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Franny's Solo Trip To Peru!

Posing at the pass. Not pictured is me breathing very hard!
Posing at the pass. Not pictured is me breathing very hard!
My first solo international trip, I planned my dream trip to Peru. I enjoyed some incredible time in Cusco, Lima, and featuring a trek from Salkantay to Machu Picchu!
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To Peru I Go!

Jul 17, 2022
Peru is unlike any other country I’ve visited and has so much biodiversity. You can visit for three weeks and still only scratch the surface of what the country has to offer. On top of that, the people are amazing. Incredibly welcoming and knowledgeable, they invite visitors with open arms. Every time we have people travel to Peru, they are blown away by their hospitable guides and people they meet. The guides all have personal connections making the experience even more special and genuine. My guide in Cusco, Alfredo, pointed to ancient Incan steps carved in a boulder and said he ran up and down them as a small boy.  Carla, my guide on the Salktantay trek, grew up in Mollepata which is small town at the base of the mountain. She called Salkantay her apu (her mountain protector) and we were even able to meet her parents. Having that connection with the history of the land made it even sweeter to learn about all Peru had to offer – past and present.
 
The free afternoon at Salkantay Lodge was available to explore by horseback at an extra cost.
The free afternoon at Salkantay Lodge was available to explore by horseback at an extra cost. (Franny Friesz)

Not only are the people incredible, but the food is mind-blowing. One of my favorite ways to immerse myself when traveling is by food. I want to try it all, no matter how weird or odd. Land and sea is a common combination and they cover all of the important senses in a dish. Ceviche was by far my favorite. The fresh fish, bathed in tigre de leche (tiger’s milk) along with fresh, and crunchy corn made for an excellent and light meal. I couldn’t get enough. I also loved the coca tea offered everywhere. My hotel in Cusco, Andean Wings, had whole coca leaves you could add to hot water. The drink was like a delicious green tea that gave you the boost you needed and hydration to battle any altitude sickness.
 
Such a stunning place, Humantay Lake.
Such a stunning place, Humantay Lake. (Franny Friesz)

This was also my first trip ever traveling solo internationally. It was a perfect place to dip my toes in figuring out how to navigate things on my own. And of course Adventure Life uses local offices that take care of you from when you land to when you leave. I hardly had to lift a finger! It was fun to write these posts and relive such a special experience. I hope you enjoy!

Land & Sea - Delicious Meals

Jul 17, 2022
Let’s talk about Peruvian food, people. As I mentioned, ceviche was my dish of choice. But I did want to try everything. My first ceviche in Peru was when I landed in Lima at the Wyndham airport hotel. I savored my first flavors of Peru with a classic ceviche and a delicious pisco sour. This was best to have in Lima is best as the fish is fresh from the ocean on the coast. I had ceviche for the first time ever when I traveled to Chile but this was beyond amazing. The tigre de leche made from fish juices and lime was delightfully tangy along with purple onions, crunchy corn, fresh corn, sweet potato, and a bit of heat. I don’t think it gets much better than that.
First meal in Peru was this amazing ceviche in Lima.
First meal in Peru was this amazing ceviche in Lima. (Franny Friesz)

I found a wonderful restaurant in Cusco, recommended by my guide, Alfredo. Yaku Cocina was within quick walking distance of my hotel, Andean Wings. I could have visited different restaurants, but I kept returning to Yaku! I enjoyed a llama steak, aji de gallina, the best hot chocolate of my life, and of course pisco sour. Here, they had a maracuya (passion fruit) pisco that was incredibly delicious.
The delightful maracuya pisco sour. Definitely a must when visiting Yaku Cocina in Cusco.
The delightful maracuya pisco sour. Definitely a must when visiting Yaku Cocina in Cusco. (Franny Friesz)

The meals at the lodges during the trek were equally delicious. They included beers, wine, or pisco at any meal which was dangerous not to take advantage of! Each meal was hearty and filling. My fellow travelers were vegetarian and they were given delicious meals as well. There weren’t options for dinner time, but I enjoyed each meal they provided. At dinnertime, we were given a soup, entrée, and dessert. At Colpa lodge, they treated us to a Pachamanca which was a traditional meal similar to Thanksgiving in the US. A hot bed of coals were raked over wrapped meat and potatoes to cook for about an hour. The result was a delicious spread that had my stomach in knots because I had to try it all. There were about 4 different types of potatoes, corn, meat, and vegetables. I tried my first Guinea pig that day too! I mortified everyone on my Instagram feed when I shared the photos, but you can’t go to Peru and not try a Guinea pig. It was a dark, gamey, and oily meat similar to rabbit. I thought it tasted like an odd combo of duck and rabbit. It was quite tedious to eat around the little bones, but wasn’t bad at all.
Me with my first guinea pig at Colpa Lodge.
Me with my first guinea pig at Colpa Lodge. (Franny Friesz)

All in all, the food was excellent and I was excited to try anything and everything. It was the first trip I could try it guilt-free since I was walking my butt off each day.

Trekking Lodge to Lodge

Jul 17, 2022
I learned about the different lodges and had a lot of head knowledge but still had no idea what to expect. During the trek, we stayed at four beautiful lodges in the middle of nowhere. Each lodge welcomed us with the same routine; enjoy a refreshing towel for your face, take off your shoes, take a cup of mint tea or juice. I loved to  see the routine change only slightly from lodge to lodge. When we were in higher altitude, the air had more of a cold bite. That’s when we’d get warm towels scented with citronella and hot mint tea. When we descended to the cloud forest, the warm towels were refreshingly cold and had tangy maracuya (passion fruit) or satisfying morada (purple corn) juice.
 
View of Colpa Lodge and last of the rugged Andes.
View of Colpa Lodge and last of the rugged Andes. (Franny Friesz)

The staff at each lodge were friendly, welcoming, and unfalteringly accommodating. Always pleasant and wearing big smiles. It was hard to not feel at home. One of my favorite features was the jacuzzi at each lodge. There is nothing better than soaking your tired muscles and bones in a jacuzzi, pisco in hand. Many afternoons, we’d have free to rest, sort through photos, read a book, and enjoy the views around the lodge. Every lodge had wifi as well (usually spotty) which was nice to stay in touch with loved ones, but harder to completely unplug.
Enjoying a pisco, the jacuzzi, and the view at Lucma Lodge.
Enjoying a pisco, the jacuzzi, and the view at Lucma Lodge. (Franny Friesz)
 
Salkantay was by far my favorite lodge. Each of the 12 rooms had a gorgeous view of the mountain, Salkantay and a partial view of Humantay mountain. The lodge had a big common area and dining area upstairs. This was the only lodge we stayed two nights to give us extra time to acclimate to the 12,700 feet elevation. The trek had a perfect mix of activity and down time at the lodges to fully savor and enjoy the experience.

Salkantay Trek

Jul 17, 2022
Prior to my trip, I was mispronouncing Salkantay and saying it phonetically, Sall-can-ta-ee. Instead, it is pronounce Sal-can-thai. The end is like thai food…not as in Tay for Taylor Swift. Classic Gringa. And in another classic gringa move, nothing could quite compare me for the amount of walking and altitude we would experience. It’s recommended to start preparing physically at least three months prior to the trip. Being in Montana, I have access to a lot of great hiking, but three months prior to my trip in May would be in the middle of winter. I did some workout classes to build my endurance as well as cardio capabilities. I’m not in the best shape of my life, but I did put in an effort to work hard and get myself to a good place before this challenge in Peru. I also found some comfortable Columbia hiking shoes and made sure to break them in well. Having a good pair of shoes makes all the difference in the world. It may take some creativity, but the more you prepare, the more you enjoy yourself on the trip!
Carla pulling out coca leaves for the toughest part of our hike.
Carla pulling out coca leaves for the toughest part of our hike. (Franny Friesz)

The trek was structured really well to ease into the trip with some easier and harder days. I highly recommend staying at least two nights in Cusco prior to the trip to work through any altitude sickness. Hydration, light meals, and getting good sleep is key to acclimating well. The first two hikes on the agenda are optional, but even if you aren’t feeling well – do them. They prepare you for the big hike on the third day as you head to the 15,000 ft pass. The team structures hikes so well that you feel like you’re one of the only people on the hikes. Especially for the Humantay (again, thai and not tay) Lake hike on the second day. This has recently become a very popular hike for tourists and we were able to get to the lake before the droves of people showed up from Cusco. If you do this as a day hike, you have leave Cusco by 4 AM and then return later in the afternoon. I felt very lucky to have experienced this as a day hike without the crowds.
Beautiful mountains even with the clouds.
Beautiful mountains even with the clouds. (Franny Friesz)

Each evening, we’d have a review with our guide, Carla, of how the next day would go. We’d walk through what to wear, when to meet for breakfast, and what to expect for the hike. The first couple of days were about 3 miles, the hardest and third day over the pass is 8 miles, an easier and downhill 5 and 6 miles the following two days, and then a final push of 7 miles to the Llactapata Pass (first views of the backside of Machu Picchu) down to a small village where we take a short train to Aguas Calientes. I have to say, it was truly enriching to walk about 35 mapped miles from one point to another just to get a taste of how the Incans walked to wherever they needed to go.

Days in Cusco

Jul 17, 2022
We always recommend staying a few days in Cusco prior to any exploration near Machu Picchu as it helps to acclimate to the higher elevation. But more importantly, Cusco is a beautiful city with so much to offer. If you have the time and budget to stay extra days in Cusco, I highly recommend it. There are many tours we can arrange, but it is ideal to have at least one full day to just wander the streets on your own. Most of my free time was in the evening when it was dark and not as easy to navigate for a solo gal. Still, I enjoyed those evenings wandering from square to square, getting a little lost, but soaking in the bustle of locals and tourists. I felt very safe as a women on her own even when the sun set at 6 PM and I was out there alone in the dark. I was still very aware and cautious, but was never concerned or bothered by anyone.
Exploring Cusco by foot.
Exploring Cusco by foot. (Franny Friesz)

I wish I had at least one more day to explore with my guide or on my own. There are many historical buildings, churches, museums, but also markets and shops to enjoy. The restaurants are abundant to try excellent local cuisine. I took a day trip to the Sacred Valley to experience that as well. Not really recommended as it was a long day, but with even more extra time, staying a night in Ollantaytambo before the Salkantay trek would have been ideal. Ollantaytambo is a smaller version of Cusco and had many similar attractions – ruins, restaurants, walkable streets. For families, there are so many fun activities to do together in the Sacred Valley as well. The best part about our trips in Peru is that they are easily customizable and can tailor trips to fit any solo, couple, or family traveling.
Beautiful streets of Chinchero.
Beautiful streets of Chinchero. (Franny Friesz)

Overlooked Lima

Jul 17, 2022
Everyone traveling to Peru has to take at least one overnight in Lima. Usually it’s an evening arrival, overnight at the airport hotel, and continue to Cusco in the morning. For people who only have 7 days, this is convenient and necessary to continue on to their preferred destination. However, for anyone able to squeeze in more time, not only do I highly recommend time in Cusco, but in Lima as well! Easily compared to Buenos Aires or Santiago, this city has a lot to offer. Miraflores is the best district to stay in and highly recommend more time in this city for anyone who considers themselves a foodie. The food of Peru is highlighted here and the level of delicious cuisine is off the charts. There are museums and history to enjoy as well if a combined city tour is of interest.
Grafitti in Lima, Barranco District
Grafitti in Lima, Barranco District (Franny Friesz)

Don’t overlook Lima on your way to Cusco, the Amazon, or next destination in Peru. It can add a unique spin on your trip and allow you to immerse yourself even further into the experience and all Peru has to offer!

Planes, Trains, & Automobiles

Jul 17, 2022
The three ways of getting around in Peru, especially around Machu Picchu, is by plane (internal flight from Lima to Cusco), vehicle, driving to the Sacred Valley or start of the Salkantay Trek, or train. Driving to Ollantaytambo from Cusco is about 1.5 hours. There is so much to see along the way and many people make a day tour to visit Chinchero, salt mines near Maras, ruins at Moray, and eventually the impressive ruins at Ollantaytambo. Even after driving around for a full day, I didn’t have time to see it all including the ruins at Pisac. Driving to our first hike of the Salkantay trek was over 3 hours, but the drive was broken up well. Carla took us to the Mollepata ruins which was so refreshing after seeing the more popular ruins. We basically had this spot to ourselves. We continued for an hour to Carla’s home town, Mollepata, for lunch with locally grown foods. From there, we proceeded on a mountain road (very similar to the ones in Montana!) for about 1.5 hours to the trailhead. We said goodbye to our driver, who took our things the rest of the way to the lodge.
Our ride to the trailhead for our first hike on the Salkantay Trek.
Our ride to the trailhead for our first hike on the Salkantay Trek. (Franny Friesz)

Our feet carried us nearly the rest of the journey until Day 6 when we crossed over the Llactapata pass. At the end of the road, we found a train station (that had an excellent maracuya popsicle) and boarded a train to take us to Aguas Calientes. Buses take us up and down from Machu Picchu before a later afternoon train to Ollantaytambo (about 1.5 hours). From there, we continued back to Cusco by vehicle.
 
We journeyed by train to Aguas Calientes. The next day, Machu Picchu!
We journeyed by train to Aguas Calientes. The next day, Machu Picchu! (Franny Friesz)

There is a lot of driving and train time involved, but with so much to see along the way, it’s broken up really well. My favorite mode of transportation, of course was my trusty feet!

Art of Ancient Americas - Machu Picchu

Jul 17, 2022
When I was in my senior year of college, I attended a class called “Art of Ancient Americas”. In that class, I learned about Machu Picchu and it has been on my bucket list ever since. It was a sweet thing to experience it on my own and fulfill that goal to see such a beautiful and significant place. Little did I know, Peru had so much more to offer me than just one incredible and popular ruin.
Llamas weren't the only wildlife in the Machu Picchu ruins. There were chinchillas too!
Llamas weren't the only wildlife in the Machu Picchu ruins. There were chinchillas too! (Franny Friesz)

After hiking close to 40 miles in a span of 6 days, I had come to appreciate the pilgrimage of the Incan people. I cheated and had a train, van, or bus, help me get to Machu Picchu, but even a taste of their journey provided a deeper immersion than I anticipated. It surprised me how overwhelmed I was when I arrived. I hadn’t been around many people those 6 days of trekking and suddenly, I was in droves being bussed up to the entrance. My overwhelmed nerves were heightened as I realized my pass did not have my legal name. I came so far, and was so worried I wouldn’t make it in because of a typo. Luckily, they only really care about the passport number and I made it through the entrance.

I found myself annoyingly giddy with anticipation as we rounded the corner to what was supposed to be the first great viewpoint only to be extremely disappointed by a shroud of cloud and mist at the top. My dream of seeing Machu Picchu in it's over shared immaculate glory was squashed by clouds. Flashbacks to my trek in Torres del Paine flooded in my head. In Chile, when we got to the top of the hike and could barely see the lake, let alone the towers. We waited in vain for a few minutes, cold, wet, and tired before heading back down the mountain. Now in Peru, I was worried this was going to be a similar experience and I’d never see the full glory of the ruins framed by beautiful Huayna Picchu.
 
We didn't see the full ruins of view of Huanya Picchu at first, but the llamas were present!
We didn't see the full ruins of view of Huanya Picchu at first, but the llamas were present! (Franny Friesz)

Carla patiently pulled us to the side to share the history of this incredible place shrouded in clouds. Maya and Phil listened attentively while I fidgeted like a preteen, glancing over my shoulder every 2 seconds to see if the clouds would lift. Since COVID, the regulations changed and you could only spend 2 hours in the ruins and had to follow a specific path. Of course, no one abided by that regulation and people from earlier entrances were crowding around, waiting to see the clouds lift as well. I eventually decided to let it go, trying to listen to my sweet friend and guide share more stories about this place. Even though I couldn’t see it all, I was still there.
 
Made it to Machu Picchu!
Made it to Machu Picchu! (Franny Friesz)

As we wove through the ruins, the clouds slowly lifted and it was even more majestic than I could have imagined with the mist cradling the rounded peaks. I finally let myself settle and savor the little time I had in the ruins. I was here, I made it. 
By the end of the journey through the ruins, we had a clear view.
By the end of the journey through the ruins, we had a clear view. (Franny Friesz)
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