Travel Articles: Arctic

I will admit history has never been my favorite topic. But my ears did perk up with the tale of Wanny Wolstad. As an avid outdoorswoman I was delighted when our historical guide, Sven shared her story. Wanny was the first woman trapper and hunter on Svalbard. She arrived in 1932, after being widowed twice and raising two sons on her own. She …

Growing up in the landlocked state of Montana, my boat experience was limited to lakes and rivers. I didn't know what to expect in terms of what sleeping on a ship would be like, what a a cruise schedule was like or what exactly an expedition cruise would entail. The Sea Spirit was beautiful, and had recently been refurbished. The cabins were …

Once we got off the plane in Longyearbyen we gathered our luggage from the single baggage claim, and followed the crowd outside where two large buses were waiting. We figured we were supposed to follow everyone else onto a bus of our choosing, even though we weren't exactly sure where either of them was going to end up. We quickly learned that …

There are certain places which, despite having read their names thousands of times, mean nothing to me. The big places like Machu Picchu and Torres del Paine - the smaller places like Mount Kinabalu and the Ngorongoro Crater (neither of which are actually small, just lesser known) – often tantalize and fill me with whispers of wanderlust. …

Our Circumnavigation of Svalbard being a cruise, it shouldn’t come as much of a surprise to learn that we spent much of our time around water. The two weeks we spent abroad exposed us to a new Ocean (the Arctic) and three new seas (the Norwegian, Barents, and Greenland Seas). Large bodies of water aside, however, it surprised me to see just …

When it comes to wildlife, the Arctic has its own Big Five: Polar Bear, Walrus, Whale, Fox, and Seals. I’m pleased to report that we saw them all.

**Our first sighting of Svalbardic wildlife (not part of the Big Five) came in the form of three reindeer who watched us carefully as the enjoyed their mid-morning snack of moss and …

On the morning of our seventh day in Svalbard, I peeled back the curtains to see what playground awaited me and gasped out loud when I saw it. Monacobreen: A glacier so stunningly blue-hued that I thought my eyes had deceived me. Quickly turning around to tell Molly that it was the most beautiful sight I had ever beheld, I pulled back the curtains …

I’m a bit of a history nerd. I devour biographies and historical miniseries and have been known to spend hours pouring over museum exhibits. While I knew that much of the Arctic’s early years were rooted in the whaling industry, I was surprised to learn that whaling was just the tip of a long and fascinating history of Svalbard. I was …

Fact: Regardless of what Coca-Cola would like us to believe, penguins and polar bears do not co-exist. As I child, I believed the commercials which depicted the two species meeting up and sharing icy bottles of soda at Christmastime. In my adult years, I learned that Coca-Cola lied to me. Penguins and polar bears live as far away from one another …

For me, learning the seven continents was easy. Learning the countries that reside within their borders was more difficult. Learning the landmasses which are neither continent nor country, however, was often downright impossible. So was the case with Svalbard – an Arctic archipelago halfway between Norway and the North Pole. If you’re …

A true must on any polar expedition is the polar plunge. To be honest, I wasn’t too enthused to jump into icy water but I am so glad I did. Twice. Now, I’ve jumped into glacial lakes in Montana but the sheer thought of the Arctic water was daunting. I had no idea how cold I would really feel and I was happy to be pleasantly surprised. …

Our itinerary had intentional stops to communities throughout Greenland and Canada.



Ilulissat and Sisimiut were our two Greenland stops. These bustling towns were full of families and guests. From fishing to hunting, teaching and learning, the communities seemed vibrant and full of life. The heat of the summer led to families walking along the …

Every expedition has a list of animals and birds that one MIGHT see on an expedition. Of course, no one can guarantee a sighting so it is good to take trips without expecting a sighting. This helps to keep the excitement high when a critter IS spotted.



This is what I tried to do. I have had a National Geographic picture of Polar Bear on my …

The invention of the zodiac is a game changer for expedition travel. Not only are they quick little boats; they are light, fairly easy to maneuver and large enough to hold at least 10 people. They have become the best way to travel between ship and shore as well as for quick cruises around the polar region.



Getting in and out of a zodiac can …

Packing for the Arctic felt really daunting and tricky in the heat of our Missoula summer. Our winter clothes had been packed away for some time and the thought of temperatures below 50F seemed like a dream.



Luckily, we had a packing list to help us start the process. The biggest and best thing you can do is think in lots of layers. They will …

Programming on the Ocean Endeavour sticks to a similar schedule for each full day on board. Of course, expedition travel can change within minutes so, again, you always have a Plan A, B, C, D and sometimes E.



Fortunately, we had such great weather, our programming stayed mostly on track each day!



Here is what a typical day on the Ocean …

The morning into Disko Bay is one of the most memorable days of our cruise. We entered these calm waters to be greeted by hundreds of icebergs in every shape/size you might imagine. Our excitement grew as the icebergs started getting packed together as this was the sign we were entering the mouth of the Sermeq Kujalleq glacier in the Illulissat …

Sisimiut was our first official stop in Greenland after our journey down the Sondre Stromfjord. The community has been around for 4,500 years. From the Saqqaq culture, we saw additions of the Dorset people, the Thule, and then from Canada and Denmark. Sisimiut means “the inhabitants at the foxhole” and remains ice free all year. These …

There are not many ways to fly North without spending a heavy number in dollars and time. We heard from staff that a charter flight to Resolute could cost a person around $7,000 US! Fortunately, Adventure Canada and similar companies have the chance to charter airlines to transport the group to and from the ship all at once. Making it all the much …

Landing on shore at Nain, we were greeted by the brass band of the Moravian Church. The brass band uses instruments and playing techniques that originated with the German-born Moravian missionaries who settled in Labrador in the eighteenth century. But the brass band tradition has been waning in recent years, with only a handful of adults …

Long-abandoned Hebron was once one of the most northerly communities on the north Labrador coast. A Moravian Mission station was constructed here from 1829 to 1831 but the main buildings - the church, the mission house and the store - were not inhabited until 1837.

In a highly controversial move, the station was abandoned in 1959, forcing the …

One of my favorite aspects of traveling solo are the friends I meet along the way. Not having a traveling companion means that I have to put myself out there, talk to strangers, and (gasp!) even share a cabin with another solo female traveler. I've always been very lucky to have excellent roommates (takes one to know one) and this time was …

Our Arctic cruise itinerary has been flexible, adjusting due to rapidly changing ice conditions. We end up with a couple of extra days at sea as we navigate the ice filled waters of the Davis Strait. Our onboard staff seem to have a limitless host of activities to keep us entertained. For Canada Day, they host an onboard marathon, complete with 26 …

I'm talking with our Arctic cruise expedition leader at the bridge, curious about our progress across the Davis Strait from Greenland to Canada. Suddenly one of my fellow passengers shouts "whale, 1 o'clock". I push open the door and shout for the kids. A second whale breaches at 2 o'clock, followed by several others. Within …