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Tanzania Adventure!

Beautiful Maasai mom with her baby helping to milk the cows for the morning.
Beautiful Maasai mom with her baby helping to milk the cows for the morning.
My husband and I spent two weeks exploring Tanzania by eating good food and fruits, built huts with the local people in a village, exploring the plains, spotting the "Big Five" and other wildlife on safaris in the Serengeti. We also enjoyed the beautiful beaches of Zanzibar. We had a wonderful trip!
All Photos

Photo Album

Jet Lag Truths

Nov 18, 2019
We had a forced overnight in Amsterdam on our way to Tanzania, which originally frustrated me. It was unknown, we don’t have experts to tell me where to stay/what to do. But as soon as I embraced it, I knew I wouldn’t regret the extra night. I read up on recommendations, looked at areas to book a hotel, asked friends and coworkers what they suggested and started to get really excited for our 20 hours there. I ended up booking a highly rated AirBnB that was very affordable and close to the airport. It was a tiny house located on a beautiful hydrangea flower farm. This hostess was very much like Joanna Gaines with the decor/overall atmosphere and had this place set up so comfortably. They were my best resource as I told them what we hoped to do that day we were there and gave great local advice. Our hostess, Bruna, recommended the Albert Cuyp Market for a fresh stroopwafel and to take a canal cruise. I wasn’t sure how we’d be feeling when we arrived at 1 PM (feeling like it would be early in the morning for us) and didn’t book anything in advance. The best feature of this AirBnB was that they offered rides to and from the airport. We entered confused and exhausted to Amsterdam but happy to have someone to give us a ride to our “home” for the day. 

Our Tiny House in Amsterdam
Our Tiny House in Amsterdam (Franny Friesz)


We ended up booking an Uber ride into town after we settled in which was between $30-40 USD each way. We were dropped off at Albert Cuyp Market which was perfect for strolling and seeing food and gifts to buy. We made a quick stop at an ATM so we had enough cash to get a delightful stroopwafel that was freshly made. 

Most amazing stroopwafel of my life - fresh from Albert Cuyp Market.
Most amazing stroopwafel of my life - fresh from Albert Cuyp Market. (Franny Friesz)


We wove our way through the rustic streets until we found the main canals and a place where we purchased a cruise for about $20 USD per person. The cruise was about 1.5 hours and gave us a glimpse of beautiful Amsterdam. We had a couple of Heineken on board just to enrich our experience. It definitely tastes a little better where it was made. We caught an Uber to take us back to our tiny home and were grateful for a comfortable place to rest for the night. Sleep didn’t come as easy and we both woke up in the middle of the night. It was then that I was so grateful for the extra night to try and adjust to the time change. We didn’t have to prepare ourselves to go on safari the next day, just for another long flight to Kilimanjaro. 

A canal cruise was the perfect way to see the city in the short time we had.
A canal cruise was the perfect way to see the city in the short time we had. (Franny Friesz)
I would recommend an extra night to any of my travelers. I think it was extra special to have time in Amsterdam as it was totally different than Africa. It added to the adventure having a hot second in Europe before heading to Tanzania. Even if it means two extra nights in Tanzania at the beginning of your trip, do it. Make room for it in the budget because you won’t regret it and you’ll be all the more ready to soak up every second of your adventure ahead.

Tanzanian Soup For The Soul

Nov 18, 2019
This may be the first trip I returned home and I didn’t double my weight from the food we ate. Not to say I didn’t eat - I ate A LOT. But, the food was delicious, healthy and plentiful. The first meal I had in Tanzania started with a warm soup the evening we arrived. I have never tasted anything so amazing and that set the stage for every single soup I had while in Tanzania. Almost every single meal we had started with a soup and many of them were either vegetable or pumpkin. They contained the most incredible seasonings and I think they have Zanzibar to thank for that. 

We were also treated with a beautiful morning which meant the staff set up breakfast outside in the morning sunshine.
We were also treated with a beautiful morning which meant the staff set up breakfast outside in the morning sunshine. (Franny Friesz)


You might find cardamom (my favorite), nutmeg, cinnamon or some other non-conventional spice in their soups. I don’t think I’ll ever make soup the same way and I’ll always be searching for a recipe to try and replicate that rich, sweet depth of flavor and warm taste. Zanzibar was where we enjoyed a spice tour and saw the source of these incredible spices that I have taken for granted my entire life. It was amazing to see the plants that produced the spices and we walked through a maze of plants that gave us cardamom, hazelnut, trees with cinnamon bark, fruit trees for durian fruit, jackfruit, bananas, plants that were used to dye curry and so much more. 

Best soup of my life.
Best soup of my life. (Franny Friesz)


Every meal while on safari had a dish with the most delicious meat and was also well flavored. Coming from Montana, we were blown away by the fresh and local foods we ate. Nothing was processed, preserved, and it was all delicious! 
 
Massive jack fruit.
Massive jack fruit. (Franny Friesz)

Diversity of Landscape and Climate

Nov 18, 2019
I think what surprised me most about Tanzania was its diverse landscape which resulted in many different climates. Our guide, Rama, explained the cause of this landscape by themovement of tectonic plates and volcanic activity. The Rift Valley can be seen from Lebanon all the way to Mozambique in southeastern Africa. This is a serious of geographic trenches and it’s amazing to see the result of the landscape and wildlife in Tanzania. The most amazing of those is Lake Manyara which is a lush green forest that has a plethora of monkeys, and other scattered animals like zebra, wildebeest, giraffes and elephants. There are also underground springs along that side of the Rift Valley, which is why the area is so lush and vegetated. 

Lake Manyara area is so lush and green thanks to many underground rivers.
Lake Manyara area is so lush and green thanks to many underground rivers. (Franny Friesz)


Just a few hours drive takes you to a dry and almost desert-like land by Lake Natron which is similar to Lake Manyara. The lakes are a result from the volcanic activity from nearby mountains. Lake Natron is a direct result from the still-active volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai (Mountain of the Gods). I was curious to see how the different landscapes also affected the temperatures we encountered. Now, when you’re packing your bags for Africa, you are thinking hot and dry. You think you’ll only need shorts, tank tops, a hat and maybe some sunscreen/bug spray. The more I read about what to pack from other travelers or advice we give to our own travelers, the more I learned that layers were necessary for some of the locations we stayed. 

Walking on the old lava was amazing. We saw footprints set in stone from early Maasai travelers.
Walking on the old lava was amazing. We saw footprints set in stone from early Maasai travelers. (Franny Friesz)


While Lake Natron was hot and dry, the Serengeti was a breath of fresh, cool air. In the mornings and evenings, we wore pants, long sleeved shirts and a jacket or vest. Ngorongoro Crater was the coldest as it was the highest elevation location we stayed. Every camp had their beds dressed accordingly as well with either light sheets, or thick blankets like Ngorongoro had. The difference in elevation was deceiving as compared to climbing switchbacks up a mountain in Montana. This terrain was gradual and winding - the mountains, just like Kili, had sloping sides and were not the rugged or steep mountains that I was used to seeing. We were grateful for both our warm and cold weather gear we packed. We wore every piece of clothing (sometimes 3-4 times) and you won’t regret having some layers to wear while enjoying your evening fires (bush TVs). Don’t ever underestimate the power of sunscreen even if you are on safari under a hood like we were. Bug spray is important as well. We were lucky to not have many bugs, but that can depend on the season. The worst flies we encountered were in Tarangire and mosquitos in Zanzibar. We had either mosquito nets or zipped up tents wherever we were at night that protected us from any other bugs that may wanted to suck our blood at night.
 
We had a fun night with cozy blankets, our bush tv, the best view, popcorn and some drinks. It just doesn't get better.
We had a fun night with cozy blankets, our bush tv, the best view, popcorn and some drinks. It just doesn't get better. (Franny Friesz)

The Maasai People

Nov 18, 2019
When you travel to Tanzania, you hear mostly about the animals, safari days and incredible guides who stick with you along the way. You don’t expect to encounter a rich and vibrant culture of the Tanzanian people let along the Maasai tribes. They are such an integral part of anyone's experience of Tanzania, I think that it is vital to learn more about them. Wherever you are driving outside of the national parks, you will see cattle and a Maasai wearing long robes, carrying a stick.

Our Maasai guide, Lemra, holding up the horns of a wildebeest.
Our Maasai guide, Lemra, holding up the horns of a wildebeest. (Franny Friesz)


We were so lucky to have a Maasai guide and experience the life of his tribe while at Lake Natron. Lemra was a sweet and bright man. He was eager to show us everything we wanted to learn about the area and welcomed questions about the Maasai people and their lifestyle. We walked with him from our camp to Lake Natron (about six miles round trip) and spoke about the history of his tribe, culture, his life story and family. He explained that he had just been elected chairman and was so proud to lead his tribe in this day and age. Lemra spoke about the challenges he faced with making sure each member had an education, yet still embraced their way of life and were able to care for their cattle. The sheep, goats and cows owned by the Maasai represents their currency. The bigger the herds, the bigger their family needs to be. Some men take multiple wives so they can grow a family big enough to help maintain their livestock. Lemra has a difficult position to find a way to bring education to his people without stripping them of their culture. 

Lovely Maasai ladies showing us their handmade items for sale.
Lovely Maasai ladies showing us their handmade items for sale. (Franny Friesz)


When we entered the village early in the morning, the women of the village greeted us with a song and dance. I was encouraged to join and did my best to sing along and dance with these beautiful women. We had the opportunity to try and milk a cow which was very comical. I’m sure it was just as fun for them as it was for us. Another humbling task I embraced was helping a woman repair her house. The outside had crumbled away in the recent heavy rains. She had a fresh load of new siding which consisted of cow dung and urine mixed together. I rolled up my sleeves, took a big handful and started slapping it on her house. I helped her for about five minutes which didn’t seem long, but our guide, Lemra, was astonished. He said I was the very first to ever help with this task. Most other tourists are too afraid to get their hands in poop. Not to say it didn’t make me nervous - I did wash my hands many times afterwards - but what a humbling and sweet thing to do with the woman responsible to maintain the upkeep of her home. It surprised me how much I loved seeing first hand the day-to-day life of that tribe. Lemra said they are a poor people, but I think that’s only when it comes to money. They seemed a very rich people indeed. Rich in culture, joy, family and skills that many of us have lost over the years. They depend on their animals, each other and the land. A part of me envied them and the beautiful lives they lead.

After the rains, their house needed patching up.
After the rains, their house needed patching up. (Franny Friesz)

 

Typical Safari Day

Nov 18, 2019
Favorite spot while searching for animals.
Favorite spot while searching for animals. (Franny Friesz)


If you are traveling across the world like we did, you may wake up before your alarm and in the darkness of your tent enjoy the sound of bugs and wildlife stirring outside. At 6:00 AM, your alarm sounds and you begin your day. If you prefer to shower, you knew to ask the staff to set it up for you the evening before. You’ll hear them filling up your tank with warm water and give you the go ahead when it’s ready. Most of the time, your showers are saved for the end of the day, after your dusty, amazing safari drive. Depending on where you are, you get dressed for the day. If it’s a hot day, maybe shorts or pants that roll up, a short sleeved shirt and a light long sleeved blouse to protect you from the sun. If the morning is cool, boots and warm socks are comfortable to wear but bring your chacos along for when it starts to warm up. Pack your day bag with the essentials; sunscreen, bug spray, a hat, any additional layers needed, chargers/cords (I recommend a portable battery charger), camera and a happy morning smile for your guide.

Early mornings, but with this alarm, it reminded me to savor every second. I was in AFRICA!
Early mornings, but with this alarm, it reminded me to savor every second. I was in AFRICA! (Franny Friesz)


If it’s still dark outside (sun usually rises between 6 and 6:30 AM), a staff member will walk you to the tent to either have your coffee and tea before heading out on an early safari or to enjoy your breakfast. From here, you will head out on your safari. Your guide will be looking for all of the animals and potentially communicating with other guides to see where the exciting or rare ones are located. 

Rafiki, Rama, and wildebeest posing for a picture with us.
Rafiki, Rama, and wildebeest posing for a picture with us. (Franny Friesz)


Be sure to communicate with your guide about what you hope to see and have zero expectations. They will do their best to get you to the right place at the right time, but remember, they have no control over these wild animals. After your incredible day of discovering the landscape and wild animals, you will either return to the same camp or to a new one. They will greet you with a towel to freshen up and wipe off your face, neck and arms. This is a good time to set up a bush shower (or they also like to call it the “talking shower”) to wash off and freshen up before dinner. The evenings were relaxing and perfect for winding down to process your day. It started to get dark close to 6:30 PM and dinner was usually around 7 or 7:30 PM. After a delicious dinner, usually we enjoyed a local beer (Safari, Serengeti or Kilimanjaro) by the bush TV with one channel - the fire. Sometimes you might hear lions roar, hyenas bark and, of course, all of the chirping bugs. One night in the Serengeti, we witnessed a commotion on one side of the camp and some of the staff yelling and laughing. I followed the noise, and I will never forget the image of a hyena proudly running with a bucket in his or her mouth. It was the best way to end our night. We headed to our tent and to bed but not before gazing up at the beautiful star filled sky. 
Our Bush TV at Migunga Tented Camp.
Our Bush TV at Migunga Tented Camp. (Franny Friesz)

Tipping During Safari

Nov 18, 2019
The most difficult planning part of any trip for me is how much money do I bring and how do I think about tipping my guide well? I’m not one to carry cash in my everyday life, so it is against my nature to carry hundreds of dollars especially while I’m traveling in a foreign country. It’s a stressful part of travel that I don’t think people talk about enough. Part of that is tipping and any extra cash you bring is very personal. We tell our travelers that gratuities is up to you and the experience you have and that it’s not expected. But, the truth is, it’s a very expected part of travel, especially for Americans. I think we’d go crazy if we didn’t tip. Even as prepared as I thought I was, I felt like I was hemorrhaging money the entire trip because of a few mistakes I made as well as unexpected expenses that I would have planned to pay by credit card. 

We hated having to say goodbye to our guide and new friend, Rama.
We hated having to say goodbye to our guide and new friend, Rama. (Franny Friesz)


The biggest factor for the amount of money I carried was for our safari guide. He was not only just our guide, but he was our driver as well and spent the entire 8 days with us. I think it’s common to tip $15-25 USD per person, per day, depending on your budget, especially when your guide is also your driver. The lodges we stayed at were wonderful about taking tip at the end either by the host, by envelope, or a tip box. I budgeted about $10 a night per room. This could also be more as I felt like some of the places we visited deserved more since there were less travelers and we were the only ones they took care of.

They sent us off with music and a happy birthday song for my hubby.
They sent us off with music and a happy birthday song for my hubby. (Franny Friesz)


Another factor I didn’t expect was having alternative guides or tours on certain days. On our way from Lake Manyara to Lake Natron, we had the opportunity to have a cultural tour in Lake Manyara to see how the Tanzanian people lived day-to-day. As it was going to be a long day of driving, we eagerly took advantage of the tour and paid $20 per person and Rama (our safari guide), did not join us.

We loved Lemra!
We loved Lemra! (Franny Friesz)


In Lake Natron, we were lucky enough to have a Maasai guide, Lemra.  Again, Rama didn’t join us on the tours Lemra led, so we had to take into account another guide to tip these days. Luckily, Rama was able to help us find a few ATMs along the way. One in Lake Manyara (right before we went to a big mall that had great souvenirs), one near Arusha, and another in Stonetown, Zanzibar. We also needed our cash for any additional drinks we wanted at the camp. As they were more of a rural accommodation, we needed to pay for any bills by cash and not credit card. Tipping is a common question I have from travelers and it’s always so difficult to answer. Again, it’s very personal based on budget and how pleased you are with the service. That in mind, I hope these comments help you decide for any trip you take to Tanzania! 
His assistant guide was our favorite and we called him, Tarzan.
His assistant guide was our favorite and we called him, Tarzan. (Franny Friesz)

The Big Five

Nov 18, 2019
Cape Buffalo
Cape Buffalo (Franny Friesz)


The Big Five - what every traveler hopes to see when they go on safari in Africa. If you don’t know it, I’m talking about the Elephant, Lion, Leopard, Cape Buffalo and Rhino. The best thing you can do for yourself is to expect nothing. We were lucky enough to see all five and I can thank Rama for trying so hard to make that happen! He had created great relationships with other guides to give us tips where the more elusive animals were hiding. Our trusted safari vehicle, which we lovingly named Rafiki (friend), took us from place to place on rough roads to see each one. We visited five parks/conservations, but were only able to see four of the five max in each place. 

In the Serengeti, you would see tons of wildebeest behind the small elephant herd.
In the Serengeti, you would see tons of wildebeest behind the small elephant herd. (Franny Friesz)


Tanzania has only a few paved roads to get you from park to park, but our guide said the current president was working hard to improve the roads all over the country. The first park we saw elephants at was Lake Manyara from a distance. We actually caught a glimpse of elephants at all five places we visited. I think seeing the lions was one of my favorite things. We saw them for the first time in the Serengeti and that evening, we saw a male mate with a female while on their “honeymoon”. They mate frequently about four months before the rainy season when their babies will arrive. We witnessed a female attempt to take down a zebra in Tarangire. I was rooting for the zebra, my husband for the lion.

Beautiful lioness about to give us a show.
Beautiful lioness about to give us a show. (Franny Friesz)


We saw five leopards and three were a mom and cubs in the Serengeti. Rama had an eagle eye for leopards. He would see them from over a mile or two away just by their feet and or tails hanging from a tree branch. My husband and I were in awe of Rama! There were plenty of Cape Buffalo wherever we went and they reminded us a lot of our own buffaloes or bison in Montana. Not that this should lose the excitement of seeing a similar animal in Africa, but we definitely enjoyed the cats and elephants a lot more!

Momma leopard leaping out of the tree after doing her best to protect her kill from a circling bird. She wasn't too happy we were there watching.
Momma leopard leaping out of the tree after doing her best to protect her kill from a circling bird. She wasn't too happy we were there watching. (Franny Friesz)


Last of all was the rhino.This guy was spotted in Ngorongoro where I read is most common to see the rhino in Tanzania. We first saw the mound of his shoulders in the tall grass. We hung around the area watching adorable zebra itching themselves on a rock until Rama heard he had stood up. It was still far away, but so exciting to see that elusive animal.

Our last of the Big Five - Mr. Rhino.
Our last of the Big Five - Mr. Rhino. (Franny Friesz)

Balloon Safari On The Serengeti

Nov 18, 2019
I told my coworkers that I was a bit nervous to take a balloon ride as I’ve always been afraid of heights. One of them said, “oh, just think of it like you’re in an airplane!” They couldn’t be more right. We were picked up early in the morning to arrive to where the balloons were being filled at 6 AM. When we arrived, other safari vehicles rolled in soon after. We were split into two groups of 16, one group for each balloon. We met our pilots and they gave us a briefing about what the next 1.5 hours would look like. First, we were to strap into our seats and we entered the basket as it was on its side. Our pilot had the balloon filled with cold air before we all wiggled our way into our seats. He then used the fire to blow hot air into the balloon which made the basket become upright. Suddenly, we were airborne. My coworker was correct, it was more like being in an airplane rather than suspended from a ladder in midair as I had feared. The basket was large and tall where we felt very secure.

Our trusty pilot, riding the thermals.
Our trusty pilot, riding the thermals. (Franny Friesz)

 
We had about an hour in air to have a birds eye view on the Serengeti. We were lucky enough to be in the central Serengeti when the migration was headed through. Seeing this from above was the best way to truly capture the numbers as we saw waves of wildebeest and zebra moving through the land below. We saw the hordes of animals, hippos in pools, hyenas feasting on a meal, a running family of giraffes, herds of elephants and more. During that hour, the balloon was riding the thermals of the air which meant that we were sometimes very high in the air and sometimes very close to the ground.

Witnessing the waves of wildebeest and zebra really showed the massive numbers on the ground.
Witnessing the waves of wildebeest and zebra really showed the massive numbers on the ground. (Franny Friesz)


The hour went by so quickly as we saw many animals as well as the beautiful rising sun over the Serengeti. We landed in an open field next to the other hot air balloon. We met in the middle where the safari vehicles drove to meet us. As per tradition, the pilots popped bottles of champagne to celebrate a wonderful ride and to make peace with the landowners where we landed (the wild beasts). Since they don’t drink champagne, we all enjoyed it ourselves. We then drove to a designated area on the Serengeti to enjoy a beautiful breakfast with even more champagne. To anyone weighing the cost or time it takes to do a balloon safari, I highly recommend it. We enjoyed the change in perspective and fun adventure. We also made a few new friends in our shared experience.
Beautiful outdoor location for our delicious breakfast.
Beautiful outdoor location for our delicious breakfast. (Franny Friesz)

Lake Manyara - Natron - Serengeti - Ngorongoro - Tarangire

Nov 18, 2019
I appreciated the order of how we did our trip. Mostly because it gave us a foundation of learning about the people of Tanzania and built knowledge of the landscape and then the animals. The experience was all the more rich with building the layers that this country has to offer. Lake Manyara National Park was our first stop and where we first popped the hood of our trusty vehicle, Rafiki. We wove through the dirt roads and thick forests to see our first animals. The forest opened up to flat ground before extending very far into the distance where Lake Manyara was located. You could see a glimmer of pink where the flamingos were feasting. In this flat ground, we saw our first of the Big 5 - the big Cape Buffalo. We witnessed many birds in this area as well as eagles, storks, pelicans, herons and more. This was the first time we saw baboons and our guide was in awe of a troop he thought to be over 150. We also came across some vervet monkeys (also known as blue ball monkeys) with their babies, saw giraffes for the first time as well as zebra and elephants (2 of 5!). We came back to our camp on a high from such an amazing day and couldn’t believe it. 

We sat and watched them for a long while.
We sat and watched them for a long while. (Franny Friesz)


The next day, we took a long and rough journey to Lake Natron. Now reflecting on the entire trip, that three hour drive seemed like the longest one of all. It was our first introduction to what Rama called an African Massage and boy, was it DEEP tissue. We exited the lush Lake Manyara area and descended into the desert of Lake Natron. We “brought our blessings” as Rama likes to say with a big thundering rain storm. They don’t have rain often in Lake Natron, so they were grateful to have the blessings. We enjoyed seeing that massive and beautiful storm that you’d picture when thinking about an African storm. The clouds were dark and foreboding while there was sun and blue sky on the other side. It was a great contrasting beauty. Here, we met our Maasai guide, Lemra. He was to be our guide for the next full day at Lake Natron. We walked from our camp to Lake Natron to see the flamingos and an interesting place where there were cows and human footprints cemented into the volcanic rock. We enjoyed getting to know Lemra and learning about his Maasai tribe along the way. We were tired and hot when we returned, but seeing some giraffes up close gave us a breath of fresh air to finish our six mile round trip walk to the camp. We had the afternoon to rest, get lunch and then head out on another adventure. Because it was still on the edge of the dry season, we had the opportunity to hike to a waterfall. Lemra explained that during the wet season, this excursion is not possible and is always dependent on weather. Any big rain would make it dangerous as you are climbing and crossing the river several times. I was grateful to have my handy dry bag as I take it with me on every trip. It allowed me to bring my big camera with us. It was a quick hike (maybe 2 or 2.5 miles round trip) and we had a refreshing dip in the falls when we arrived. We slid down a natural slide on our return. We met some friends from Holland who enjoyed this shared experience with us and we giggled about it over dinner later that evening. It was time to say goodbye to Lake Natron, but not before visiting a Maasai village early the next morning. The Maasai women greeted us in song as the sun rose and we experienced their typical morning routine. I really enjoyed ending our time at Lake Natron on that lovely note, especially after receiving wonderful stories from Lemra and learning about his people the day before.

Lemra said there were a lot close to the shore that day - we were lucky.
Lemra said there were a lot close to the shore that day - we were lucky. (Franny Friesz)


Our journey continued with a long drive to the Serengeti. Even though it was a longer drive, it was much less rough and had enjoyable scenery along the way. The landscape continued to transform before our eyes from desert to lush, to trees and a bit more dry plains. We made a stop for lunch at the Klein Camp entrance and had a break to use the restroom. From there, we popped the roof and started our first Serengeti safari! I think our necks were sore from looking every which way because only a few minutes would pass before we encountered pockets of animals. There were wildebeest, zebra, impala, ostrich, elephants and our first lions (3 of 5!). There were a group of four females with one male and after watching them for a few minutes, we witnessed an intimate moment as the male mounted one of the females. Rama explained that they will mate every 15 minutes for a period of days while the female is in estrus. This will result in lion cubs about four months away during the rainy season when the lions will have a lot of food to enjoy - fascinating! It was getting dark which meant we needed to head to our home for the evening. I think the Serengeti Halisi Camp was my favorite. My husband agreed and he said it most felt like home. The atmosphere was relaxed, welcoming and exciting as we were in the midst of so many animal sounds. This is where we saw a hyena running through camp with a bucket and our first lion roars. The next morning, we enjoyed a hot air balloon for a completely different vantage point of the Serengeti. We continued our safari day with Rama and witnessed so many animals, it was hard to absorb. Wildebeest and zebra, as far as the eye can see, herds of elephants, hyenas digesting in mud puddles (and Rama giving a great rendition of what the hyena was saying to explain why he was in a puddle), hippo pools and yawns, a cheetah walking in the middle of the road and so much more. The Serengeti lived up to what I thought it might be and I was a kid again, enraptured by the beauty of the Lion King. Returning to our “home” that night, we were giddy and an awe. We shared our stories over a bottle of local beer with our new friend from Germany, Dennis. The next morning, we had a morning safari before breakfast. We visited a hippo pool to watch them come back from their night of grazing. We were lucky to catch a glimpse of a leopard (4 of 5!) and her two cubs. Rama saw with his amazing eagle eyes that there was a dead gazelle high in an acacia tree. We stopped and waited to watch the kill and sure enough the leopards came to protect their food. We returned to camp for lunch and to say goodbye to the amazing staff who helped us make this place home for two nights. We set off to drive south through the wide plains of the Serengeti towards Ngorongoro. On the way, we spotted a cheetah and her two cubs on their own version of pride rock - lovely way to end our Serengeti experience.

She went to a nearby tree that looked a lot more comfortable and less thorny.
She went to a nearby tree that looked a lot more comfortable and less thorny. (Franny Friesz)


​We enjoyed a lunch break and short hike at the Naabi Hill Gate where we saw our first souvenir shop since starting our trip. Rama reassured us to wait and we’re glad we did - plenty of opportunities to get souvenirs along the way and even at the airport where they had things for reasonable prices. We continued to the Ngorongoro conservation where we began to see our Maasai friends again. As it’s a conservation area, the original tribes who resided there are able to live there along with the animals. This place was unique as we saw more of the animals here intermingled with the cattle like giraffe and zebra. As we climbed elevation to the Ngorongoro crater rim, we felt the temperature dropping. We were at a deceivingly high elevation (almost 7,500 feet) which is 2,000 feet above the lowest part of the caldera. The entrance to the crater only allows you to be there for six hours total. That meant we were headed there the next day. We arrived to our next home for the night at Pakulala Safari Camp. This was one of the most luxurious camps we stayed at and a close second favorite. We were incredibly spoiled and had the place to ourselves. As the temperature was much cooler, the blankets on the beds were thicker and they even gave us a hot water bottle for our feet at night. They had my favorite bush TV area because it came with a view and popcorn. My husband and I enjoyed some Chilean wine (our last trip together included lots of Chilean wine) with our popcorn and the view. Our new friends including Victoria and Amos took great care of us that evening. The chef was amazing and we had the best meal of our entire stay. Victoria convinced us we were having hyena for dinner, but he must have run away with a bucket because we had some beef and pork chop instead. Another favorite about this camp is that we had non-human visitors! A few zebra grazed nearby and an elephant strolled into camp looking for water. After an amazing evening, delicious breakfast, and a sweet happy birthday goodbye for my husband, we set off to enjoy our few hours in the crater. Today is where we saw our rhino (5 of 5). Hats off to Rama for orchestrating great timing on his part to see all 5 of these creatures. It was a special day and we saw plenty of the same animals we saw before and a few new ones. I wish we had more time to search for lions, but we still had another park to help us out with that. 

We enjoyed seeing so many animals together, zebra, hippo, warthogs, and hyena all around the same pool.
We enjoyed seeing so many animals together, zebra, hippo, warthogs, and hyena all around the same pool. (Franny Friesz)


After lunch, we began the journey to Tarangire where Rafiki’s wheels finally met up with smooth pavement for the first time in a while. It was about a total of three hours to drive to the park and we saw a few animals on the way. We had a bit of a culture shock as the lodge had many more people than we encountered on our entire trip. We joined everyone at the beautiful overlook to watch the sun set and glimpse some animals moving below. This was the place to see elephants, for sure. Dinner was very special as the staff came out in Maasai clothing and sang happy birthday to my husband. They even had a cake made for him. With a great birthday under his belt, we went to bed happy and excited for our last day on safari. We witnessed a “reunion” of elephants who usually travel in groups of 10. We could have sat there and watched them all day, especially one baby who was making us laugh. He was so playful and clumsy. My favorite part of this day was seeing a lioness stalk a herd of zebra and attempt to take one down. To add a cherry on top, we even witnessed giraffe drinking water which is always something enjoyable to see. As we headed back to the lodge for lunch, we also saw a couple of male lions lounging under a tree not too far from the road. We had a short time in Tarangire, but it was full of special sightings.

The little one lying on the ground was by far my favorite.
The little one lying on the ground was by far my favorite. (Franny Friesz)


Each park was so different and had a lot to offer as far as experience and animal sightings. That being said, each season, day, car and guide will provide a different experience for these destinations. It’s important not to expect anything when you start your day and you will always be pleasantly surprised. 
 

Zanzibar Days

Nov 18, 2019
We ended our trip with a few days in beautiful Zanzibar. It’s important to be mindful of the change in culture as you travel to Zanzibar as it’s not the typical beach vacation you may have in mind. You are encouraged to be more modest when enjoying the sunshine and warm water of the Indian Ocean. I wore a swimsuit cover that also covered my shoulders. While swimming, you are welcome to strip down to your suit and enjoy the water. It doesn’t hurt to keep covered so you prevent yourself from burning as well. 

Off to Zanzibar on a tiny plane.
Off to Zanzibar on a tiny plane. (Franny Friesz)


We had one night in Stonetown before continuing north to the Nungwi beach area. In Stonetown, it was nice to experience the bustling city, close access to the beach, as well as night markets to enjoy some fresh seafood. On our way north, we stopped to try out a Spice Tour. I would highly recommend one if visiting Zanzibar. We again, brought our rainy blessings and our spice tour guides did their best to show us all of the plants and fruits on the farm during the storm. We didn’t mind as the rain was warm and tropical. Many of these spices and plants were new to us and we had only seen them in powder form or dried in bags. It was really special to see their origin and how proud these guides were of their product. Our guide, Idi, was knowledgeable and really fun. He had an assistant guide we called Tarzan who was really sweet and creative. He would always climb a tree to get us some fruits to test (why we called him Tarzan). Along the way, he would weave small gifts for us from palm leaves and flowers. He made me a ring, bracelet, necklace and crown. He made a tie for my husband, bracelet and crown. We were the King and Queen of spice by the end of the tour! We had the opportunity to try some fresh fruits and buy spices directly from the company. I was excited to take them home and try to replicate the Tanzanian soup I had come to love. 

They made us King and Queen of the spices by the end.
They made us King and Queen of the spices by the end. (Franny Friesz)


We continued north to enjoy our time on the beach for the next day and a half. We arrived early afternoon and took a walk up the beach to a turtle aquarium. We learned about how they were working hard to save the sea turtles and return them to the sea when they are strong. We enjoyed a delicious dinner at our hotel, Flametree Cottages, that was right next to the beach. It was still a bit rainy that evening so we didn’t see the sunset, but it was still beautiful. The next morning, we woke early to take a ride on horses at sunrise. I love riding horses every chance I get and try to do it whenever I travel. I did some research and a newer stable had opened up about a year ago called Zanzibar Horse Club. They had some pretty happy horses and it was special to ride on the beach. Our guides were very kind and we really enjoyed the experience. 
Horseback riding on the beach was definitely a highlight.
Horseback riding on the beach was definitely a highlight. (Franny Friesz)


We signed up for a few other activities directly with the hotel and our next one was snorkeling. Two guides took us out on their boat to snorkel for a bit at Kendwa Coral Garden.This was our first time in the Indian Ocean - it was lovely and warm! The snorkeling was a bit cloudy which I think was because of the rain storm the day before. Even so, we did see lots of fish and enjoyed swimming around and exploring the reef. On the journey back to the hotel, our guides offered to sail. It was amazing to see how they used their mast and sails to pivot as they changed directions. These men were strong and talented. We had a great outing with them. Our next scheduled event at the hotel was henna and a massage for my husband. They had a lovely outdoor massage table and they were able to do my henna next to him. We had some time to enjoy the sunshine and pool before our sunset cruise at 5 PM. This was similar to our snorkel sail, but we had a beautiful setting sun to enjoy. This sunset definitely made up for the night before and it was a glorious way to say goodbye to beautiful Tanzania. We packed our days full at the beach but it was still lovely and relaxing. It was nice to walk a bit and stretch our legs after being in the car and on safari. We enjoyed all our activities and I would recommend them to anyone to enjoy your beach days and last bit of time in Tanzania to the fullest. 

Feeding them was so much fun.
Feeding them was so much fun. (Franny Friesz)

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