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Awesome Antarctica

Blown away by the stunning colors of the ice at Pleneau Island
Blown away by the stunning colors of the ice at Pleneau Island
My brother and I had a journey to the land of ice that changed my perspective of the amazing continent! Our experience aboard the Sea Spirit was nothing short of special. We saw icebergs and glaciers while kayaking the seas of this beautiful place. Also, we saw a lot of wildlife such as whales, fur seals and most importantly.. PENGUINS!
All Photos

Photo Album

24 Hours in Buenos Aires - Remember to look up!

Jun 27, 2014
I left Missoula at 7 PM on Wednesday and arrived in Buenos Aires at 5 AM on Friday.  The two days of travel were exhausting, and I slept about an hour total on all of my flights, so our first priority was to catch a little shut eye.

We were lucky enough to be able to check in to our room early and immediately crashed.  We woke up around 11, and while we still had no desire to move, we didn't want to waste the day.  We showered, dressed for the beautifully warm weather, and set out from our hotel to explore.

Our first stop was a visit to our local office - Kallpa.  They operate all of our tours for us in Argentina, so it was nice to finally meet the folks I have been working with for the past few years!  From there, we headed to the main shopping street - Florida.  Here we stopped in the Galerias mall and did some people watching on the main drag in town.  Rather than finding a nice restaurant for lunch, we wanted to get off the main tourist street and get some local food.  We saw an empanada shop that offered 3 empanadas and a coke for what came out to about $3 US.  It was full of locals, which is always a good sign.
Delicious empanadas for lunch (and cheap too!)
Delicious empanadas for lunch (and cheap too!) (Erin Correia)

In our best Spanish, we ordered 6 different ones and they were served to us on a round wooden board.  I really meant to take a picture of them, but we were so hungry and so tired, we had already finished devouring them before I remembered my camera!

After lunch, we went back to the hotel, sent out a quick email letting our families know we were alive, and then set out on our afternoon city tour. 

My last name is actually a Portuguese name (my husband's family is from Portugal a few generations back) and everyone we met commented on it.  They would be very excited that I was Portuguese, and then I would tell them it is my husband's name.  They immediately would look at Ben and start speaking to him in Portuguese, to which I would have to respond "No, es mi hermano" (No, he is my brother).  Then they would apologize profusely or laugh about the mix-up.  "No, es mi hermano" quickly became a theme on our trip!

The city tour was a whirlwind that showed you the top highlights of the city - and you had about 30 seconds to enjoy each of them.  It would be a perfect way to get aquianted with the city if you were going to have more time to explore (or in our case, to give you a glimpse of what you are missing out on!). 

We saw the main areas and stopped for a while in the main government square (where we saw the cathedral the new pope is from)
Inside the Buenos Aires cathedral
Inside the Buenos Aires cathedral (Erin Correia)

and in Las Bocas which was very touristy and colorful. 
The colorful "La Boca" district of Buenos Aires
The colorful (Erin Correia)

In Bocas, we were dragging a bit, so we ordered a frapuccino.  It was made with ice cream and looked so good...until we realized they were serving it in actual glasses and we only had about 1.5 minutes to drink it before we had to be back on the bus.

On our way back to our hotel, the guide started talking about the Galerias Mall, and that it was famous because of the amazing paintings that covered the cathedral-style ceilings.  Ben and I both started cracking up...we realized we never even looked up while we were there!

Back to our hotel, we had just enough time to get super dressed up and meet our driver for our Dinner and Tango Show.  When we arrived, they had us pose with sexy dancers, then they wanted us to pose sexily with each other - "No, es mi hermano" (cue crazy giggles from the staff)

The free-flowing wine at the show did not help my sleep-deprived state, and Ben (who had plenty to drink), kept kicking me under the table to wake me up throughout the show. 

Finally, a bit after midnight, we were returned to our hotel.  We quickly packed our things and passed out...only to head back to the airport at 5 AM.

We had just long enough in the city to make me realize 24 hours is not nearly enough time to enjoy Buenos Aires!

An Accidental Private Tour - Cervesaria Cape Horn

Jun 27, 2014
My family enjoys drinking.  This is sort of an Irish fact, but we Briertys (my maiden name) take it very seriously.

My dad and I used to bring home strange liquers from our travels to drink together, and lately, every family gathering involves sampling craft beers from some strange new place.  A Brierty family gathering is not complete without a good serving of alcohol!

Ben and I both live in towns with great breweries, and we often frequent them with our spouses.  When we heard we would be staying in the home town of the southern-most brewery in the world, a visit there was not optional.

Still super sleep-deprived, we arrived in Ushuaia around 2 PM on Saturday.  After dropping our bags in our beautiful room and enjoying the complimentary champagne (how romantic),
Our beautiful room at Las Cauquenes in Ushuaia
Our beautiful room at Las Cauquenes in Ushuaia (Erin Correia)

we went straight to the concierge desk to see if we could get a taxi to Cerveceria Cape Horn.  The concierge seemed amused "You like beer?".  This clearly was not a typical request!

He made some phone calls, and it turns out, the place we had heard about where you could go enjoy beer had closed down about 5-6 years ago.  Now, there is just the brewery where they brew the beer, but not a place to socialize or drink.  The concierge called the owner at home - turns out he is not the owner anymore, but he gave him the number for the new owner. 

The next phone call happened in Spanish and was too quick for my basic knowledge, but it sounded promising.  He hung up the phone and said "I talked to the owner.  The brewery is closed today, but he is on his way there for you and a taxi will be here in two minutes to get you!"  We felt terrible - we thought we were going to some brew-pub, not to a closed factory that would require an owner to come in on a weekend.  We felt rude and inconsiderate, and also had no idea what this would end up costing! 

The taxi picked us up and drove us almost 40 minutes outside of town.  This is when we realized we had no phones and could not get back to the hotel without help, since walking back would not be possible this late in the day.  The taxi dropped us off in front of an abandoned-looking home, and as I tried to get his phone number, he drove away and left us.  Crap.  This didn't look right.  It was a little house in the middle of nowhere...and no one answered when we knocked.

The panicked laughter set it.  What have we gotten ourselves into?  How long do we wait before we start trying to walk back?  This is all bad...

We waited another five minutes and then realized we were in trouble.  We started to walk to the road and a taxi happened to pass and stop.  We were about to get in, when a man came walking around the house and introduced himself as the owner!  Phew!  We got the taxi driver's number (not that it really helps without a phone) and followed Ricardo, the owner, around the backside of the house.

Here, there was a small warehouse. He seemed unsure of what to do with us, so he took us inside. 
Cape Horn Brewery- in the store room
Cape Horn Brewery- in the store room (Erin Correia)

The whole thing was tiny and the interaction started off very awkward.  But then he started to show us around.  We saw the little store room for the hops and barley. We saw the tiny office.  Then, he took us to the fermenting room and things started to get interesting.  The more we talked, the more Ricardo opened up, and his pride in his beer really started to show.  He grabbed some dirty jars off of a sink and poured us glasses of beer right out of the fermenters!  It was SO good! 
Cape Horn Brewery- Tasting Time!
Cape Horn Brewery- Tasting Time! (Erin Correia)

After tasting those, he took us over to the little label machine and starting opening beers from the storeroom.  We stood there and drank and laughed and talked for almost an hour!  During that time, Ricardo opened one of every kind of beer (even a green one for St. Patty's Day) and we tried them all.
Cape Horn Brewery- This is the owner of the Brewery. Such a passionate brewer!
Cape Horn Brewery- This is the owner of the Brewery. Such a passionate brewer! (Erin Correia)

Then, he disappeared into his office and came out with staff shirts for us!!  Finally, he finished by loading us up with bottles to take home to our dad!

He called the taxi driver for us, and took us out to meet his dog while we waited for him to arrive.  Ben and I quickly tallied in our heads the great amount that this all would have cost in the states, as well as having the actual owner come out on a weekend to open the place up for us, and we tried to give him a tip that would cover all of it.  He refused, even after several attempts "I do not take money from friends!".  When the taxi driver arrived, he loaded us in with all of our swag and wished us well on our journey.
Cape Horn Brewery- Me and the owner.
Cape Horn Brewery- Me and the owner. (Erin Correia)

And that is how Ben and I scored a free private tour with the ownder of the southernmost brewery in the world!
 

More drinking at the end of the world

Jun 27, 2014
Have we noticed a theme yet?

After making the most of our first day in Ushuaia by touring the brewery, we crammed a tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park into the morning of our embarkation day - we were not wasting a moment!

We were picked up at our hotel to join a group of about 15 people for a tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park.  There were Portuguese folks on the tour, who again, were very excited about my name, and again, when I explained it was my husband's name, began speaking to Ben in Portuguese (...No...es mi hermano).

While about 10 of the others took the train into the park (I do not recommend doing that),
Tierra del Fuego- The train at the End of the World
Tierra del Fuego- The train at the End of the World (Erin Correia)

the rest of us had the chance to park and walk through the areas they would pass in the train. 
Tierra del Fuego National Park- the southern most national park in the world!
Tierra del Fuego National Park- the southern most national park in the world! (Erin Correia)

It was a cold, wet day and the damp chill was hard to shake, but the scenery was beautiful.
Exploring Tierra del Fuego National Park
Exploring Tierra del Fuego National Park (Erin Correia)

We strolled through the park while our guide told us about the history of the area.  We waited for the rest of the group to arrive by train and then set out exploring other areas of the park. 
By not taking the train, our guide let us know that we could walk through the park and explore!
By not taking the train, our guide let us know that we could walk through the park and explore! (Erin Correia)

We visited the "Post Office at the End of the World" and did some little hikes to beaver dams and lakes. 
Tierra del Fuego post office. We got a stamp in our Passports!
Tierra del Fuego post office. We got a stamp in our Passports! (Erin Correia)


We stopped at one lake where you could see Chile on the other side - so close! 
Tierra del Fuego: The center of this photo is Chile.
Tierra del Fuego: The center of this photo is Chile. (Erin Correia)

At each stop, our guide told us more about the history, geography and culture of the area, so we ended up getting a really great story about Argentina in the end. 
History lesson of Argentina through maps in Tierra del Fuego.
History lesson of Argentina through maps in Tierra del Fuego. (Erin Correia)

Our final stop was where the highway that runs all the way down Latin America ends.  It is "the End of the World".  Here, our guide pulled out a bottle of Leguine, a local liqueor, and we all took shots to toast our morning!
Tierra del Fuego: Cheers to the End of the World!
Tierra del Fuego: Cheers to the End of the World! (Erin Correia)

The scenery at "the End of the World" was beautiful and a perfect place to enjoy a nice local drink!
Tierra del Fuego National Park
Tierra del Fuego National Park (Erin Correia)

It was just enough to lull all of us into peaceful naps for the warm and cozy ride back to Ushuaia.

And away we go! Surviving the Drake

Jun 27, 2014
Finally!  It was time to board the Sea Spirit!

We met at the park, boarded buses and were taken to the gangway. 
Meeting at the pier in Ushuaia to board our ship!
Meeting at the pier in Ushuaia to board our ship! (Erin Correia)

The excited crew shuffled us along as we checked in and were taken to our room. 
Embarking our ship in Ushuaia.
Embarking our ship in Ushuaia. (Erin Correia)

Racquel, our lovely housekeeper, gave us our tour.  We had a Deluxe Suite, and boy, was it fabulous!  We had plenty of space, a balcony, a great bathroom and even a walk-in closet (this came in handy as our dressing room!).
Our suite on the Sea Spirit in Ushuaia.
Our suite on the Sea Spirit in Ushuaia. (Erin Correia)
Another view of our suite on the Sea Spirit in Ushuaia.
Another view of our suite on the Sea Spirit in Ushuaia. (Erin Correia)
Ushuaia: We even had our own private balcony!
Ushuaia: We even had our own private balcony! (Erin Correia)


After having them split our bed into two twins rather than a queen ("...es mi hermano"  "OH! *giggle, giggle, nod*), we set out to the bar to meet our travel mates.  We had a staff introduction, a welcome drink, a safety drill, and then we set sail.  Ben and I gathered on the back deck to watch as we cast off from the pier and headed into the Beagle Channel.  Ushuaia looked even more amazing from the water, and as we moved further away, more and more mountains came into view making the picture more and more grand!
Ushuaia was beautiful! (And cold)
Ushuaia was beautiful! (And cold) (Erin Correia)

Ushuaia, Argentina
Ushuaia, Argentina (Erin Correia)
Beautiful night to be on Beagle Channel
Beautiful night to be on Beagle Channel (Erin Correia)

We all gathered in the dining room for our first meal on board before having a "parka party" to be fitted for our foul weather gear.  During the "party" it was announced that the forecast for the Drake was in and it would not be smooth sailing.  They warned us to take drugs and head to bed if we were wary of motion sickness.  And just like that, it looked like the "sick-bag fairy" had paid a visit to the ship.  As we left the lounge, every surface of the boat was covered in "sick bags".  They were tucked over handrails, behind paintings, on counters - you couldn't reach in any direction without being able to grab one if you needed it.
Friendly warnings about entering rough seas. Time to work on our sea legs!
Friendly warnings about entering rough seas. Time to work on our sea legs! (Erin Correia)

This was not a good sign of things to come!  Ben and I made sure our patches were securely in place and went back to our cabins to "drake-proof".  We stuffed towels in every crevice to hold things in place and made sure nothing could move.  By this point, I realized the patch would not be enough for me, so I popped some pills as well.  That was all it took - I was out! 

I woke up throughout the night when the rocking of the boat was enough to rock my covers off of me, and watched waves crash over our 5th floor balcony!  It was pretty amazing.  The next day, Ben enjoyed lectures of everything Antarctica (penguins, history, geology, birds, seals, whales...even one called "The Wonderful World of Krill"), and I slept.  I woke up for meals and mandatory meetings, and then I crawled back into my cocoon and rocked back to sleep.

By the afternoon, it was actually sunny and beautiful.  I sat out on our balcony for a bit and we enjoyed a barbeque out on deck.  We placed bets on when the first iceburg would be spotted and got more and more anxious for our arrival in Antarctica. 

The kayakers met and got aquianted with our gear (and quickly became the envy of everyone else on board), and excitement mounted.
Getting fitted to kayak while learning about the dangers of kayaking in Antarctica.
Getting fitted to kayak while learning about the dangers of kayaking in Antarctica. (Erin Correia)
Suited up! Just waiting for calmer waters to get out and kayak!
Suited up! Just waiting for calmer waters to get out and kayak! (Erin Correia)

We were almost there!

Iceburgs and Penguins!

Jun 27, 2014
And just like that, the first iceberg was spotted and we were in Antarctic waters! 
A warmer day then expected but very windy! You can see Antarctica behind me!
A warmer day then expected but very windy! You can see Antarctica behind me! (Erin Correia)

It was much sunnier and warmer than I would have imagined!  We enjoyed beautiful views on deck as we drew closer to land.

It was finally time!  Just what I had been waiting for.  We were in Antarctica and we were going to head to shore for the first time - a full day sooner than expected!

 The mission: see penguins.  That was it.  The sky was blue, there was almost no snow on the land, we were going to shore to have a couple of hours to just be with the penguins.

EEEEEEEEE!

As everyone else went ashore, we had a kayaker meeting to learn how to get into and out of our kayaks so we would be prepared for the next day.  I was SO anxious to get to shore that I could not have cared less about kayaking that day!  Finally, we finished our lesson, boarded our zodiac and headed out to Barrientos Island for our first penguin experience.  They were everywhere when we landed!  And here it comes...the obligatory onslaught of penguin photos!
Penguins, penguins, everywhere!
Penguins, penguins, everywhere! (Erin Correia)
Antarctica: Lots of Weddell seals enjoying the sun.
Antarctica: Lots of Wedell seals enjoying the sun. (Erin Correia)
Barrientos Island: Chinstrap Penguins
Barrientos Island: Chinstrap Penguins (Erin Correia)
Barrientos Island: Gentoo Penguin
Barrientos Island: Gentoo Penguin (Erin Correia)
Barrientos Islands: Penguins in the water.
Barrientos Islands: Penguins in the water. (Erin Correia)
Barrientos Island
Barrientos Island (Erin Correia)

I finally left my rock where I was watching them about to try to find Ben.  As I went to find him, it suddenly occurred to me - I just spent an hour watching the penguins, but the people sitting over by the landing site had penguins TOUCHING them!  WHAT?! How was this not happening to me?

I found Ben and he confirmed - penguins were touching people left and right everywhere except where I had been sitting.  AHHH!  We were almost out of time for the landing and I became determined.  I would have a penguin touch me!  I kept trying to place myself strategically in their paths.  Ben had better luck:
Barrientos Island: More penguin attention with my brother
Barrientos Island: More penguin attention with my brother (Erin Correia)

Did I just see one SIT IN THE LAP of another girl?  AHHH!  My panicked desperation soon turned to pouting as penguin after penguin passed me by.
I was like a toddler who didn't get the toy at the store that she wanted:
Barrientos Island
Barrientos Island (Erin Correia)

It was time to cut my losses and head back to the ship.
Barrientos Island and our ship.
Barrientos Island and our ship. (Erin Correia)

Back on board, we had a toast and celebrated our first landing (and I begrudgingly smiled as everyone else told tales of their close encounters of the feathered kind.
Celebrating our first landing at the Captain's Welcome Cocktail Party
Celebrating our first landing at the Captain's Welcome Cocktail Party (Erin Correia)

Enjoying the Rain

Jun 27, 2014
You imagine snow and ice in Antarctica, especially as the winter is starting to roll back in.  Rain is not what I expected, but that is exactly what we got for the next day.

We arrived at Half Moon Island and while the seas were not ideal, Kevin deemed them safe enough for us to attempt our first kayak outing.  None of us were super experienced, and loading into kayaks from a zodiac was a whole new challenge.  Add freezing cold rain/snow mix to that and it becomes really interesting.
First kayaking day at Half Moon Island. It was cold and snowing thick, wet snow. BRR!
First kayaking day at Half Moon Island. It was cold and snowing thick, wet snow. BRR! (Erin Correia)

Despite the elements, we had a successful launch.  The paddling was rough, but we had a chance to see penguins and fur seals (some even came out to play with us), before deciding we were thoroughly wet and exhausted and ready to head back to the ship.  This was the only time that none of the kayakers chose to go ashore after paddling!

The afternoon had less of a rain/snow mix, and more just rain.  We made our way through Neptune's Bellows and marveled at how close we had to come to the rocks to make the passing into the volcano's cauldera:
Passing through Neptune's Bellows to get into Whaler's Bay ( a sunken volcano cauldera)
Passing through Neptune's Bellows to get into Whaler's Bay ( a sunken volcano cauldera) (Erin Correia)
Watching the volcano loom over us on the way back out of Neptune's Bay
Watching the volcano loom over us on the way back out of Neptune's Bay (Erin Correia)

We boarded our zodiacs and made for shore on Deception Island.
Made it into Whaler's Bay and went ashore on Deception Island
Made it into Whaler's Bay and went ashore on Deception Island (Erin Correia)

The black sand made this a unique stop along our route, and all of the wreckage and ruins from the whaling station at Whaler's Bay kept us interested despite the less than desirable conditions
Standing on top of the volcano rim for views out of the caldera on Deception Island
Standing on top of the volcano rim for views out of the caldera on Deception Island (Erin Correia)
Deception Island in Whaler's Bay
Deception Island in Whaler's Bay (Erin Correia)

 

A World War in Snow

Jun 27, 2014
As we made our way to Petermann Island, the rain turned to snow and it felt more like we were in Antarctica.  The landing site was completely covered in penguins and we all wandered around it taking in beautiful views and hilarious little birds
Joined my brother on Petermann Island and saw LOTS of Gentoo penguins.
Joined my brother on Petermann Island and saw LOTS of Gentoo penguins. (Erin Correia)
We saw an Adelie penguin! This was one of the 4 we saw on our trip around Petermann Island
We saw an Adelie penguin! This was one of the 4 we saw on our trip around Petermann Island (Erin Correia)

The snow was blowing strong enough that penguins had started to huddle against rocks for shelter, and the snow was piling up around them
Another shot of Petermann Island with penguins hunkering behind a rock for wind protection.
Another shot of Petermann Island with penguins hunkering behind a rock for wind protection. (Erin Correia)
Petermann Island: This penguin was getting covered by the snow
Petermann Island: This penguin was getting covered by the snow (Erin Correia)
Petermann Island: So beautiful
Petermann Island: So beautiful (Erin Correia)

We hit all the check-point sites and took all the obligatory photos:
Hanging out on the rocks at Petermann Island
Hanging out on the rocks at Petermann Island (Erin Correia)
Living the dream of experiencing Antarctica!
Living the dream of experiencing Antarctica! (Erin Correia)

Then, when we found ourselves with spare time, it got interesting!

As we came down the hill from one of the overlooks, we were ambushed.  Two of the guys from the group had spent the past half hour creating and stockpiling snowballs, and they used them all in a rapid-fire attack on Ben and I!  Oh, it was on!

We quickly ran to the other side of the path and started creating our own ammo.  I found I was useless at throwing in my coat and gloves, so I took on the supply role.  I built them, Ben threw them. 

As other people came down the path, they got caught in the crossfire.  Rather than become upset, they quickly joined a side and started throwing!  People came and went, but the fight ended up lasting about an hour, and throughout we had folks from about 8 countries and 6 decades participating in an epic battle in the snow.
Proof that we had an hour-long snowball fight on Petermann Island before heading back to the ship.
Proof that we had an hour-long snowball fight on Petermann Island before heading back to the ship. (Erin Correia)

Don't worry - while we didn't pause for people, we always stopped for penguins passing through!

Entertainment on board

Jun 27, 2014
You always hear about life on the ice and the amazing experiences everyone has with the penguins and the snow.  But what about life on board the ship?

I'll admit, I didn't see much of it thanks to my medication - so I have very few pictures to prove what a great time it was, but the parts I did partake in were fabulous - and Ben assures me the parts I missed were great too!

There was a little something for everyone aboard the Sea Spirit.  For the educational types, there was always a lecture or chance to learn.  For those who liked a good drink, the bar was pretty much always open.  And for those who love food, well, they were not disappointed!

Everything was an excuse for a celebratory toast - our first iceberg, our first landing, our first whale and so on...
Antarctica: Our farewell cocktail night and dance party on the ship.
Antarctica: Our farewell cocktail night and dance party on the ship. (Erin Correia)


The chefs on board took great pleasure in exciting us with new creations and the staff loved creating special events.  Chocolate Extravaganza night was definitely one of my favorites.  And yes...I tried one of EVERYTHING!
Chocolate Extravaganza for dessert!
Chocolate Extravaganza for dessert! (Erin Correia)

Even the penguins that came to the party were made of chocolate!
The best part of the Chocolate Extravaganza was the hand-made chocolate penguins!
The best part of the Chocolate Extravaganza was the hand-made chocolate penguins! (Erin Correia)

And they certainly didn't let the weather stop them!  While we had some beautiful, sunny barbeques out on deck, others were met by fouler skies.  No matter, the Mad Hatter Sea Party went on as planned, with mulled wine and a mandatory crazy hat creation to keep you warm.
It was Mad Hatter's Sea Party BBQ on the deck. Check out our goofy hats!
It was Mad Hatter's Sea Party BBQ on the deck. Check out our goofy hats! (Erin Correia)

And this is the deck five minutes later. Oh weather!
And this is the deck five minutes later. Oh weather! (Erin Correia)

They had a movie night with their own logo'd bags of popcorn, and late night dance parties at the bar.

And if you wanted to create your own fun, they were always willing to play along.  Dave, our zodiac driver, help Ben catch his very own iceberg.  He hauled it aboard and the bartender cleaned it and chopped it up.  We enjoyed our drinks on iceberg (from a century-old glacier) that night.
This is a piece of an iceberg taken from Pleneau Island
This is a piece of an iceberg taken from Pleneau Island (Erin Correia)
Enjoying the view from our private balcony.
Enjoying the view from our private balcony. (Erin Correia)


The crew on the Sea Spirit went out of their way to make every moment special and memorable.  I brought a dozen books to read (afterall, we would have 4 solid days at sea), and I never even opened the first one!

Majesty!

Jun 27, 2014
I have to be honest.  Antarctica never really appealed to me as a beautiful place to visit.  I wanted to go there to check off my 6th continent and to see millions of penguins.  Snow? Ice? Mountains? Bleh!  That had no draw for me.

Having been there, now all I can say is WOW!  Magestic is the only word I can find even close enough to describe the INCREDIBLE beauty of Antarctica.  The colors seem unreal.  The deep blues of the ice, the dark black of the rock.  The hundreds of shades of gray that I never knew existed (nor would have ever thought were beautiful).

I was completely blown away by Antarctica's beauty.  So what follows are just a few of my favorite shots of this truly amazing area of the world.  I swear, if you haven't been there, these don't do it justice!

Beautiful scenery for spotting whales in Wilhelmina Bay
Beautiful scenery for spotting whales in Wilhelmina Bay (Erin Correia)
The most beautiful gray skies I have ever seen in Wilhelmina Bay
The most beautiful gray skies I have ever seen in Wilhelmina Bay (Erin Correia)
Pleneau Island: Taking a look back at the boat. Puts the grandeur of Antarctica into a nice perspective.
Pleneau Island: Taking a look back at the boat. Puts the grandeur of Antarctica into a nice perspective. (Erin Correia)
Pleneau Island: Iceberg Graveyard Sunset
Pleneau Island: Iceberg Graveyard Sunset (Erin Correia)
Amazing sky at Skorntorp Cove in Paradise Harbour
Amazing sky at Skorntorp Cove in Paradise Harbour (Erin Correia)
Another beautiful shot of the gray skies against the icebergs
Another beautiful shot of the gray skies against the icebergs (Erin Correia)
Pleneau Island: Dragging our kayaks back to the ship
Pleneau Island: Dragging our kayaks back to the ship (Erin Correia)
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: Beautiful views. Hilarious penguins sliding on their bellies!
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: Beautiful views. Hilarious penguins sliding on their bellies! (Erin Correia)
Pleneau Island: Iceberg Graveyard
Pleneau Island: Iceberg Graveyard (Erin Correia)

"This is a message for the Kayakers"

Jun 27, 2014
This daily announcement brought pangs of jealousy to 95% of the passengers on our cruise, but for the lucky 5% who got to be a part of the special little clique than everyone else on board envied, it brought spikes of excitement and anticipation.

Kayaking in Antarctica is expensive - but it turns out it is worth every penny!

During our time in Antarctica, we were able to kayak for about half of our landings.  Sure, there were days at the beginning when it was rough, and wet and cold
First kayaking day at Half Moon Island. It was cold and snowing thick, wet snow. BRR!
First kayaking day at Half Moon Island. It was cold and snowing thick, wet snow. BRR! (Erin Correia)

But then there were days like this
Blown away by the stunning colors of the ice at Pleneau Island
Blown away by the stunning colors of the ice at Pleneau Island (Erin Correia)

and they made it all worthwhile!

The second half of our trip was met by smooth seas and fantastic kayaking conditions.  The water was like glass and the quiet of Antarctica is amazing.  To hear literally nothing but the sound of your paddle hitting the water is so unreal.  Then, all of a sudden, as you're making your way through the iceberg graveyard, you hear intense thunder rumbling all around you.  As you search the sky for the storm rolling in, your guide informs you that it is just the sound of a glacier calving!
Team Kayak!
Team Kayak! (Erin Correia)

While everyone else was out exploring by zodiac, we had harbors and bays all to ourselves.  We watched penguins try to hop up on icebergs and splash in the water all around us
Beautiful day to kayak in Skorntorp Cove
Beautiful day to kayak in Skorntorp Cove (Erin Correia)

Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: We ended up listening to 3 different pairs of whales and saw lots of penguins!
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: We ended up listening to 3 different pairs of whales and saw lots of penguins! (Erin Correia)

Anvord Bay- Neko Harbour: A little gentoo taking a look my way as he passed by.
Anvord Bay- Neko Harbour: A little gentoo taking a look my way as he passed by. (Erin Correia)

and had contests to see who could hit the most "bergy bits" while making our way through Paradise Harbour
Our kayaks in line at Skorntorp Cove
Our kayaks in line at Skorntorp Cove (Erin Correia)
Skorntorp Cove: It was full of "bergy bits" that were chunks of ice that broke off icebergs
Skorntorp Cove: It was full of (Erin Correia)

We usually stuck together as a team,
The waters were finally calm enough for the kayakers! Go team Kayak!
The waters were finally calm enough for the kayakers! Go team Kayak! (Erin Correia)
Heading back to the ship from Skorntorp Cove in Paradise Harbour
Heading back to the ship from Skorntorp Cove in Paradise Harbour (Erin Correia)

but we also had the chance to spread out on our own and just sit and take in Antarctica in a truly special way
Sitting on my own listening to the sounds of ice crackle and move around me. So cool!
Sitting on my own listening to the sounds of ice crackle and move around me. So cool! (Erin Correia)
More bergy bits in Skorntorp Cove
More bergy bits in Skorntorp Cove (Erin Correia)


Kayaking gave us the chance to encounter wildlife more closely than the rest of the people on the ship.  We got up close and personal with seals (read more about this in my next blog)
Spotted our first leopard seal of the trip in Skorntorp Cove!
Spotted our first leopard seal of the trip in Skorntorp Cove! (Erin Correia)

and with whales. 

Our last outing was unbelivable.  The water was like glass and you could hear nothing but silence in every direction.  Then, after the rumble of another glacier calving, you'd hear the sound of a whale breathing.  We'd set off in the direction of the noise to find a humpback mother and calf logging (sleeping at the surface of the water).
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: We go so close that we could literally smell their breath! Amazing!
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: We go so close that we could literally smell their breath! Amazing! (Erin Correia)

We were able to get right up next to them - so close that we could actually smell their breath every time they exhaled!  We just sat there watching them and listening to the breathe. 
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: This mother dove in the water and swam right underneath our zodiac!
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: This mother dove in the water and swam right underneath our zodiac! (Erin Correia)

As they woke up and moved on, we would listen for another pair and set off to watch them for a while
Made our way into Anvord Bay, as people went ashore, the kayakers took off  Neko Harbour
Made our way into Anvord Bay, as people went ashore, the kayakers took off Neko Harbour (Erin Correia)
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: Absolute peacefulness in hearing all of the sounds of Antarctica. So surreal!
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: Absolute peacefulness in hearing all of the sounds of Antarctica. So surreal! (Erin Correia)

It was such an amazing experience!

If you are going to Antarctica, and you have a chance to sign up for kayaking, do not miss out on this phenomenal opportunity!
Kayaking in Skorntorp Cove
Kayaking in Skorntorp Cove (Erin Correia)

"This is soooo c-c-c-ooooollllll"

Jun 27, 2014
I think there is something wrong with me.  When it comes to wild animals and "experiencing" nature, I wasn't really born with that little warning bell that goes off inside your head to tell you that you are entering into a dangerous situation.

I want to touch every wild animal I can.  I have fed hippos, monkeys and giraffes, scrubbed rhinos, snorkeled with sea lions, giant manta rays and sharks, and been far too close to bison and bears in the wild for the comfort of my husband. I dream of doing a silverback gorilla trek someday, and I'm insanely jealous of people who have been able to pet lions and tigers. 

While the thought of getting an up-close experience with penguins was what excited me most about Antarctica, I ended up getting a far more thrilling wildlife encounter than I had bargained for!

In my last post, I mentioned our final day of kayaking where we were able to get right up next to humpback whales.  This was a really beautiful and peaceful experience, but it is not what I am referring to. 

As we were making our way through the bergy bits of Skorntorp Cove in Paradise Harbour, we came upon a leopard seal resting on an iceberg.
Spotted our first leopard seal of the trip in Skorntorp Cove!
Spotted our first leopard seal of the trip in Skorntorp Cove! (Erin Correia)

If you don't know about leopard seals, allow me to enlighten you.  1. They are HUGE, terrifyingly huge.  2. They are the most viscious predator in Antarctica.  If you haven't heard of their reputation before, just do a quick internet search on them and you'll see how cuddly and friendly they are not.

So anyway, we are sitting here, watching this giant predator watch us, and I comment to Dave "Wouldn't it be awesome if it got in the water with us right now".  I received a resounding "NO!" from the rest of the group, to which I replied "Humph". 

We continued along our way and started to get into a straight line to make our way through the ice.  Kevin, our guide, was at the front of the line and I (in a single kayak) was at the very back of the line.  The couple in the double kayak in front of me seemed to be having some trouble manueavouring through the ice, so I gave them more space and ended up about 10-15 feet back from the end of the line. 

All of a sudden, I hear a strange sound next to me "pfffht".  I look to my left, and see this starting back at me
Another picture of a leopard seal.
Another picture of a leopard seal. (Erin Correia)

Okay, not that exact picture, obviously, but pretty much that face being made just a couple of feet from mine on the head of a giant beast that is now chasing me.

I froze - what do you do in this situation?  We covered how to handle a rouge wave, or make a water evacuation...but not what to do if a giant leopard seal comes after you!  Do I yell for help, or will that make him angry?  Do I try to paddle away, or will he grab my paddle if it is in the water?  Do I hit him with my paddle to deter him? (I later learned - nothing - there is pretty much nothing you can do to stop a leopard seal from eating you if he wants to eat you...awesome)

The seal was longer than my kayak and had a Voldemort-ugly face full of sharp teeth.  He kept diving under my kayak and popping up on the other side, making the face at me over and over again. 

I decided to hold my paddle in the air (best not to give him something to grab) and started quiet screaming for the guide "K-k-keviiiiin!!".  The people in front of me finally noticed and turned around to see what was going on.  At this point, I was frozen in my boat, holding my paddle up and quietly muttering.  In my memory, I am sure I was swearing - but the couple in front of me said they turned back to see me holding up my paddle quietly yelling "This is sssoooo c-c-c-ooooollllll.  This is soooo c-c-c-ooooolllll!"

Word made it up to the guide who instantly radioed for our support zodiac to come back (he had backed off to let us enjoy the silence) and then yelled at the rest of the group to "raft up".  If we looked larger, maybe he would leave. 

And then, as quickly as it began, it was over.  By the time the rest of the group joined together, my large friend decided to leave me alone and swam off into the black depths of the icy water.

The zodiac driver said it was his favorite moment of the trip.  In all his years of guiding in Antarctica, he's never had an experience like that, or seen another kayaker have one. 

It was exhilirating, terrifying and all around awesome!!  And it is just one more reason why you MUST kayak if you visit Antarctica!!
 

My 6th Continent

Jun 27, 2014
We had been in Antarctica for 4 days now, but we still had not set foot on the actual continent.  For fellow checklisters out there, this was an important aspect of the trip, and not one that weather always allows for.

However, we were in luck and had beautiful weather our last day.  Finally, we were going to set foot on the continent of Antarctica!

Kevin understood that we were not die-hard kayakers and that we wanted the full experience - by land AND by water.  He did a really great job of splitting our excursions so that we had enought time to really explore by kayak, but also to get to experience what everyone else did on shore.

That morning, while everyone else headed off right away for their landing at Almirante Brown Station, we hit the water and had an hour of epic kayaking in Skorntorp Cove of Paradise Harbour (this was the location of my close enounter of the flippered kind). 

After kayaking, we headed for shore.  As the zodiac pulled up, I stepped out and stepped foot onto my 6th continent!  How amazing!
Almirante Brown Station: Officially on the continent of Antarctica!
Almirante Brown Station: Officially on the continent of Antarctica! (Erin Correia)


Our official first step on the actual continent of Antarctica: Almirante Brown Station
Our official first step on the actual continent of Antarctica: Almirante Brown Station (Erin Correia)

It was a beautiful landing site!  We were told that if we could hike fast, we had just enough time to make it to the top of the mountain (hill) and back before it would be time to leave.  It would be challenging and slick in the kayaking booties, but we were welcome to try.

Most of the kayakers opted to stay at the bottom and hang out with the locals:
More penguins in Paradise Harbour at Almirante Brown station
More penguins in Paradise Harbour at Almirante Brown station (Erin Correia)

But not being one to turn down an opportunity, I grabbed a set of hiking poles and started the ascent.  It was steep, and it was slick, but it wasn't too tough of a climb.  I may have had to crawl at a couple of points, but I made it to the top!
Almirante Brown Station: On top of the mountain!!
Almirante Brown Station: On top of the mountain!! (Erin Correia)

Having such an amazing day at Almirante Brown Station
Having such an amazing day at Almirante Brown Station (Erin Correia)

This was another one of those places where the photos do not do justice to the amazing views:
Hauled myself up to the top of the mountain for a view of Almirante Brown Station
Hauled myself up to the top of the mountain for a view of Almirante Brown Station (Erin Correia)

I savored the view from the top for a few minutes, and then started making my way back down to the landing site.  The way down was a bit more trecherous in the booties, and I may have fallen a few times, but I survived and made it back to the ship in one piece.

Our morning excursion had been so early that it was pre-breakfast, so we had a huge brunch on board before making our next continent landing in the afternoon.  Again, the non-kayakers headed straight to shore in Anvord Bay while the kayakers headed out into Neko Harbour. 

After communing with the humpback whales for an hour or so, I got to set foot on the continent for my second and final time!  Many of the kayakers skipped the landing, but I wanted one last chance to see the penguins and spend some time with Ben.

Anvord Bay was the hilarious scene of toddler penguins chasing their parents, being scolded and then starting all over again.
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: Set foot on land one last time.
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: Set foot on land one last time. (Erin Correia)

I did not make it to the top of the hill here (though I'm told it is amazing), and opted to just enjoy the wildlife and amazing views from the top of a smaller hill instead:
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: Beautiful views. Hilarious penguins sliding on their bellies!
Anvord Bay-Neko Harbour: Beautiful views. Hilarious penguins sliding on their bellies! (Erin Correia)

Neko Harbour: Enjoying amazing views form a hill.
Neko Harbour: Enjoying amazing views form a hill. (Erin Correia)

Ben and I stayed until the final call to head back to the ship, enjoying every last possible moment of this experience together
Anvord Bay - Neko Harbour
Anvord Bay - Neko Harbour (Erin Correia)


Neko Harbour: One last picture before heading back to the ship.
Neko Harbour: One last picture before heading back to the ship. (Erin Correia)

 

Taking the Plunge

Jun 27, 2014
I had heard tales of taking the "polar plunge", but it usually involved a 2 second dip into arctic waters, or running in from a beach and then jumping in a hot spring.  After our final landing on our final day in Antarctica, our guides decided to give us the opportunity to experience this crazy (and probably really stupid) activity.  We had no idea that they had a slightly different challenge in mind for us!

So, here is the story of how I took the polar plunge
Our trip isn't over yet! Since we had calm waters, they gave us the chance to do the Polar Plunge!
Our trip isn't over yet! Since we had calm waters, they gave us the chance to do the Polar Plunge! (Erin Correia)

Step #1: Get suited up:
Polar Plunge: Must be on an Antarctic high because I was SO excited to do the plunge!
Polar Plunge: Must be on an Antarctic high because I was SO excited to do the plunge! (Erin Correia)

Step #2: Get courage from a stiff drink:
Polar Plunge: All suited up and toasting to the Polar Plunge!
Polar Plunge: All suited up and toasting to the Polar Plunge! (Erin Correia)

Step #3: Be the first two in line so you don't have to wear a wet harnass (then start wondering about WHY you need to wear a harnass)
Polar Plunge: My brother went first, so I waited on the gangway.
Polar Plunge: My brother went first, so I waited on the gangway. (Erin Correia)

While in line, start to notice what the crew is wearing, and that they keep moving icebergs out of the way in the water:
Polar Plunge: The crew suited up too. Maybe a sign that we don't need to be jumping in the water?
Polar Plunge: The crew suited up too. Maybe a sign that we don't need to be jumping in the water? (Erin Correia)

Step #4: Get harnassed in:
Polar Plunge: They described the water as "not ice" as I was strapped into my harness. Here we go!
Polar Plunge: They described the water as (Erin Correia)

Step #5: Listen to instructions (assuming:"Jump in and climb out"):
Polar Plunge: Here is when I realized that I wasn't just jumping in...I had to swim to the other zodiac!
Polar Plunge: Here is when I realized that I wasn't just jumping in...I had to swim to the other zodiac! (Erin Correia)
I'm sorry, did the guide in the zodiac 100 feet away just say "Jump in and swim to me" ??????

Step #6: Against all your better reasoning skills, JUMP!:
Polar Plunge: Getting ready!
Polar Plunge: Getting ready! (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: This does not look fun...
Polar Plunge: This does not look fun... (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: Still not ready...
Polar Plunge: Still not ready... (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: Almost there!
Polar Plunge: Almost there! (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: And here....
Polar Plunge: And here.... (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: ...I go!
Polar Plunge: ...I go! (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: No turning back now!
Polar Plunge: No turning back now! (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: Going down!
Polar Plunge: Going down! (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: A shot of my impact from the zodiac. Check out my brother in the background.
Polar Plunge: A shot of my impact from the zodiac. Check out my brother in the background. (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: Into the icy abyss
Polar Plunge: Into the icy abyss (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: And I'm in!
Polar Plunge: And I'm in! (Erin Correia)

Step #7: Start swearing and swim for your life:
Polar Plunge: So cold, so cold!
Polar Plunge: So cold, so cold! (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: Swimming for the other zodiac!
Polar Plunge: Swimming for the other zodiac! (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: Halfway there!
Polar Plunge: Halfway there! (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: I can't swim fast enough.
Polar Plunge: I can't swim fast enough. (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: I made it!
Polar Plunge: I made it! (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: I've never been more happy to climb in a boat.
Polar Plunge: I've never been more happy to climb in a boat. (Erin Correia)

Step #8: Reach the other boat, so excited to make the pain stop:
Polar Plunge: This is where they tell me I have to swim BACK! What?!
Polar Plunge: This is where they tell me I have to swim BACK! What?! (Erin Correia)
I'm sorry, what did you just say?  SWIM BACK!?!?!?!
Step #9: Realize you should pay closer attention to what will be expected of you, start swearing and swimming again:
Polar Plunge: See the suprised look on my face?
Polar Plunge: See the suprised look on my face? (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: Telling myself to just keep swimming.
Polar Plunge: Telling myself to just keep swimming. (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: So ready for warmth.
Polar Plunge: So ready for warmth. (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: And I'm really ready to be done.
Polar Plunge: And I'm really ready to be done. (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: So close!
Polar Plunge: So close! (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: So looking forward to this boat and its warmth.
Polar Plunge: So looking forward to this boat and its warmth. (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: And still swimming. Almost there!
Polar Plunge: And still swimming. Almost there! (Erin Correia)

Step #10: Make your glorious escape from the icy abyss:
Polar Plunge: I'm out! I did it!
Polar Plunge: I'm out! I did it! (Erin Correia)
Polar Plunge: My body is so numb that I don't even feel the cold.
Polar Plunge: My body is so numb that I don't even feel the cold. (Erin Correia)

Step #11: Take the obligatory "we did it!" photo:
Polar Plunge Champions!
Polar Plunge Champions! (Erin Correia)

Step #12: Enjoy the sensation of feeling returning to our bodies in the hot tub:
Polar Plunge: Enjoying the sweet, sweet heat of the hot tub.
Polar Plunge: Enjoying the sweet, sweet heat of the hot tub. (Erin Correia)

 

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