In the morning, sail slightly eastwards towards Ikateq, a spectacular fjord with a fascinating history. During the darkest days of the Second World War, American forces established an airbase here (one of the network of air bases which includes Kangerlussuaq on the west coast) to serve as a stepping stone for aircraft transiting between Europe and North America. The rugged landscape of East Greenland meant the approach to the airport was hazardous, with frequent fog masking the treacherous mountains. Enormous resources were invested into Ikateq Airbase (Blue 2 East), with a 5,000ft runway, hangar, barracks, and port constructed. A fleet of military vehicles and thousands of barrels of fuel were also brought to this remote region. With Germany defeated, improvements to intercontinental aircraft, and increasing tensions with the Soviet Union, the United States Military abandoned the base in 1947, leaving almost everything behind.
The air base has been a contention between Nuuk, Copenhagen, and Washington for many years. Many in the Greenlandic government wanted the site cleaned up and the ruins removed, an expensive and logistically challenging task. Eventually, the Danish Government agreed to remove hazardous waste from the site (mainly decaying fuel drums), but leaving the rest of the equipment in place as an essential part of regional history. Over 75 years later, however, almost everything remains as it was on the day the Americans left. Ikateq is a unique place, a time warp to the Second World War: eerie, fascinating, and surrounded by staggering natural beauty.
Spend the afternoon in the small village of Kuummiut, which sits in breathtaking surroundings in the calm reaches of Ammassalik Fjord. Kuummiut - meaning 'People who Live by the River' - is one of the area's largest and most prosperous villages. Sitting upon some of East Greenland's richest fishing grounds, Kuummiut holds the only fish factory in the region, and fishermen from miles around come through Ammassalik Fjord (which is wide enough to stay primarily ice-free year-round) to sell their catch here.
Kuummiut is an ideal place to experience life in an East Greenlandic settlement. Where other towns have traffic, Kuummiut has the yowling of sled dogs and the sigh of the wind through the grass. No roads lead in or out of this isolated village, and the sea is the highway for local transport - although motorboats have replaced the skinboats that brought people to these shores long ago. It is a perfect place to sit, watch the icebergs pass, and perhaps see the whales, which often frolic in the calm waters offshore.
From Kuummiut, continue to navigate through the labyrinth of fjords, heading towards Sermilik.