Currency (USD)
|
Log In
Email
Password Forgot Password
Sign in with GoogleSign in with Google
|
Favorites
Have questions? We're here.

South South of the Equator in the western hemisphere

Akademik Shokalsky, Danco Island
Akademik Shokalsky, Danco Island
We travelled as far south as Antarctica, where complete solitude was discovered.\"El Mitad del Mundo\" was the most northernly stop. Hiked the \"W\" circuit of Torres del Paine and the Inca Trail. Awed by Punta del Diablo, Salar de Uyu
All Photos

Photo Album

Edmonton-Calgary-Toronto

Feb 07, 2009
Ushuaia
Ushuaia (Jayne Hope)
Bob and I had been making plans for over a year. Finally the day arrived for our departure. Neither of us had been away from family, friends and province for this length of time. We were excited and grateful to leave the northern winter.

Santiago, Chile

Feb 08, 2009
Cape Petrel
Cape Petrel (Jayne Hope)
After a long flight we arrived in Santiago just after noon. Had no difficulty finding shared transportation to our hostel. La Casa Roja is the "Party Hostel". A great place to hang out and meet people no matter the age.

Santiago, Chile

Feb 09, 2009
1st sight of Shetland Islands
1st sight of Shetland Islands (Jayne Hope)
Went for a walking tour of central Santiago. Santiago is a very modern city surrounded by mountains. It was wonderful not to have to wear winter coats and boots.

Santiago to Valparaiso

Feb 10, 2009
1st zodiac launch
1st zodiac launch (Jayne Hope)
I definately recommend the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino as a way to comprehend the indigenous prior to Spanish conquistadors. I was amazed at the history and diplay at this museum. We took the subway to the bus station where we took a bus to Valparaiso. Buses in Chile are comfordable and affordable.

Valparaiso/Vina del Mar

Feb 11, 2009
Penguins everywhere
Penguins everywhere (Jayne Hope)
Casa Aventura in Cerro Conception is the hostel we stayed at. A fulfilling and nutritious breakfastis served every morning. The hostal is very clean. We stayed in a private room with shared bathroom. Quiet compared to La Casa Roja, but travellers would convene at the end of the day and share stories. We met a fellow Edmontonian who was celebrating his birthday at a nearby drinking establishment. We helped him to celebrate at Cinzano. Le Filou de Montpellier is good place for vegetarians to eat. Took a boat tour of the harbour and local transportation around Valparaiso and Vina del Mar; a micro from Plaza Sotomayor. The beach was packed!

Wineries

Feb 12, 2009
gentoo penguins
gentoo penguins (Jayne Hope)
Bob wanted to do some wine tasting. Spent the entire day visiting two different wineries between Valparaiso and Santiago. We booked the tour through our hostel.

La Sebastiana

Feb 13, 2009
mirror mirror on the wall...
mirror mirror on the wall... (Jayne Hope)
Found Pablo Neruda's digs in Valparaiso. The hike from our hostel to his place was all up hill. The view from Neruda's house is well worth the effort. There is plenty to do in Valparaiso and it is very picturesque. Loved the ascensors.

Valentine's Day

Feb 14, 2009
very photogenic
very photogenic (Jayne Hope)
Caught a bus very early in the morning to Santiago. Our travel alarm worked! We connected with another bus to Aeropuerto Internacional Arturo Merino Benitez. Flew Sky Airline to Punta Arenas. Spectacular view of the Strait of Magellan form our airplane window. We were landing at relatively the same latitude south of the equator as we lived north. It was extremely windy when we arrived at Aueropuerto Presidente Carlos Ibanez del Campo outside of Punta Arenas. Walking to our hostel in Punta Arenas after being transferred by bus from the airport was difficult.

7 night adventure with Paine Trekking

Feb 15, 2009
comical
comical (Jayne Hope)
One never knows if arrangements made via internet are going to pan out. Niko picked us up from our hostel in Punta Arenas to transfer us to Puerto Natales just as I had arranged through Paine Trekking via internet. The service and trip we received was excellent! I recommend this company.

Torres del Paine

Feb 16, 2009
Photo by Jayne Hope
Began hiking the "W" circuit from Hosteria Las Torres. Getting up the huge rocks in the final ascent to Mirador Las Torres was challenging. It was raining off and on which made the surface slippery. The view was well worth the challenge.

Los Cuernos

Feb 17, 2009
Sheathbill
Sheathbill (Jayne Hope)
Waking with the sights and sounds of the parque is exhilarating. Hiked four hours from Las Torres to Los Cuernos through riverbeds as trails. The spires of Los Cuernos are daunting to look at. We are able to view them from many different points. The lakes are an exquisite glacier blue. Water rushing down mountains sides, streams flowing into lakes and lush vegetation greet us along the circuit.

Mountain Lodge Paine Grande

Feb 18, 2009
Chinstrap Penguins
Chinstrap Penguins (Jayne Hope)
Along the trail I fell into one of the many streams we crossed and dislocated a finger. Rather than stop to have it assessed, I reset the finger and continued on. We trekked up to Valle Frances which should not be missed. This panoramic view is worth the effort. This night we spent in a tent surrounded by several other tents.

Lago Grey

Feb 19, 2009
A group of penguins
A group of penguins (Jayne Hope)
Trekked from Paine Grande to Grey Glacier. Cerro Paine Grande is 3050m. It is very rugged with pointy and jagged peaks and glaciers everywhere. This is very different from the Rocky Mountains which are in my province of Alberta. Yes the Rockies are spectacular but the mountains of Torres are unlike anything I have ever experienced before. I was definately taken by surprise when I first caught a glimpse of Grey Glacier. It was definately a high point for me.

Lago Grey

Feb 20, 2009
A group of penguins
A group of penguins (Jayne Hope)
Woke up early to hike to a viewpoint that gave a closer look at Grey Glacier at Campamento Paso. The colours, expanse and ruggedness of the glacier is worth seeing. The crew on the catamaran that ferried us to our bus back to Puerto Natales used ice from Grey Glacier to chill Pisco Sours that were served to us. By night fall we were back at our hostel In Puerto Nateles. Had a sumptuous yet inexpensive meal at La Marmita with our guides and travel companions on the last night of our adventure. Do not hesitate to experience Torres del Paine. It is a destination of most of the travellers we met. It was very busy when we were there. It will only get busier.

Town of Banff in Argentina

Feb 21, 2009
A group of penguins
A group of penguins (Jayne Hope)
El Calafate reminded me of Banff in Alberta, Canada.

Bob's birthday

Feb 22, 2009
Chinstrap
Chinstrap (Jayne Hope)
A once in a lifetime experience for someone's birthday. Perito Moreno Glacier should not be missed! We took a trip through our hostel.

Rio Gallegos

Feb 24, 2009
Stealing a prized pebble
Stealing a prized pebble (Jayne Hope)
Spent the morning walking around El Calafate before catching a bus to Rio Gallegos. Walked arond El Calafate in the morning. The lake was high. There geese around the lake. Found a very interesting natural history and ethnology museum. I recommend it. Rio Gallegos is a good place to stop overnight on the way to Ushuaia.

Ushuaia (El Fin Del Mundo)

Feb 25, 2009
Giant Petrel
Giant Petrel (Jayne Hope)
Los Comoranes Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, the edge of the world. A great place to stop before and after an Antarctic expedition. Museos Maritmo & Presidio are interesting. Exhibits various expeditions to Antarctica. There may be some ghosts in the prison museum.

Ushuaia

Feb 26, 2009
Bird on the shore
Bird on the shore (Jayne Hope)
It was at this hotel that we met passengers who would be on our Antarctic expedition.

Akademik Shokalsky

Feb 27, 2009
Deception Island
Deception Island (Jayne Hope)
By 5 o'clock we were on board the Akademik Shokalsky. We found our lodgings. We would be living here for the next 10 days. Bob bunked with the guys. I took the top bunk in a cabin with two other females. One from Australia. The other from South Africa. Akademik Shokalsky can take on 47 passengers, we had 46; and an expedition crew of ten. It was absolutely perfect. Ths was an expedition not a cruise. We sailed out of Ushuaia Bay. Saw Puerto Williams, on Isla Navarino which is in Chile and is across from Ushuaia. Saw the pilot exit our vessel after leaving Argentinian waters.

Drake (lake) Passage

Feb 28, 2009
Deception Island
Deception Island (Jayne Hope)
During the crossing of the Drake Passage we had seminars on ice bergs, glaciers, marine life, birds, vegetation and history. We received expedition jackets, special boots and directions on getting in and out of the zodiacs. Of course, if the journey through the Drake Passage was debilatating, then you could spend the day in your cabin. Fortunately, I was ok. I especially liked the seminar on penguins. I could not wait to see my first penguin in its natural environment! We did see Cape Petrels, Albatross, Antarctic Fulmars, Great Southern Petrels and Dolphins through the passage.

Land!

Mar 01, 2009
curious
curious (Jayne Hope)
At 4:30 in the afternoon land was spotted; land with snow and ice covering it. It was quite strange to travel for almost two complete days without seeing land. Imagine being in a city at the edge of the earth, travelling 24 hours without seeing land and finally seeing land again. These were only the Shetland Islands which are reached before the Antarctic Peninsula. We sailed between Robert and Greenwich Islands. Because the Drake Passage was crossed in record time, we were able to take our first zodiac landing. We dropped anchor at Aitcho Island (HO Island). There they were; soo many penguins, Gentoo and Chinstrap!! Also saw fur seals, Great Southern Petrel nests and Pale-faced Sheathbills

Unbelievable.

Mar 02, 2009
chick loosing its down
chick loosing its down (Jayne Hope)
Walker Bay, Livingston Island and Deception Island were the two zodiac landings for this day. Every zodiac landing we went for a hike. The elevation and length of the hike varied. We would usually spend two to three hous on a landing. I would be on the last zodiac return. We saw Gentoo, Chinstrap and one lonely Macaroni Penguin. The penguins were adults waiting for their feathers to molt before going out to sea. Some were very curious and came right up to us, especially the younger less experienced birds. One came and nibbled on my glove. We were cautioned not to touch the wildlife. It was very difficult not to pick them up and cuddle them. They look less like birds when they are standing in one place until you notice the molting feathers. They were very photogenic. Their behaviours were fun to watch. I never became bored of watching their activities. A group of elephant seals were molting on the shore of Livingston Island. A bull elephant seal was in the water. They were very interesting and really pleasant to observe. Deception Island was interesting because of its volcanic rock, cauldera formation and whaling history. The hike up to the top was met with various forms of precipitation. Snow does not bother me as I am certain it was snowing where I am from on the same day. It was windy but not cold.

Are we still on the same planet?

Mar 03, 2009
hide & seek?
Sunrising over the land and ice shelves of Antarctica. The colours and sounds are awesome! Spent the morning zodiac cruising Foyn Harbour, between Nansen and Enterprise Islands in Wilhelmina Bay 64'33' latitude south. Saw many artifacts from whaling expeditions. Unfortunately there is a long history of whale, seal and even penguin hunters in these waters. Some of the descriptions sound inhumane. Explorers who have met with grueling adventure or death are among the tales told in Antarctica. Islands, bays, waters are named for past royalty, explorers and whalers. Saw our first Minke and Humpback whales. Wow!! Our first continent landing was made in the afternoon in Neko Harbour on the west coast of Graham Land on an inlet in Arvark Bay. The experiences just kept getting better by the moment. This landing was fantastic. It was a gorgeous sunny day. The Gentoo Penguins were entertaining; forget television, go for the real thing! Chicks chased parents. Gentoo were waddling up hill and sliding down on their bellies alone or together. They were paddling, porpoising, and diving in the water. They were having a great day. Here there were chicks and adults molting. Chicks being fed. Skuas looking for krill and a Weddell seal laying on the shore. We listened to the silence and sounds of Antarctica. The "thunder" of Antarctica are glaciers calving and snow avalanches. It was easier to comprehend the thickness of untouched snow and ice shelves by seeing the crevasses. A person could never take too many pictures here!!

Another day of the unexpected

Mar 04, 2009
Narcissistic
Narcissistic (Jayne Hope)
Very early in the morning, as the sun was rising, we sailed through Lemaire Channel also known as Kodac Gap. Until you get close, it does not appear to be a passage through this channel. The glaciers on both sides of the vessel towered above us. They were so close, we could almost touch them. We did meet with some bergy bits and brash ice. At the south end of Lemaire Channel we took another eventful zodiac cruise in Pleneau Bay. This is an iceberg graveyard where icebergs as far away as the Ross Ice Shelf are cast aground. Just like snowflakes, there are never two ice bergs that are the same. Various colours, shapes, sizes of ice bergs were admired. Lone Leapard seals are often found on bergs hoping to to find a meal, especially penguin, or rest. A leopard seal was found on an iceberg and another was playing with his food, a penguin, in Pleneau Bay. The mouth of a leopard seal is large, prehistoric looking and its teeth are huge and serrated. If I was a penguin or a small seal, I would live in terror of leopard seals. For lunch we dined with glaciers on the bow of the ship. We took part in a barbecue. After lunch the zodiacs ferried us to Port Circumcision, a cove off a 1.6 km long island called Petermann Island 65'10'S latitude. Adelie Penguins were spotted here. These penguins were also molting before heading out to sea. These penguins are black and white, colours most people expect penguins to be. It was interesting to observe them. Gentoo Penguins are also on this island, this is as far south as these species of penguins go. The Gentoo were very entertaining. There was a shallow wading pool from melting glaciers that the young and adult penguins could swim in. It was fun to watch their clumsy movement on ice.

The Ultimate Day

Mar 05, 2009
Neko Harbour
Neko Harbour (Jayne Hope)
Another exceptional day. Saw a Snow Petrel while zodiac cruising Paradise Bay. The glaciers in Paradise Bay are the size of mountains as the zodiac gets as close to them without being in danger. The other zodiacs look miniscule compared to the glaciers. The water is so clear that the mirror image is breath taking and picturesque. There is ice everywhere, Antarctica embodies 90% of the world's ice. When the zodiac motor was stopped the sound was SILENT. Total silence is hard to find in civilization. We were apart of something that is difficult to explain. Base Brown, another zodiac landing on the continent, is 1513 nautical miles north of the South Pole and 9288 nautical miles south of the north pole. Gentoo Penguins nest here. Once again we were entertained by the antics of these amazing "birds". I like how the Gentoo steal rocks from each others nests to build their own nests. At this point of our adventure all passengers on board had been offered the chance to take a polar plunge. I took the challenge and "yes", I did it! I dived into the cold Southern ocean among the swimming penguins. Another zodiac landing was made at Port Lockroy on Jougla Point, western end of Wiencke Island. A British Museum, research station and post office are stationed here. The Gentoo on this landing were a lot younger. We saw chicks that were only a few days old and would most likely not survive the coming winter and frozen waters. They would become feed for the Brown and Antarctic Skuas. The parents are very vigilent and devoted to the fledglings. It is quite heartening to see. To end the long day, some of the passengers, went camping on the cold ice of Antarctica. I was one of these brave souls. We took a zodiac about 45 minutes away from the ship, at 8:30 at night to Dorian Bay on the northwest end of Wiencke Island. We did not return until 5:45 the next morning. We had to pitch our own tents. The penguins made their penguin noises all night and Antarctic "thunder" raged on and off. It was comfortable but then the temperature of the ice soaked into our mats, sleeping bags and clothing. What an adventure!

Another FANTASTIC day!

Mar 06, 2009
Feeding time
Feeding time (Jayne Hope)
A beautiful sunny day sailing through Neumeyer Channel. A zodiac landing at Danco Island. Passed by gleaming icebergs and an explosion of reality to magnify the senses. The blue of the water and sky were intensified and blended into each other. The white of the ice and glaciers gleamed. The mountains flaunted their grandeur. A Crabeater seal was spotted on an iceberg. Danco Island was alive with the comical presentation of more Gentoo penguins. Once again they were thrilling to observe. It is necessry to capture the essence of our adventure to plant in our memory because this is our final zodiac landing! The radiance of the day makes it difficult to leave yet effortless to remember. Much to everyone's joy, including the crew and expedition team, Humpback whales were sighted in Gerlache Strait, near Cuverville Island. One more zodiac cruise following humpies! What a way to end a day!

Drake (shake) Passage

Mar 07, 2009
Feeding time
Feeding time (Jayne Hope)
The return voyage to Ushuaia through the Drake Passage saw more passengers seeking medicinal aid from the ship's doctor. The ship pitched and swayed more. The waves passed over the decks. It was difficult toremain standing straight. The dining room was risky place to have an accident. But all survived.

Calmer waters

Mar 08, 2009
Feeding time
Feeding time (Jayne Hope)
This was our final full day on board. I joined in the night's festivities by over induldging. I consumed several cocktails, glasses of champagne and beer. So much that to this day I am not aware of my actions. I know that later the next day I developed bruises on my legs, arms and body that took many days to fade. I did enjoy the party.

Back to the hostel

Mar 09, 2009
Taking a break from swimming
Taking a break from swimming (Jayne Hope)
We disembarked the ship at 9:30am. I was barely awake. We took a taxi up to the hostel; I could only crawl up hill to the hostel. When we finally got our room, I dived into bed and slept most of the day.

Day off

Mar 10, 2009
Adelie Penguins
Adelie Penguins (Jayne Hope)
We spent the day mailing items back home to lighten our load. Visited the home one of the crew from Akademik Shokalsky, Alejandro.

Mare Australis

Mar 11, 2009
feather duster
feather duster (Jayne Hope)
Today we said adious to Ushuaia. We boarded a totally different ship, the Mare Australis, which is Chilean. It was more luxurious than the Akademik Shokalsky. We had a huge bed and a large adjoining bathroom, room 109. The dining room was huge and people were seated around circular tables, eight people to a table. Around our table were seated four Americans, an Irish couple and us. We depared Ushuaia Bay late in the aftrnoon. From Ushuaia, which is in Argentina, we crossed into Chilean waters; therefore, this ship sailed closer to Puerto Williams. We sailed west following the Canal de Beagle passed Puerto Navarino to Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn).

Cape Horn Walaia Bay

Mar 12, 2009
Penguin on the rocks
Penguin on the rocks (Jayne Hope)
The Mare Australis also had zodiac landings.The zodiacs seated more people and the process more formal. The zodiac landing on the north end of Cape Horn was very precarious because it was very windy that day. We disembarked just after sunrise, the sunrise that morning was impressive. During the transfer from ship to island, we took some seawater into our zodiac. Because there were more passengers and no co-habitation ther was less comraderie among passengers.

Strait of Magellan

Mar 14, 2009
flipper motion
flipper motion (Jayne Hope)
Before embarking on our four month adventure I did a lot of research on explorers, conquistadors, indigenous and natural history in South America and Antarctica. Here we were following routes taken by the crew of the Beagle, Charles Darwin and Captain Fitzroy, and Ferdinand Magellan. We had sailed where Sir Francis Drake, James Cook, Dutch explorers who were the first known Europeans to sail around Cape Horn.

Montanita, Ecuador

May 12, 2009
Petermann Island
Petermann Island (Jayne Hope)
x

Toronto

Jun 08, 2009
Penguins everywhere
Penguins everywhere (Jayne Hope)
x

Patagonia Travel Guide

Favorite Patagonia Patagonia All Trips

Top Patagonia Travel Destinations

Patagonia Trips by Departure Date

Top Experiences in Patagonia

Patagonia Trips by Duration

Patagonia Trips by Activity

More Reasons

Why Travel With Adventure Life

All News

Recognized By

Talk with an expert
Build your ideal Patagonia trip. Call 1.406.541.2677