Patagonia W route trek and Atacama Desert extension: How to sum up this trip? Of course it was a chance to see spectacular scenery, meet new people, and experience a different culture. Being open to learning about such things, knowing I will also learn more about myself, is what makes adventure travel so rewarding. Also, it's way fun.
As I prepare for another Adventure Life trip I resolve to try the trip journal contest again, having inexplicably failed to win last time. I humbly consider where I went wrong that time. Too long? too short? too irreverent? too (I whisper) poorly written? That last trip, to Costa Rica, was so wonderful the journal practically wrote itself. Maybe I should try plagiarizing Bruce Chatwin. Nah, the judges have probably read that book.
With only 12 hours before leaving for the airport I realize I may be missing some flight confirmation codes (my fault). Well, no need to rush these things! Thanks to Laura at Adventure Life and Exito travel those concerns are quickly handled.
Departure Day
Dec 08, 2011
It's always good to have a travel day with no exciting anecdotes. From Portland, OR to a transfer at Los Angeles. A long overnight flight to Santiago with a brief stop in Lima. Luggage arrives with me in Santiago. It's always a welcome sight when that duffel bag comes down the conveyer belt. By this time it is early morning on Dec. 9.
Punta Arenas
Dec 09, 2011
There was a long layover in Santiago, which was fine since long lines were encountered to pay the reciprocal entry tax and to go through customs.
During the flight to Punta Arenas I had my first encounter with Chilean hospitality. The couple sitting next to me were locals who very much welcomed me to their beloved Patagonia. They traveled quite a lot and noted this was their first landing at Punta Arenas without high winds. Maybe a good omen!
It had been a long trip and it may be surprising that there is a 5-hour time difference from the West coast. But the Hotel Rey Don Felipe was very comfortable. Before finally settling in, I bought a nice Malbec at a nearby grocery. Chile is noted for its wine, so I wanted to get a good start.
Exploring Punta Arenas
Dec 10, 2011
Travel helps make us be open for new experiences. An example today was just to have a conversation with my new friend Carolyn. We met in the hotel lobby. She had just completed the W route that I was about to start and had useful tips. We ended up spending the afternoon together, walking around the city and quickly becoming friends before I saw her off for a cruise in Tierra del Fuego. We had a leisurely lunch at La Luna, a place I highly recommend. Sightseeing included the city park with its statue of Magellan and the waterfront.
Today was my first time to experience the wind for which Patagonia is known. I could have used the big feet of the legendary Patagons. There were a few times I could have literally been blown over if I had let down my guard.
That evening I met my roommate, Margie. We were both solo travelers and Adventure Life had been able to put us together. So another friendship was kindled. After her long trip from Utah, she was happy to help me finish the Malbec while we got acquainted.
Penguins and more penguins
Dec 11, 2011
We had an early morning departure for a day trip to Magdalena Island, home to about 100,000 Magellanic penguins. This was a chance to be up very close with these always cute birds without upsetting their routine. The humans keep to the paths so the penguins are used to ignoring them, not feeling threatened. One even tried to peck at Margie's leg. She had done nothing to deserve this and doesn't smell like herring so I guess the penguin was just having a bad day. There was also a stop at Marta Island to see the elephant seal colony there.
In the afternoon we had a 3 hr bus ride to Puerto Natales. This was probably the most comfortable bus I've ever been on. The in-ride movie was a western science fiction film, Cowboys and Aliens. The terrain was nearly flat, an example of the Patagonia known for its wide expanses with nothing to slow down the wind of the far southern latitudes. But the mountains that we were heading toward soon loomed in the distance.
Our lodging was Hotel Weskar, a nice place on the outskirts of town. Of course we had the complementary Pisco Sour there before dinner at the Aldea restaurant. The Chilean Beef there was the best beef dish I can remember ever having.
Last Hope Fjord
Dec 12, 2011
Puerto Natales is the jumping off point for trips into Torres del Paine. It has a town mascot; the Milodon. This extinct giant mammal is commemorated with a statue at the entrance to town. The nearby Milodon cave, where fossils of this big boy were found, is a significant feature of the classic Chatwin book, In Patagonia.
We started with a boat ride up the fjord, which turns into the Serrano River, and although day was clear the wind kicked up waves forcing the boat to turn around. However, we picked up the trip from the far end and went downriver by zodiac, enjoying more views of the mountains and getting up close to the glaciers, including Tyndall and Serrano. This included a short hike to the lake below the Serrano glacier, where icebergs floated and then jammed up it the outlet of the lake. An interesting place was the confluence of the milky glacial waters of the Grey River and the blue waters of the Serrano River.
From there we were driven up to Torres del Paine and soon were treated to views that gave us a taste of the adventure to come.
Start the W route
Dec 13, 2011
EcoCamp sits below the Torres and the snowy Mt. Almirante. The weather continued to be un-Patagonian, warm and calm. So the views even from our dome's skylight were spectacular. Our group of 13, plus 2 guides had met over the nightly Pisco Sours the previous evening. It was an enthusiastic mix of Australians, Americans and South Africans.
Heading up the trial between the rugged, rocky Cuernos (horns) del Paine and a long, beautiful lake (Lago Nordenskjold) that morning got us warmed up quickly. I soon found my place at the tail end of the group. I thought of them as the peloton, but I never got close enough to be able to use them to draft. Partly I was taking photos and partly they were triathletes.
My notes make me realize that I quickly ran out of superlatives about this place. The Cuernos refugio had comfortable cabins and a waterfall that would warrant a park designation just by itself.
French Valley
Dec 14, 2011
Our schedule alternated easy and hard days. Yesterday was an 11 km easy day. Today was 25 km, so no question that it was one of the hard days. From the Cuernos refugio we continued under clear skies to the middle of the W in the W route, the French Valley.
After continuing to skirt below the Cuernos and looking ahead at the massive Paine Grande peak, the trail turned up (and I do mean up) along the French River. This river with its rocky cascades paralleled our route as the trail climbed higher above it. This gave us views of the other side of the Cuernos, a peek at the back of the Torres and a panorama of lakes and mountains in all directions. The Shark Fin was an especially distinctive feature.
My position far at the back of the pack became more pronounced as I developed significant problems with my feet and toes. If there was a consolation it was in discovering enough toughness to persevere. How often would there be such perfect conditions and would I ever be able to return? I remembered the days when I would have kept up with those young hikers (and admittedly some my age too). But I hope never to lose my love for these wild places and I hope they are still there for these next generations.
Grey Glacier
Dec 15, 2011
Last night we stayed at the Refugio Paine Grande. This nestled below the back aspect of Paine Grande and across from Lago Pehoe. When I took off my boots last night I saw why I had been in so much pain. Inflammation and infection of my toenails was so bad I was unable to participate in today's hike, ironically probably the easiest one of the week. It included a boat ride to the base of Grey Glacier. Another reminder to appreciate these activities while we can. Sarah, another hiker in the group was also unable to hike today. I was sorry for her, but appreciated her excellent company.
So we saw the rest of the group off for the left leg of the W then later boarded the catamaran across Lago Pehoe. This was a scenic alternative that enabled us to meet the rest of the group after completing their trip across Lago Grey. We could see the glacier in the distance at the far end of the lake. Large icebergs floated nearby. Small remnants of ice reached the pebbly beach. One wondered how long ago the ice of these intricately-shaped fragments had been formed deep in the glacier. Everyone jokingly said that we hadn't missed much.
That evening we were back at EcoCamp for the final 2 nights.
Base of Torres del Paine
Dec 16, 2011
Another long hike was in store today. The trail to the base of Torres del Paine is the right leg of the W. There was no way I would miss that. Fortunately the weather remained good so I hiked in running shoes. A mere 20 km today but more total elevation gains than the French Valley. As we worked our way up the Rio Ascencio valley our early elevation gains were lost as we dropped to the river. Then we immediately started relentlessly back up. Our destination was not visible for much of the way. That made the pay-off that much more appreciated as we scrambled up a scree slope and the tops of the Torres reappeared. Then finally one last scramble and the entire vista lay before us. A milky green lake in a rugged depression below the granite pinnacles of the towers straight ahead and over a thousand feet above the lake. Seeing this sight was a bucket-list moment and it lived up to the years of anticipation.
Margie joined me at the back of the pack the long way down. But we had made it. The W route was securely in our memories.
Eastern Lakes
Dec 17, 2011
This was a day of easy hikes and new areas in the park to see. A few miles of gentle hiking took us past guanacos grazing among the low vegetation. A few were doing (wink) what guanacos do. Our high point was a rocky mesa with views across to the now familiar peaks. There were pictographs from ancient inhabitants below ledges at its base. A condor buzzed by our heads as we stood atop the mesa. Before the day was done our wildlife encounters would include rheas, ibises and more condors.
Another high point was Cascada Paine, a wide powerful waterfall that would be incredible even without the Torres to lend a backdrop. At Lago Azul there was an opportunity for our cameras to capture one of the most iconic views of the Torres.
Back at EcoCamp for the last night we all lingered after dinner reflecting on our week together, our new memories and friendships, before going our separate ways the next morning.
I should not fail to mention the staff and facilities at EcoCamp. The food was outstanding and interesting. Considering the remoteness it is quite an operation. Their commitment to environmentally low-profile tourism is very commendable.
Travel day
Dec 18, 2011
Several of us made our way back by van through Puerto Natales and back to Punta Arenas where Margie and I caught our flight to Santiago. After a brief layover there, our early morning flight would take us to a completely different part of Chile--the Atacama Desert in the north.
Atacama Desert
Dec 19, 2011
Our flight from Santiago went north to the city of Calama and then it was over an hour by van to the small town San Pedro de Atacama. Ironically, in Patagonia we never were very far above sea level but here we were at 8000' elevation. This desert is reportedly the driest place on earth. After a week in Patagonia with nothing but good weather, that trend was a given here. San Pedro is a small town of low structures, muted tones and narrow dirt roads.
It was a low-key day, which I appreciated since acclimating to the altitude would get things off to a good start. Our accommodations at Terrantai Lodge were quite nice. An internet connection enabled us to check on the rest of the world after a week away. I would call that a mixed blessing.
An afternoon excursion to ancient ruins included the Tulor village and the fortress Pukara de Quitor. These structures date back to about 800 AD. The altitude was obvious to me as we climbed to the top of Pukara. It wasn't much of a problem for Margie, who lives at 5000.' Our final stop was the archaeological museum in town, which helped give a context to the ruins.
Tatio Geyser Basin and Valley of the Moon
Dec 20, 2011
Among the superlatives to mention, the Tatio geyser basin is the highest such area in the world at about 14,000.' The chance to have acclimated came in handy, although the walks at the basin were not difficult. There was a very early start for the 1 1/2 hr drive since the plan was to be there for sunrise. The dramatic effects of the steam and geysers were enhanced by the cold pre-dawn hours. The geysers here are low bubbling pools rather than high intermittent eruptions. The dawn light on the surrounding peaks also made the early start worthwhile. Not to mention the hot chocolate and coffee breakfast when we got back to the van.
There were other stops on the drive back. We could better see the mountains in the distance, including volcanoes with steam erupting from their summits. A stop at the Putana River was a chance for some wildlife photos. The viscacha looks like a rabbit with a long tail. There were many vicunas throughout the area. A small isolated village, Machuca, was notable to me because of the juxtaposition of small homes with thatched roofs but also solar panels.
This was a very full day because we still had an excursion to the spectacular Valley of the Moon in the afternoon. It was an area of slot canyons, sand, fantastic rock formations and cliffs of salt. The area is part of the Cordillera de Sal--the Salt Mountain Range. Short hikes took us through Cari's Gulch, the sand dunes of 'the Canyon', the amphitheater, the 3 Marias and the misnamed Death Valley. From our viewpoint toward Death Valley we could see sandboarders and the giant dune that they would glide down as if it were snow. The day culminated with going to a high view point to watch sunset light up the terrain while we enjoyed a nice spread of cheese and wine.
Altiplanic lakes
Dec 21, 2011
The excursion today included salt flats, high lakes and a close look at several species of flamingos.
Our first stop was the small, charming village of Toconao. We stopped in at their church, the public square and a shop with its resident llama.
The first altiplanic (Spanish for high plain) lake was Laguna de Chaxa, site of a flamingo reserve. We had close-up looks at 3 species of flamingos, busy feeding in the shallows. Quite photogenic with their reflections in the water nearly as bright as the birds themselves.
At our next destination, Lagunas Miniques and Miscanti, we were at about 13,000' but our short hike along the shore was fairly level, so the altitude wasn't a problem. These small lakes with their high mountain backdrops were a fine finish for another full day.
That evening Margie and I enjoyed a bottle of Carmenere in our quest to experience more of Chile's great wines.
Laguna Sejar
Dec 22, 2011
This was a low key day that was a chance to gear up for the trip home the next day.
The morning excursion to Laguna Sejar started with just a short drive. The high salinity of the water and the proximity to San Pedro make for a popular place to experience the effect of swimming without being able to sink. There were a few flamingos nearby as well.
Our afternoon was free for a last walk around town. Then the packing for home, always a time of mixed feelings, before dinner at another good local restaurant.
Homeward bound
Dec 23, 2011
The early departure to drive back to Calama and then fly back to Santiago was the start of the long but uneventful trip home. This is a chance to give kudos to Adventure-Life and its partners for the smooth connections that I've always had. Whether it has been airplanes, buses, vans or boats the connection was always there. My record was 9 different vehicles in one day to get from the Galapagos Islands back to mainland Ecuador.
How to sum up this trip? Of course it was a chance to see spectacular scenery, meet new people, and experience a different culture. Being open to learning about such things, knowing I will also learn more about myself, is what makes adventure travel so rewarding.
Excellent communication and coordination for our proposed trip. It couldn't have been smoother, and any question we did have was rapidly addressed. It has made the whole process nearly seamless.
Quinn Johnson
2 months ago
We were referred by a satisfied client and the booking of the trip was everything we wanted to do, and they listened to the types of hotels, sightseeing, etc. we wanted to do.
Jan S
2 months ago
Rapa Nui was on my bucket list for a long time so I worried that it would not meet my expectations. Our tour could not have been better. Our guide was knowledgeable and professional with an understanding of the island that made it come alive. I would and have recommended this trip to everyone that will listen.
elisa wright
2 months ago
Mary Curry is the BEST! I have worked with her for multiple family trips for over 10 years, and she is responsive, works within your preferences and budget, has great suggestions and has personal travel experience at many of the locations. We prefer active family vacations and Adventure Life and Mary Curry make sure that is what we get!
Heather Spanbauer
3 months ago
My tour operator was helpful. Unfortunately she was unable to get my single-supplement canceled. Not too many tours charge for that anymore and I almost canceled my trip because of that.
Joel
4 months ago
Excellent communication and coordination for our proposed trip. It couldn't have been smoother, and any question we did have was rapidly addressed. It has made the whole process nearly seamless.
Quinn Johnson
2 months ago
We were referred by a satisfied client and the booking of the trip was everything we wanted to do, and they listened to the types of hotels, sightseeing, etc. we wanted to do.
Jan S
2 months ago
Rapa Nui was on my bucket list for a long time so I worried that it would not meet my expectations. Our tour could not have been better. Our guide was knowledgeable and professional with an understanding of the island that made it come alive. I would and have recommended this trip to everyone that will listen.
elisa wright
2 months ago
Mary Curry is the BEST! I have worked with her for multiple family trips for over 10 years, and she is responsive, works within your preferences and budget, has great suggestions and has personal travel experience at many of the locations. We prefer active family vacations and Adventure Life and Mary Curry make sure that is what we get!
Heather Spanbauer
3 months ago
My tour operator was helpful. Unfortunately she was unable to get my single-supplement canceled. Not too many tours charge for that anymore and I almost canceled my trip because of that.
Joel
4 months ago
Excellent communication and coordination for our proposed trip. It couldn't have been smoother, and any question we did have was rapidly addressed. It has made the whole process nearly seamless.
We use cookies to give you the best experience on our website. Continue browsing the site if you're ok with this. For more info, please see our privacy policy.