Voyage for two on the Antarctic Dream

It's almost a week since Michael and I got back from our little expedition to Antarctica. We flew by way of Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, Argentina, a 21st century boomtown in a stunning mountainous setting on the Beagle Channel, at the tip of Tierra del Fuego. Ushuaia began as a penal colony. Now it's a gateway to Antarctica trying too hard to be a …