage. We stared in awe as the couples strutted and twirled beneath the lights. The tango is nothing short of an art form, and of all the things you can do in Buenos Aires, I would highly recommend the Esquina Carlos Gardel Tango Show for anyone on an Argentina tour.

I'll be completely honest -- I love clothes. I adore coordinating outfits, accessories, shoes, make-up -- if it's pretty, I'm in. It's taken several years and an informal 12-step program instituted by my ever-so-patient boyfriend to admit this without shame -- but hey -- I'm a shopoholic! And where in South American should any savvy shopper go? Buenos Aires! The San Telmo Sunday market provides over 3 miles of artisan crafts, leather bags, hand tailored dresses, shoes, and antique jewelry. The entire Avenue Defensa is closed to car traffic, and with the dozens of chic shops that line the street itself, it creates a fashionista's paradise. Having read several guide books and the Adventure Life destination guide, I packed a wardrobe ready for fashion-conscious Buenos Aires. What I did not expect, though, was the results of a true "food and wine" tour. Which leads me to a bit of advice. What NOT to wear in Argentina: 1. Anything involving a waist belt or similarly constricting device around the waist or stomach area. Remember the bit about 4 hour lunches? Well, take it from me -- by the third course all I wanted was a terry cloth leisure suit. Pack for comfort as much as style. 2. Heels. While you may feel under-dressed next to the throngs of Latinas effortlessly wearing 5-inch heels through cobblestone streets, grocery stores, and even the airport, you do not want to be stuck in uncomfortable footwear. I'd like to think our hours, upon hours, upon hours of walking counteracted some of the empanadas and dulce de leche. 3. Money belt that fits inside of your pants. Oh wait -- John has worn one of these gems for the duration of our Argentina trip. While I get admittedly embarrassed while he fishes it out at the cash register, it is an excellent way to carry cash and avoid worrying about pickpockets. Ah, high fashion here we come!

We traveled from Uruguay’s capital, Montevideo, east toward the Atlantic Ocean. As we left the city and passed through suburbs and then smaller outlying towns, one thing struck me: there are no fences. There are no concrete walls shielding the houses from the street, there is no razor wire or broken glass trimming the perimeter of shops and homes - which if you’re familiar with South American cities, these accoutrements are the norm. Not in Uruguay. The rolling green hills, stands of eucalyptus trees and brilliant blue sky make Uruguay a verdant paradise. As if the landscape wasn’t enough, just on the other side of the road is the ocean, golden sand and enormous crashing waves sending sea spray high into the air. Horses galloped across the seemingly borderless pastures on our left, and surfers lined up for the next wave on our right. My first impression - Uruguay has it all.

We arrived at Miradores de Laguna Garzon, the home and boutique hotel built by Pablo and Andi Sosa. Upon walking in, the feeling of being in a feature home in “Architectural Digest” is nearly overwhelming. Andi and Pablo have taken impeccable care with their home and business, applying beautiful touches to even the smallest details. Even our bath towels, tied with twine and trimmed with dried wildflowers, made us feel like royalty. Pablo took us across the lagoon to his most prized property, the Laguna Garzon Floating Hotel. As he toured us through the wooden boardwalks, floating cabins, and restaurant, Pablo explained that he had to bring both power and fresh water to the lodge. The lodge has provided more than a unique tourist retreat, it has also brought electricity to the bordering fishing village, which was without power until the lodge’s construction three years ago. While the luxurious floating cabins were retired in early March for the off season, it was easy to see how this is a place that you could come back to year after year. We enjoyed an Uruguayan Tannat wine under the brilliant southern stars and slept peacefully in the quiet of the countryside. For families and honeymooners alike, the Miradores and Floating Lodge at Laguna Garzon are an experience like no other!

A thin bar of sand separates the sea from a long circuit of shallow lagoons which serve as a sanctuary for marine life and birds along Uruguay's eastern shore. Today we drove from Jose Ignacio north to Laguna Rocha, a 72 square kilometer body of water that appears as an endless sheen of blue glass stretching across the horizon. With an average depth of only 3 feet, this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve takes water in from the ocean during parts of the year, and then as the sand builds a barrier against the sea, the lagoon balances fresh and saltwater, creating a unique ecosystem ideal for shrimp, crabs, molluscs and the birds that feed on them. We drove to the southern end of the lagoon and waited for our guides to arrive, we peered across the lagoon and made out three figures that appeared to be walking on top of the water! The three silhouettes were walking through the calf-deep water over a half a mile away, pulling canoes behind them.

Our guides, Rosario and Mariana, were accompanied by Daniel, a park ranger who gave us every detail of the natural history of the lagoon and its flora and fauna. We stepped into the canoes and paddled into the center of the lagoon, which was so wide that the western edge melted away into the horizon. To our east, every few minutes white ocean spray would shoot over the sandbar, exposing the enormous waves crashing just beyond the edge of the lagoon. We paddled to a small island, and on the other side we watched as Black Necked Swans, Chilean Flamingos and countless other migratory birds fished in the shallow water. We alternately paddled and walked through the lagoon to it’s northern shore, where we carried the canoes out of the water. We were met by bicycles for the next leg of our trek - mountain biking to the La Paloma lighthouse! We wound through hilly horse pastures, lush green fields dotted by broad Ombu trees, and sporadic views of the Atlantic. Hours later we reached the lighthouse, where we enjoyed a fresh picnic prepared by our incredible guides. We ended at the Pueblo Barrancas EcoLodge, where we shared a Pilsner and heartfelt goodbyes with Mariana and Rosario, thanking them for one of the most incredible days of our trip.

The sound of the ocean woke me at 6AM. The waves were pounding the beach so loudly that as I opened my eyes I would have thought the water was only a few feet away. In reality, I was cozy in our cabana at Pueblo Barrancas EcoLodge, tucked into the trees at least 100 meters from the beach. Ten stilted, quincha-roofed cabanas and 20 wall tents are hidden throughout the 15 acre private property. Pampas grass swayed overhead as we navigated the lodge’s trails, blocking the ever-present wind and perfecting the intimate coastal atmosphere. We took off at 10AM with Denver, our surf guru from Estorer Surf Shop. Denver took us to La Aguada, a long shallow beach just in sight of the La Paloma lighthouse. John tucked his long board under his arm and immediately ran into the water, grinning from ear to ear. I, on the other hand, tightly gripped my body board and stared at the massive waves in complete terror as Denver told me what to do. He nicknamed me “Poncho”, after the famous surfer Poncho Sullivan, in hopes of instilling some confidence. After working my way into the surf for 30 minutes, swallowing about a gallon of seawater and being thrown about by the incredibly strong waves, I finally was able to catch one! Fun? Yes. Graceful? Most certainly not!

John surfed for several hours, and while he was waiting for the next set a horse came galloping through the water! Denver explained that they train horses nearby for endurance races in Saudi Arabia, and one of the big training exercises is to take the horses into the deep surf, and push them to run through chest-deep waves. Only in Uruguay! We ate dinner at the lodge’s Pueblo Bar, where we sat next to the open fire and watched our filets of lenguada (sole) sizzle on a cast iron grate. We finished our day exhausted, and completely enraptured by the sand, surf and sun of La Pedrera.