In Steinbeck's Wake: An Epic Voyage Through the Sea of Cortez

Step aboard the Safari Voyager and make yourself at home. La Paz is famous for its stunning sunsets, so be sure to have a glass of champagne on deck as you begin your journey to the secluded islands of the Northern Gulf of California.

Early this morning, the ship anchors off Punta Marcial. You'll have the opportunity to explore the intertidal zone, searching for various marine creatures. This is also a great time to learn safe techniques for kayaking, paddleboarding, snorkeling, and taking a skiff ride. Punta Marcial is a site with historic significance. During lunch, the ship will set course for nearby Isla Catalina, where you might spot the world’s largest barrel cactus or, if fortunate, catch a glimpse of the rare, rattle-less rattlesnake. Fancy a snorkel at Elephant Rock? As the sun sets, the ship sails toward Santa Rosalia Town.

This morning will be spent searching for Blue and Fin whales that frequent the navigational corridor between Isla Catalina and Sant Rosalia. This afternoon we visit what was a bustling French mining town from the 1880’s, you will find Santa Rosalia to possess a flavor of that early charm, even today. This town is like no other in all of Mexico…they even have a French bakery. Take the opportunity to view many of the historic structures and take an included walking tour to Gustave Eiffel’s Church of Santa Barbara (Eiffel’s Tower fame), the French Bakery, and the Mining Museum…how about Boleo history? We will be in town until late. Your guides will have these and other activities available throughout the day.

This is a very rarely visited area without easy access. Great snorkeling, beach walks, and hikes in the interior of the Baja Peninsula are available. Also, to the north is Roca el Rasito which is a great spot for bird life and experienced snorkelers. Guides will take you to areas where Steinbeck visited and logged the marine and terrestrial life he found. If conditions allow, you may choose the first longer kayak outing on the cruise.

This bay and the little town are considered the “Marine Oasis of Baja California” due to the abundant aquatic life. This lovely area is also one of the finest boating areas in the Baja area. Perfect for kayaking and small boat excursions and ventures ashore such as hikes to Punta Gringa, visits to the nature museum, and even possible swims with whale sharks. This is also a great chance to take guided walks and hikes or be on your own. This area is also known as one of the few places in Baja where the famed, and huge, Leatherback Turtle can be spotted. For those who enjoyed reading the “Log from The Sea of Cortes,” we will have the opportunity to visit a nearby Stenbeck site.

This is the northernmost point of your journey and a special place that Captain Dan has always enjoyed returning to. This secluded and protected area is well-known among local fishermen and yacht enthusiasts as one of the most scenic and sheltered spots in the Gulf of California. You’ll have the entire day to soak in this yachter’s paradise. All activities are available today, and perhaps you’ll have the chance to enjoy a campfire before dinner.

Field notes from the research trip capture the experience best. 'You went up the main arroyo that divides the island. You encountered numerous Pinto Chuckwallas, who would slap their tails hard on the ground as they scurried off. The hike was rigorous but enjoyed by everyone. You discovered hundreds of sea lions basking along the island's south shore. Pelicans, boobies, terns, cormorants, gulls, and ospreys were abundant along this rugged coast. After landing on the gravel bar, you found bones of several marine mammals.'

Early this afternoon, you will set out on your first dedicated marine mammal search. Keep an eye out for Blue, Fin, Sperm, Orca, and Pilot whales that frequent this area. Known as the Canal de Salsipuedes, but also referred to by mariners as the Trench due to its extreme depths, this area charts a depth of 4,860 feet! Large groups of sperm whales feed on Humboldt squid here. You may come across several groups of these whales and spend several hours observing these mighty-toothed whales. Blows can be seen for miles, with a conservative estimate putting the number at about eighty animals in an area roughly six miles by six miles—a sight you'll never forget. Among these giants, you might spot several small pods of bottlenose dolphins.

This morning the Safari Voyager will drop the hook in the waters of Bahia Concepcion, deep in the inlet that opens to the North. We will spend the first half of the day playing in this waterborne desert, soaking up the sun and settling into the vibe. You may choose to stay onboard and enjoy the scenery, go ashore for varying levels of activities, or simply settle in at the beach camp. For those who have an interest, join us in exploring one of John Steinbeck’s sites here. Be on the watch for dolphins and turtles that frequent this area. We will pull the anchor after lunch and work your way North in this long inlet before rounding the point and heading south. This is an excellent time to be on deck and watch marine mammals as we turn south for Cayo-Amatortajda, a lagoon on a desert island.” 

We arrive at this epic location before noon. This area seems like an odd landscape given the nature of this desert sea. Behold this shallow, but large interior lagoon on Isla San Jose. Perfect for bird watching and perhaps a kayak trip. You will likely find this area to be as appealing to you as it was Steinbeck. Outside the lagoon are long beaches, superb for beachcombing or taking it easy. We will be here until late, so come on deck after dinner and star gaze, with no ambient light nearby, it is amazing. 

We will spend the entire day at one, or both, of these nearby locations. All activities will be available along with the final Steinbeck site at Punta Lobos. This is an amazing area and part of the Biosphere National Park. Tonight is the official Captain's Dinner with a wide selection of images that will be shared with all aboard the Safari Voyager.

Disembark this morning after breakfast.