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My Journey to Antarctica

Antarctica, you wow me.
Antarctica, you wow me.
Molly and I were able to visit many places on our trip. We explored Buenos Aires, visiting our friends and local office, experienced a Tango Show, made our way to Uruguay for a day, and had lots of empanadas. We spent a few days in beautiful Ushuaia, the gateway to Antarctica. This small town still has a lot to offer for a traveler on their journey to the southern continent. Next, we boarded the Akademik Ioffe for a trip of a lifetime to Antarctica. I have many tips and stories in this blog to help you prepare for your upcoming trip!
All Photos

Photo Album

Travel Woes

Jun 19, 2018
Photo by Franny Friesz

Flight delays are a reality of travel. I know this. I’ve worked in the travel industry for over three years. Even knowing this still doesn’t prepare you 100% for when it happens. I was a hot mess before this trip. Adventure Life is growing at an amazing pace, but it made for an epic busy season. I had no time to prepare mentally, physically, or even emotionally for this trip. I even said to my husband at one point, I don’t want to go. People. I said to my husband that I didn’t want to go to ANTARCTICA. I just did not feel ready. However, I mustered up the excitement my sweet friend, Molly and I had been building for over a year and set out. That poor girl, she could tell how little I had prepared or was in the mind set for travel. I set out in front at the Denver airport and walked her to the complete opposite end of the terminal. I had blisters on my feet because I wore the worst socks. I was again, a hot mess. Now, when our flight was delayed, and it looked like we’d miss our flight to Buenos Aires, that didn’t help things. The lady at the front desk was most unhelpful and said that most flights had already been changed. We looked on our account and sure enough, our flights had been re-routed to Miami two days later and we would have missed most of our time in Buenos Aires. Molly and I were understandably disappointed but really didn’t want to start our trip on the wrong foot. 
Colorful La Boca in Buenos Aires
Colorful La Boca (Franny Friesz)

I guess I had already done that by dragging her to the wrong part of the airport. We both put our heads together and tried to come up with positives. Houston…what could we do for a few days in Houston. I called my husband to let him know. He suggested going to the beach…OK. The beach…I hear the food in Texas is great. Too bad we are too far away to visit Chip and Joanna Gaines. It’s hard to keep positive in situations like that. I honestly started praying. I was praying that it would all work out and praying for a good attitude if it didn’t. Ultimately, I knew Molly and I would have a great time together no matter where we were.  We boarded the plane to Houston, not knowing what would happen. As soon as we were in the air, the pilot makes an announcement.  “Looks like about 30 people are trying to connect to Belize and we’ve asked the plane to wait for them”. Dang it. Lucky people headed to Belize. “No, I’m sorry, I meant Buenos Aires”. Applause and loud cheering (mostly coming from my mouth) erupts in the cabin.  I may have shed a tear. We were on our way to Buenos Aires, Big Apple. Folks, flight delays are a reality. You might miss part of your trip or all of it. However, life always works out and you can make the most of it if you try! Also, buy travel insurance. That helps.
 

Money Tips

Jun 19, 2018
Best meal we had on the trip was some King Crab in Ushuaia. Sorry, empanadas, this has you beat.
Best meal we had on the trip was some King Crab in Ushuaia. Sorry, empanadas, this has you beat. (Franny Friesz)

While in Argentina, I learned a sound lesson that I will take with me on every trip from now on. That lesson was, have local currency on you or at least have a debit card you know will work. As an operations coordinator, I plan until I’m blue in the face. My plan was to get currency from the Travelex counter (I’ll pay the extra exchange fees for convenience of having the money!) in Houston during our layover. What I didn’t plan on was our flight being delayed to the point we’d have 9 minutes to connect to our flight.  Thankfully, the flight waited for us as there were 30 others on the flight trying to get to Buenos Aires. I had assumed I would have time to get the cash I needed, but that left me high and dry. I had also decided to leave my debit card at home, which meant I was left only with my credit card to get me by and some US cash. 

Eva Peron's grave on our Buenos Aires tour
Eva Peron's grave (Franny Friesz)


Luckily, my lovely and intelligent travel partner had the smarts to bring along her debit card, which I had to use along the way.  We found out quickly that each ATM has a daily limit and it’s not much.  Her card didn’t work the first few days and her husband had to call their bank multiple times in order for it to accept the charge. Poor Molly, poor planning on my part. Another issue we ran into is that you could only get ARS from exchange booths if you had large bills in USD. Of course, yet again, I failed to bring something I needed – enough cash. All in all…lesson learned.
 

Colonia, a Day Out of the City

Jun 19, 2018
I have to say, this day tour surprised me the most – in a good way. I planned this tour as no one in our office had experienced it and I thought it’d be fun to visit another country along the way. We began by heading through customs; one for Uruguay and one for Argentina. With the stamp to Uruguay in our passports we waited in line for the massive ferry to take us to Colonia. I wish I had brought a book and a jacket on the ferry, but Molly and I found ways to pass the time. After about 10 minutes on the hour ferry ride, a huge shopping center in the middle of the ferry opened up. We perused the aisles of perfume, chocolate, and many random items for sale. Another time I wish I had cash on me as the coffee and food accepted only cash.

Cobblestone streets of Colonia, Uruguay
Cobblestone streets of Colonia. (Franny Friesz)

When we reached Colonia, we set out to do another round of passport stamps and lines to get into Uruguay. We met our guide and set out on our adventure in Colonia. This little city had juxtaposed elements of Spanish and Portuguese that were fascinating. You could see the two influences literally clashing in the streets and in the buildings. The Spanish and Portuguese fought over this little town for years and you could see why. It was in a perfect position politically and in quite a beautiful setting. I wish we had more time to stay in Colonia and would have enjoyed a night there, even. It was much more these two Montana girls’ pace and had as much history as a European town.  After learning a lot from our guide, wandering the neighborhoods of Colonia, and a visit to the beach, Molly and I had time to explore on our own. The streets were easy to navigate and we found lots of shops, a market, and a restaurant to enjoy. We had a set time to meet our guide after our lunch and time to explore and he took us back to the ferry. We said our goodbyes to Uruguay and headed back to the big city to finish our stay.
 

Buenos Aires, Big Apple

Jun 19, 2018
Can a cemetery be beautiful? Yes, yes it can. Buenos Aires City Tour
Can a cemetery be beautiful? Yes, yes it can. Buenos Aires City Tour (Franny Friesz)

If you are a huge nerd like me, you watch movies or read books about the destination before you travel. For me, I watched Evita. I had seen this when I was a little girl and didn’t really understand it. Now that I was going to Buenos Aires, I knew I had to watch it again. So, while wandering the streets, I had songs stuck in my head and wondered if I could convince the Argentine people to love me enough to change my name from Franny to Franita. Eva Peron did it.  Our guide, Jose Galotti, laughed for a while at me when I told him my idea of Franita. I won, as he called me Franita from then on. We absolutely loved our guide, Jose. He was not only knowledgeable, he was passionate about this city he clearly loved, and wanted to share that passion with every traveler. He made us giggle always, while giving us an educational and enjoyable experience wherever we went.

Oldsmobile in La Boca in Buenos Aires
Oldsmobile in La Boca (Franny Friesz)


Kallpa is the name of the company we work with in Buenos Aires and I couldn’t be more honored to work with a group of talented people. They are so good at what they do and they make these dream trips happen for our travelers. They made this dream trip happen for me and for Molly. They welcomed us into their beautiful city, country, and I love them for it. Buenos Aires was only a few days of our journey, but I am so glad we had the opportunity to experience it.
 

End of the World

Jun 19, 2018
Molly, enjoying the cute penguins on Martillo Island.
Molly, enjoying the cute penguins on Martillo Island. (Franny Friesz)

Ushuaia was one of the most gorgeous places I’ve ever seen. It reminded me of Homer, Alaska. Beautiful and jagged mountains touch the ocean and you have the best of both worlds. We found it incredibly easy to get around Ushuaia.  The taxis were dirt cheap and easy to flag down.  As soon as we arrived to our sweet little room at Tierra de Leyendas, we set out on a horseback ride. Cento de Hipico was a fantastic company. I can’t say enough about them. They had healthy, happy horses, and our guide was super sweet. His English wasn’t incredible, but he knew how to communicate enough for us to have the best time. We told him we were both Montana girls and experienced riders. He decided to take us on a true adventure since we knew what we were doing. I felt like an old friend took us for a ride in his backyard to his favorite spot. We were honored and blown away.

Picking out the King crab we were going to have for dinner in Ushuaia!
Picking out the King crab we were going to have for dinner in Ushuaia! (Franny Friesz)

True to a Patagonian experience, we rode into sunshine, rain, I think snow, tremendous wind, and even saw a rainbow. This was by far one of the best highlights of our entire trip.  Now, our favorite meal of the whole trip was also in Ushuaia. El Viejo Marino was home to a massive King Crab that ended up in our bellies. We picked, held, and devoured this huge sea creature. Not only was it tasty, it was an experience cracking open the hard shell to eat the sweet flesh inside. Delicious. All in all, Molly and I loved Ushuaia. I think it’s often overlooked simply as a hub to Antarctica. Boy, does it prepare you for an amazing trip by setting you off on the right foot!
 

Whales, Seals, Penguins, Oh My!

Jun 19, 2018
Rare humpback whale sighting on the Beagle Channel
Rare humpback siting on the Beagle Channel (Franny Friesz)


Now, you might think I’m getting to the good part – Antarctica. Nope! Molly and I set out on a boat ride even before the Akademik Ioffe. This tour was of Estancia Haberton and Martillo Island. We were able to experience the Beagle Channel at a much more intimate level than when we set out on our expedition to Antarctica. PiraTours was the operator and did a fabulous job with the 20-30 people onboard. We slowly cruised the channel while being able to enjoy fur seals and learning about how their population is slowly recovering after years of being hunted. We circled a cute little lighthouse that amazed me – still standing after all of that wind, weather, and wear. We were even lucky enough to see two humpback whales waving their flukes at us, which is a very rare sighting. When we arrived to the Estancia, we split up in two groups. One enjoyed the beautiful ranch, and the other set out to visit the penguins on Martillo Island. (Fun fact interjection, Argentinians say “Mar-tisho” instead of the typical “Mar-ti-yo” you would hear. They pronounce “ll” different than any other Spanish speaking country!) Now, these penguins were fun to see. Many of them were Magellen, but there were also a handful of Gentoo penguins as well. Our luck continued as we spotted not one but two KING penguins.
Kissing Sea Lions on the Beagle Channel
Kissing Sea Lions on the Beagle Channel (Franny Friesz)


Molly and I had zero chance seeing any of these beauties in Antarctica, so we felt really honored to see these gorgeous guys. We headed back to the Estancia and enjoyed a delicious lunch. We had to get in some more empanadas and wine for our last day in Argentina while enjoying the view on such a beautiful day from the restaurant on the hill. The prices weren’t too bad, but again, bring cash. We had another visit while at the ranch to explore a museum full of whale, seal, and dolphin bones. This was one of the most interesting museums I’d visited in a long time. They took us in the back where they cleaned new found bones and did their science-y things. From there, we hopped on a bus and began the journey back to Ushuaia. I can’t tell you much about the ride home as both Molly and I were pooped from our adventures and took a nap.
Boarding the zodiac to take us to Martillo Island
Boarding the zodiac to take us to Martillo Island (Franny Friesz)

 

The Drake

Jun 19, 2018
Amazing capture of my orca friends on the Drake by Jason!
Amazing capture of my orca friends on the Drake by Jason! (Jason Ransom)

Okay, yes. Now we are getting to the exciting part! The dreaded Drake. Your biggest question to me would probably be, “did you get the Drake Shake or the Drake Lake?”. I would argue we had mostly the Drake Lake, with a bit of shake. Luckily Molly and I survived with our motion sickness patches. Neither of us felt the seasickness, but many of our fellow travelers did, especially on the way down. The waves weren’t large but they were odd directions. The stabilizers on the Akademik Ioffe were fabulous, but when the waves are coming in all directions, there’s only so much those stabilizers can do. I have to say, half the battle is even fighting through the medication. Molly and I napped most of the way on the Drake. That stuff makes you sleepy and very, very dehydrated. I felt bad for our fellow shipmates who were seasick, but none of us really knew each other at that point. There were a few presentations to keep us busy, meals (for the ones who felt good enough to show up) and the brave souls who journeyed out on deck when it was safe to do so. The highlight of the way down was seeing the creature I wanted to see most – orcas. Now, me being from the northwest-ish part of the US, you may be surprised I had never seen an orca. Well, I haven’t! Not until the Drake Passage. And did you know there are different types of orcas?  There are 10 types! Some in the northern hemisphere and some in the southern hemisphere.

Ari Freidlaender made a stop on our ship to share his new research during a fireside chat - so cool!
Ari Freidlaender made a stop on our ship to share his new research during a fireside chat - so cool! (Franny Friesz)


Day 2 of the Drake was so flat, you could see blows from whales all across the horizon. It was incredible. When they announced that there were orcas at the bow, I ran faster than I ever knew I could. I may have slammed a door in Molly’s face, I was so excited. I didn’t have my camera with me, just my phone, and in my excitement took many pictures of the sky. Luckily, our photographer on board was much more prepared and had a fantastic shot of these beauties. Some travelers argue that it’s best to skip the drake and do a fly-cruise. I would try to convince every person not to skip the journey of the Drake. It is a right of passage as you earn your way to Antarctica, that’s the most argued point. But, what I really appreciated were the two days on the way home to say goodbye to the friends I’d made onboard. You share an incredible experience with about 90 other humans and that’s a big deal. The last day in Antarctica was super sad. But what made it bearable was knowing that I had two more days to enjoy with all of the people I grew to love on my journey. Do the Drake. It’s worth it!

The best part about traveling always, are the people you meet. We loved this couple from Australia on our Antarctica cruise!
The best part about traveling always, are the people you meet. We loved this couple from Australia on our Antarctica cruise! (Franny Friesz)

 

A Day in the Life of a Sailor

Jun 19, 2018
Whiskey tastes even better on Antarctic ice.
Whiskey tastes even better on Antarctic ice. (Franny Friesz)

I’m not a sailor, but I would like to be! I enjoyed being on that ship, smelling the ocean, wind kissed cheeks, listening to the water lap against the ship when we were anchored, and I even loved it on days when we saw nothing but water.  The day began with our expedition leader’s calm and soothing voice waking us up. She would always begin with “Good morning…good morning, everyone”. She would tell us the weather, describe the views outside the ship, and what we were to expect for the day. Either were having presentations or going to two landings that day. She would encourage us to layer up, head to breakfast, enjoy smoothies with Dave and get ready for an awesome day. Being part of the kayaking group, we’d meet in the library every morning before breakfast to go over the days’ paddle options. Then, we’d head to the gear room in time to get suited up for the morning excursion. Depending on the location and where we were headed for the afternoon, we would be out 2-4 hours. It was never enough time. Goodness, I wanted more and more each day. The thing about Antarctica, you can’t quite soak it in and you can never get enough of it.

Photos cannot do this place justice. More peaks on the Lemaire Channel.
Photos cannot do this place justice. More peaks on the Lemaire Channel. (Franny Friesz)

The beauty and splendor of this place is so hard to describe, impossible to capture in a photo, and life-changing. After our morning adventure, we would reluctantly return to the ship and begin our journey to the second destination. During this time, we would grab lunch, take a nap, or just have a break to hang out with fellow travelers. For the afternoon excursion, we head to the gear room and dress up all over again.  We enjoy another section of the beautiful landscape, hang out with penguins, whales, seals, and soak it in. The evening, the dining room is buzzing with stories that each person experienced as they kayaked, were in zodiacs, or went ashore. We would all head to the bar for some entertainment from the crew, have some drinks, climb up the stairs to bed and repeat all over again.
Friends in high places - Antarctica Buddies
Friends in high places - Antarctica Buddies (Franny Friesz)

 

Kayaking with Humpbacks

Jun 19, 2018
Kayaking on silky Antarctica waters - nothing like it.
Kayaking on silky Antarctica waters - nothing like it. (Franny Friesz)

Now, I have travelers who opt out of kayaking all of the time because they are worried about it being too difficult. Having been through the kayaking program, I will be talking 85% of these people back into it. Kayaking in Antarctica was the best decision I made on this trip. I was really nervous about it being too difficult as well. They ask if you’ve ever sea kayaked or done a wet exit. I had done neither of those things. The most hard-core kayaking I’d ever done was white water kayaking once…years ago. That was 50% harder than this and kayaking in this destination was absolutely incredible. You are up close and personal with every aspect of Antarctica, the silky water, ice sculptures, porpoising penguins, playful fur seals, and curious whales.  If you’re on the fence and think you’d probably like kayaking, I know you will love it.  I took advantage of every opportunity we had to paddle.  My favorite day was our time in Paradise Harbor.  It was an overcast day so the landscape was especially contrasted. You could see the blues of the glaciers cascading into the see even more clearly. The dark, cold seawater was smooth as glass, only rippled by the many whales playing and feeding in the harbor.  The kayakers sat in awe of the whales surfacing only feet in front of us. We spotted a calf who was extra playful and would spin around in the water showing off its fluke. There was always a small fear of these massive creatures surfacing right underneath me, tossing me into the icy waters – basically dying. 

Fluke yeah - one of amazing experiences while kayaking in Antarctica.
Fluke yeah - one of amazing experiences while kayaking in Antarctica. (Franny Friesz)


But it only took a few times interacting with the humpback whales to know that they were intelligent, mindful animals.  I never got sick of seeing them, sitting in my kayak with baited breath waiting for another to surface. Each outing, I wanted to buzz over to where they were and just sit in awe, and in complete denial of where I was. One thing to note is that you do sacrifice time onshore or on the zodiacs when kayaking. Even though we had some intimate moments with the humpbacks, our fellow shipmates would manage to see many more than we did as they zipped back and forth to where they saw whales. Some days, they had a hike to a penguin colony, or a combination of a zodiac ride and time on the continent.  We had to make that choice to either paddle or the other options for the day.  Although, no matter which outing choose, you could be missing out on an experience. One zodiac witnessed a leopard seal hunting and killing a penguin! You just never know what you’re in for.  Ultimately, if you want my advice, keep that kayaking spot. You won’t regret it!
Antarctica, you wow me.
Antarctica, you wow me. (Franny Friesz)

Dressing for Success

Jun 19, 2018
Hula hooping in Antarctica - "hoo" knew!?
Hula hooping in Antarctica - "hoo" knew!? (Franny Friesz)
If there’s one thing that could spoil your entire trip in Antarctica, it’s not being prepared in the clothing department. Now, I’m a notorious over-packer, but I feel like I did a fairly good job bringing what I needed. I better have, right? I help people travel to Antarctica all of the time. One thing I wish I had more of were wool hats. I had one that I used often, but we had some days that were snowy and wet. It’s always good to have 2-3 pairs of everything so you have a dry option.  I ended up purchasing a wool hat onboard, which worked out well for a souvenir.  The best items of clothing I brought ended up being my wool buffs. Even when the buffs were wet, they kept my neck and face so warm.  I think I finally nailed down the perfect layers on the last day, but it is a fine art! Starting at the feet, I typically wore 2-3 layers of socks.

Playful humpback whale in Paradise Bay
Playful humpback whale in Paradise Bay (Franny Friesz)

I have meaty legs, so I wore one layer of leggings, then I typically had a base layer of wool, my down vest, and a fleece. The ship company provided our outer layers when going onshore or kayaking. Another item of clothing that surprised me was the neoprene gloves on our kayaking paddles. I could put my bare hands in those gloves and they would keep warm. Even so, I brought one or two pairs of gloves with me to keep my hands from freezing on the zodiac ride to the ship.  Another item I was glad to have was my dry sac. With this, I was able to bring an extra hat, gloves, and my camera while kayaking.  Make sure any clothes you wear as your layers are not cotton. Save those for evenings or mornings before you head out on the excursions.
Kayaking on top of whales...not really, but so close!
Kayaking on top of whales...not really, but so close! (Franny Friesz)

Dream Team

Jun 19, 2018
Our expedition team was amazing. It seemed as though there was a staff member everywhere we looked and there was always someone to help if you needed anything or answer a question. My favorite person on the team was Brian, an ornithologist and enthusiast of anything that was alive. He succeeded in getting the entire ship so stinking excited about albatross. At one point, we had a pod of orcas in the front of the ship and he was more excited about the albatross surrounding the boat. This man actually succeeded in getting me to turn my head from the orcas to look at the birds.  Many staff had similar enthusiasm about their specialties. Some knew more about whales, seals, penguins, or had been to Antarctica countless times. These individuals were at the end of their season and still managed to make our time in Antarctica seem like it was their first expedition. Molly and I made good friends with the photographer onboard. He was experienced in the Arctic, but this was his first trip to Antarctica.

These Antarctica guides with One Ocean were amazing. Expertly navigating us through Spert Island to see incredible creatures.
These guides with One Ocean were amazing. Expertly navigating us through Spert Island to see incredible creatures. (Franny Friesz)


He did a great job putting together our slideshow at the end of the journey and I loved that he was as awed of Antarctica as we were, it being his first time. Our expedition guide impressed me the most.  She was a young woman (maybe younger than me!) but she had so much confidence and cool that you would have never known it was her first expedition.  One of the things I miss most about being on the ship is her voice waking me up each day. She had the most calming announcements and was incredibly poetic describing the world outside our ship every morning. The Russian crewmembers were my favorite. From the chefs and waiters, ladies who made our bed twice a day (sometimes three) to the men captaining our ship, these guys really made everything run smoothly. I really can’t say enough about the whole group of people who made our Antarctica experience that much better.
Our wonderful photographer, Jason!
Our wonderful photographer, Jason! (Franny Friesz)

Truly an Expedition

Jun 19, 2018
One lone penguin that didn't get much attention while we were kayaking. We were all about the whales!
One lone penguin that didn't get much attention while we were kayaking. We were all about the whales! (Franny Friesz)

When I learned that scientists were going to be onboard, I honestly thought it might make the trip slightly boring. I couldn’t have been more wrong. What I didn’t expect was actually feeling some pride that I was a small part of the data our ship brought back to that science-y world. We had a rare opportunity to be onboard with scientists who had permission to bring a drone to study whales. They measured the body mass of humpback whale mothers to gauge how much weight they lost while feeding their calves. We were all asked to turn in photos of flukes as they are like a whale’s thumbprint. With a photo one of us captured, they would be able to match it with another across the Drake. They also participated in tagging the whales to gather more information about their habits. Another aspect that surprised me was the fact that we were able to interact, drink, and have adventures with these individuals. We became as close as anyone onboard. We had a few other fun people come onboard while in Antarctica. At one point, Ari Friedlaender came onboard.

Antarctica - just stunning.
Antarctica - just stunning. (Franny Friesz)


Ari is a research scientist taking huge strides in the marine research world. Of course I didn’t appreciate who he was at the time, but now knowing who he is, that was really cool. We took aboard the ladies who had spent the summer season at Port Lockroy. Most ships visit the port and get to peruse the area and buy souvenirs. We were able to sit down and hear the fun stories these brave women experienced. One misty morning, a small sailboat pulled up to our portside. We added another three to our crew onboard. This time, I had a full nerd moment when I found out that two men from the BBC joined us for the journey home. These guys gave a presentation on the episodes they filmed for Planet Earth. I may or may not have walked up to them like a giddy fan girl to ask them each for an autograph. No regrets. Needless to say, this was not your ordinary cruise with ordinary people. We were a part of the bigger picture and I was just along for the ride!
Nothing beats that Antarctica view
Nothing beats that Antarctica view (Franny Friesz)

Inexplicable Antarctica

Jun 19, 2018
Fluke yeah - one of amazing experiences while kayaking in Antarctica.
Fluke yeah - one of amazing experiences while kayaking in Antarctica. (Franny Friesz)

"If Antarctica were music it would be Mozart. Art, and it would be Michelangelo. Literature, and it would be Shakespeare. And yet it is something even greater; the only place on earth that is still as it should be. May we never tame it.” ~Andrew Denton
 
Parts of Antarctica were unlike any other and volcanic. It was incredible to see!
Parts of Antarctica were unlike any other and volcanic. It was incredible to see! (Franny Friesz)



There are many words to describe Antarctica, but still, none of them can ever truly do it justice. To understand what I experienced, you have to go. I encourage you to travel to the very end of the world and know what it means to visit a destination that makes others either cringe or question your judgment.  I promise you’ll thank me.
Towers in the Lemaire Channel
Towers in the Lemaire Channel (Franny Friesz)

 

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