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Rivers, Jungles, Beaches and Bats

Beach life is tough!
Beach life is tough!
Steve’s 9 day adventure in Costa Rica & Panama, including rafting on the Pacuare River, Selva Bananito Lodge, Tranquilo Bay, the Panama Canal, jungle hikes, bird watching, sea kayaking, beaches, and a bat cave!
All Photos

Photo Album

Flight from Boston, MA (USA) to San Jose, Costa Rica

Mar 10, 2009
A room with a view at Selva Bananito Lodge!
A room with a view at Selva Bananito Lodge! (Stephen Smith)
Craig was kind enough to wake up ridiculously early to drive me to the airport at 4:00am. My 6:50am Miami flight was on time, and I got to Costa Rica’s San Jose Airport at 1:30pm as expected. Went through customs, exited the airport onto the hot sidewalk and nearly went with the wrong driver. He was holding a sign with my last name and "Esteban" as the first name, which is Spanish for Stephen. But I quickly saw an Adventure Life sign with my name on it, and fixed the situation. On the way to the Hotel Le Bergerac, the taxi got a flat. I sat in the car while he fixed it (he insisted). The hotel was simple but nice, with a bed, TV, desk, and nice bathroom with double sinks and a nice shower. The room had a door to a semi-private outdoor sitting area with a table and chairs. All the rooms backed up to this shared space, but tall bushes gave each room a private feel. After checking in and making a 6:00pm reservation at the on site French Restaurant, I read my book (Into the Wild, by Jon Krakauer) outside in the courtyard until dinner. At dinner I had the local beer Imperial, beef tenderloin with mushrooms, scalloped potatoes, and broccoli. Requested a 5:00am wakeup call with 5:30am coffee at my room. I got to bed early, around 10pm.

River Rafting on the Pacuare River!

Mar 11, 2009
Hotel Le Bergerac, San Jose Costa Rica
Hotel Le Bergerac, San Jose Costa Rica (Stephen Smith)
Woke at 5:00am, showered, had coffee, and ready for my 6:20am river rafting pickup! At the front desk, I bought a big bottle of water and converted $100(US) into a good mix of Costa Rican Colons (about $2 for every 1000 colon). At 6:30am a guide from the rafting company, Daniel (aka “Pinky”, from the cartoon “Pinky and the Brain”), picked me up at the hotel. In the mini bus were the driver and a young D.C. couple. We picked up a few more folks and then headed to the rafting base location, about 2 hours away. All along the winding highway, we pass several volcanoes. Deeper into the forest region we start to see little waterfalls along the road. Washouts are very common here. We picked up “The French People” just before reaching the base (there were 5 of them, playfully coined that by most of us as we tried to get their attention for the safety briefing. They were very excitable!) There we were greeted by several staff and a nice breakfast of rice and beans (everything in Costa Rica has rice and beans!), eggs, cocktail weenies(!) fruit, juice, and coffee. After breakfast we head out in two big vans to the river. Along the way we were instructed in the 5 commands we would use on the river: forward, stop, back paddle left/right, watch out, and get down. We drove down a bumpy road to the river, but the last half mile was a walk down a steep 4x4 road to the rivers edge. At the river were 4 boats, a pickup and jeep, three rescue kayakers with full gear, the guides, and several waterproof canisters. We got our helmets, vests and paddles, and wore only sandals (Tivas), swim shorts, and a tee shirt. I didn’t dare wear my glasses. I didn’t want to risk losing them or taking a paddle to the face. Everyone also brings sun block, and the staff stows these in the canisters when we hit the river. Each of the 4 boats held 6 guests and the guide. In my boat were the DC couple (front left and right), myself (middle left), three college girls from Emory, and Pinky the guide at the rear. I commended the girls for their fine choice of a Spring Break adventure in Costa Rica, rather than the usual Florida/Cancun thing. The river rafting trip was the best adventure I have ever had! After warming up with some class 1 & 2 rapids, we quickly had a streak of class 3 and 4 rapids, each with its own funny name. We saw iridescent blue butterflies, hanging bird nests, lizards, herons, and Toucans. During the pause between each exciting set of rapids, we would all “high five” with the paddles shouting “Pura Vida” (a Costa Rican gesture meaning pure life, going great, this is living, etc…). Along the way, there are strategically located staff with cameras, taking pictures for the photo CD they sell after the trip (which I of course bought!). During one long calm stretch of water, we all jumped out of the boat to swim (except the guide of course). To get back in, someone on the boat pulls you up by the shoulders of your life vest. No one in our boat fell out during the 18 mile, 4 hour trip, although a few people fell out of the other boats at some point. Along the way, people playfully splash each other with water, and seem to get mildly agitated while at it. This is particularly silly since we are all completely drenched from head to toe anyway! At one point we hit a wall of water so high it broke over the bow, submerging all of us for a good two seconds. Generally you sit in a twisted stance, with your butt on the side pontoon of the boat, the outside foot wedged between the pontoon and floor, and the other at 90 degrees, tucked under the seat-like cross member of the boat. As big ones approach Pinky would caution, “Okay, good foot positions for this one!” After a few well placed “forward, or hard-left!” commands, we would occasionally be lucky enough to hear him call out “get down!” and we all abandon our stances and sit low and straight, as a cool wave breaks in our faces, leading to that happy involuntary gasp! Note: As I sit writing this in the quiet of my Selva Bananito lodge, I am being watched by a fluorescent blue high-pitched high-frequency fly. He just kind of hovers, then moves several feet in mere milliseconds and hovers there instead… How cool is that! At about the two thirds point in our river journey, we pull over for lunch. We park the boats at an area they use with a set of hand made tables and benches, and the staff brings the watertight containers ashore. Inside are all the ingredients for a great lunch. They cut up fresh watermelon, cantaloupe and pineapple. Then they slice up tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers and peppers, and lay out ham and turkey, salsa, chips, nuts, bread and tortilla wraps. They even have a camp stove and gently warm/toast each wrap! Also available were some cookies and sugar coated peanuts, which felt like great fuel as we stood there just slightly shivering in our wet life vests and dripping shorts. A small shower also started at this time, but it wasn’t enough to dampen anyone’s good spirits. After about 30 minutes we were back on the river. Along the way, the three rescue kayakers constantly zip around, spinning in rapid swirls, rolling over sideways, and even rolling over forward! They have total command of the situation, heading both up and down stream with equal ease, sometimes surfing backwards up waves. All along the route there were waterfalls feeding into the main river. At one point a waterfall spilled over an undercut ledge, so it rained like a 10-ft wide shower head over the entire left half of the river. So naturally, we steer towards the left! As the journey comes to an end, we pass under a highway bridge, were cars and trucks beep to us as they wave and pass overhead. Just after the road was the take out point, which is right at base camp. We simply climb out, walk up to the bar, grab a beer, and start to get our stuff ready (we put our bags in a big locked cabinet at base before the trip). After changing into dry clothes, we finish our drinks, rest up, and glance at the preview of our own custom photo-CD, shot just hours before on the river. I bought one, along with a tee-shirt. The DC couple had a waterproof camera and took some nice shots, including some of me, so I gave them my email and they sent me some of the pictures. Off to Selva Bananito Lodge Next we split up into two vans heading off in separate directions: one West to San Jose and the other East towards Limon and the Caribbean coast. I was accompanied by 6 other guests along this 90 minute ride. Along the bumpy road the driver stops on the side of the road to observe a family of howler monkeys playing and eating in the trees on the side of the road. They don’t yell for us, they just sit and eat. We turned off the main road for about 15 minutes to get me to my drop off point. The itinerary says I would meet my driver for Selva Bananito at 4:30pm, and we arrived at 4:28pm, no kidding! I met the driver and we made the harrowing 45 minute 4x4 drive to the lodge. Along the way we crossed a narrow ridge, and had to cross a few rivers, one of which was halfway up the side of the jeep! The crossing was nerve wracking, as we skidded left and right over loose boulders under the water. But we made it. About halfway there I saw the last electric/phone line head in the other direction. The lodge has no electricity and is truly in the middle of nowhere on an old farm site. We arrived at the lodge at about 5:30pm, before sunset. Lisa, a German volunteer at the lodge, was there to direct us towards my cabin. After the driver left she showed me the cabin, explained the basics, showed me my gas lamp and flashlight, and told me to come over to the main building for cocktails at 6:30pm. I decompressed in the hammock for a while after dropping off my bags and getting settled. The room was absolutely beautiful. A square cabin on 6 ft stilts, it has 3 walls, a tile floor, and a sturdy roof. The forth wall could be closed with a set of bi-fold doors, but why would anyone want to do that? The jungle sits just outside, with a stunning horizon of mountains in the distance. Although I still can’t believe this, there are (almost) no mosquitoes at all. I don’t know how I could sleep in the middle of a jungle at 9 degrees latitude, totally open to the air with no mosquito net (although they do provide one), and not get a single bite of even an annoyance (not counting that funky blue fly!). At 6:30pm I headed over for cocktails and dinner. Armed with my flashlight, I made my way along the path to the main building. Although it was dark, the path is lighted by tiki torches and gave no problems. The lodge provides flashlights, but I chose to use my compact LED flashlight given to me by a coworker, and it worked great! The main building and the cabins have a strict “shoes off” policy for obvious reasons. The floors are nice, and the jungle is muddy! Gusto, the main staff member and primary guide at the lodge, gave us fancy rum drinks served in coconuts. There were two other couples: a younger French couple and an older Swiss couple. We mingled awkwardly for a bit, but then warmed up. After all, there were four languages of conversation going on: French, German, Spanish and English. Most of them knew 2 or 3 languages, and thankfully every one spoke English to some extent. But many things transcend languages, and we all had a nice dinner. Before dinner we used a flashlight to show the glowing eyes of a pair of caiman (small alligators) in the pond just off the main lodge building. Gusto, Lisa, and the owner Jurgen joined us for dinner, which consisted of salad, followed by chicken, mashed potatoes, veggies, and of course rice and beans! Each meal was served with some type of freshly squeezed juice, seeds pulp and all. Tonight’s was Tamarind juice. Dessert was a dish of bananas with a chocolate-like sauce. After more fun conversation, we headed back to our cabins, where I went to bed around 9:00pm. Before bed, I did some journaling by candlelight, and watched the hundreds of fireflies dart about in the jungle view.

Jungle Hike (and some down time)

Mar 12, 2009
What a bathroom!
What a bathroom! (Stephen Smith)
Woke at 6:00am after a good nights sleep. I can’t believe, no mosquitoes! The birds were pretty loud by this point in the morning, but nothing unbearable. Personally I loved it. Got cleaned up, dressed, and headed off to breakfast at 7:30am. Breakfast consisted of juice, coffee, bananas and other fruits, toast, eggs, funky cheese, and of course: rice and beans! They keep the breakfast food on a table under a mosquito net, along with a pair of hot water and coffee tanks, and a big pitcher of whole (fresh) milk for the coffee. At about 8:00am we were all fitted into some rubber boots (“Wellies”) and hit the trail for an incredible 3 hour jungle hike. First we passed the caiman pond, a meadow with horses and a few baby horses (just born a few days ago!), crossed a stream, and then headed into jungle. Along the way, one of the family cats came with us up to the point were it couldn’t cross the stream, and then just sat and cried loudly at the edge of the stream, while we proceeded on without him. It was heart wrenching! The jungle was unreal, with bright red/orange frogs with blue hands, Toucans, parades of leaf cutter ants, a giant non-biting spider, a bright green frog with black spots, a nearly invisible brown frog on a brown leaf, and the icing on the cake: a 10 foot Bush-Master snake! It was hot and sweaty but not insanely so, and it was mostly out of the sun. Along the way we encountered a leaf that the natives use to help prevent Malaria. They chew a leaf or two every few months. After the French woman offered to try one even though it is extremely bitter, we all tried. Bitter was not the word for it. After a few seconds of “that’s not too bad”, it hit. My mouth felt like it was going to implode! Luckily I had a water bottle. Someone else took to rinsing their mouth in the stream, which is not a good idea. I hope the rest of their trip was “uneventful”. We also smelled the liquid from a broken vine that repels insects. I swear it smelled exactly like the bug repellant product Raid. Finally we noted a white tree sap that burns with the fury of diesel fuel, but nobody had a lighter so we had to take Gusto’s word for it. Some Down Time After the hike around 12:00pm, I headed back to the cabin for a nice hot Solar Shower. Really, it was hot! When I booked the trip I assumed “Solar Shower” was a fancy term for “Cold Showers”, but I was pleasantly surprised! In fact, at the moment in time, it was certainly the best shower in my whole life! I headed over for lunch at 1:00pm, where we had rice (what? No beans!?), a hash of beef and diced “cuke-like” veggies, fruit, and juice. After we and coffee and delicious little sugar cookies. After lunch 3 of the others were going horseback riding with Gusto. I chose to lay low for the afternoon, having had a very strenuous past 3 days. I needed to regenerate. The Swiss woman also stayed behind as she said she was afraid of horses. Her favorite past-time is parasailing, but she’s reluctant to go on a horse, go figure. I went back to my room to sit and read in the hammock, listen to nature, and do some journaling. I played with the self-timer on my camera and tried to get some fake candid shots of myself in the hammock and doing some writing. This place is Heaven on Earth, that’s for sure! Dinner was at 7:00pm, and we had a chicken soup appetizer, juice, ham, rice and beans, zucchini, and some kind of bread pudding for dessert, with coffee as always. After another nice round of good food and conversation, I was back in my room around 8:45pm for some candlelight journaling before bed. Bird watching is at 5:30am tomorrow, and the French couple is leaving after breakfast. Before bed I sit and watch the fireflies, stars, and the rising of the moon (2 days past full) in the east. Its warm tonight, around 70°F.

Bird Watching and Horseback Riding

Mar 13, 2009
Outside patio at Hotel Le Bergerac
Outside patio at Hotel Le Bergerac (Stephen Smith)
I woke very early at 5:00am after another good nights sleep. The weather has been blissful, but apparently it was not so before I got here. Prior to my arrival, it rained for over 10 straight days! Lisa was bored out of her mind and had read three books. They have been joking how I brought the good weather. Today’s morning activity was bird watching. I met with the Swiss couple and Gusto for a quick coffee at 5:30am. We walked over to the meadow, stopping often to observe something. Gusto was masterful as he would spot something in the distance, locate it in the binoculars, and then drop the tripod and find it in the telescope instantly. From first sighting a hundred yards away to “hey, check out this quetzal in the viewfinder” in 30 seconds or less every time! Over the two hours wandering the meadow, we saw falcons, quetzals (not resplendent mind you, but quetzals just the same!), toucans, orioles, parakeets, you name it. As he showed us birds, he looked them up in his field guide and showed us the picture and facts about the species. After bird watching we returned to the main lodge for breakfast, which was basically the same as yesterdays. During breakfast, Gusto spotted a falcon and ran over to setup the telescope and show us. It seems everyone loves my camera (Cannon G10, 14.7 mega pixels). I returned to my room at 9:45am for a nice warm shower, and read a little more of my book. I’m going to run out of book, since I am over three quarters through it already! Oh yes, the bees! I have an irrational fear of bees. So I was a little tense when I arrived at the lodge and Lisa explained “don’t mind these little honey bees that live on your front porch. They swarm a lot, but are really quite friendly!” But sure enough, they were as small as small mosquitoes, swarmed like mad all day, and never bothered me at all. It was surreal standing among them each time I left, lacing up my boots in a swarm. Horseback Riding I headed back to the main lodge for lunch at 1:00pm where Gusto and the Swiss couple were admiring a massive migration of falcons. There was a sky-road 10-lanes wide all the way across the sky, filled with thousands of falcons. The line seemed to be passing by all day long, with no end in sight. Lunch was a nice treat, spaghetti in a terrifically meaty sauce with garlic bread and juice. This time we think the juice was watermelon with a hint of banana. Coffee and sugar cookies for dessert. Since it was very hot (89°F), we decided to delay horseback riding until 2:30pm, when it was a little cooler. Long pants and rubber boots were suggested. At 2:30pm I headed over to the stable area, where the Swiss couple and Gusto had gathered to saddle up. I was pleased to see that her husband was able to convince her that the horses were easy and tame, and she had nothing to fear. Near the stable area is a giant climbing tree, with several ropes leading up into the canopy. I’m in no shape to try such a thing, but it looked like fun. Being overweight, I felt sorry for my horse, having to carry me around on rocky terrain in the sweltering heat. But he did great, even if we were always bringing up the rear, as he stopped for drinks in streams and grabbed up the nicest greens to eat. Most of the over two hour excursion was down open dirt paths across the former farm land, but we also crossed several streams along the way, and ventured down a jungle path for a portion of the journey. The path was full of wild banana trees with fruits rotting on the tree. But nothing goes to waste, as it eventually falls and gets consumed by the critters. We also saw a few workers running a chain-saw powered ad-hoc saw mill, making boards from downed trees. Selva Bananito is an eco lodge that is very serious about conservation. All of the cabins are made from “scrap” wood that is too small for the lumber mills to bother with (and was left behind when the property was purchased long ago). Dinner was again at 7:00pm, and this time we had an appetizer of deviled eggs and tomatoes (yum!), juice, steak, veggies, baked potato, and a dessert of coffee and bananas in chocolate sauce. Half way through dinner it started to downpour heavily, the first real rain I have encountered on my rainforest journey. During dessert Gusto ran off, only to return with three umbrellas for us! While I thought the rain would make for a nice night of sleeping, I was wrong. I was restless knowing I was leaving at 8:00am, and my bed ended up feeling very damp. I don’t know why, since my tile floor wasn’t wet, but my blanket felt wet. But having grown up camping, this was really nothing at all. The rain itself never came anywhere near the inside areas of the cabin. It ended around 2:00am (I think). As I lay in bed I realize it was Friday the 13th, and nothing bad happened. Just saying is all.

To the border, and off to Tranquilo Bay

Mar 14, 2009
On the van to the Pacuare River
On the van to the Pacuare River (Stephen Smith)
I woke to a damp bed at 6:00am for a 7:00am early breakfast. But the weather had cleared and it was nice. I headed over to the main lodge for my final breakfast, alone this time since the others were off bird watching again. As I ate my usual breakfast, the cook came out to hand me a hot packed lunch for my trip to the border. Cool! It had a drink too, in a plastic Coke bottle in foil. I figured I’d check it out later when I was ready to eat lunch. The driver was 30 minutes late. Not knowing what was going on, the lodge sent someone down to the river crossing on a motorcycle to see if he was there. And he was, reluctant to cross the river since the heavy rain. They coaxed him along, and by 8:30am we headed off. It was two guys. The first actually owned this jeep and was only going as far as the town. The other guy would then take us in a bigger bus to the Panama border. The night before, Lisa had asked me if she could bum along on my ride and get dropped off at the nearest beach town on the coast, Cahuita. It is completely on my way, and I of course agreed. This is her first day off since starting her volunteering at the lodge 14 days ago, and she’s looking forward to some good beach time and staying at a hostel. I admire her adventurous spirit. I don’t think I would have had the nerve to doing something like that when I was fresh out of high school. After a long bumpy drive (maybe two and a half hours?) we arrived at the border. It was a surreal experience. We quickly met my Panama driver Allan, and then went over to the immigration window. I filled out a card, showed my passport, and was off to the other side of the road for a customs window. Both drivers were still with me at this point, but started to make me nervous when they were asking if I had my plane tickets out of Panama, to prove I was leaving. Huh? I’ve never had physical airplane tickets! But it was all for nothing. We handed my passport to the guy, he took in back for a few minutes, came out and returned it, and we were off. My Costa Rican driver left, and Allan and I proceeded to walk across this long, old, steel railroad bridge, with planks along each rail for people to walk on. The wide muddy river flowed underneath, while locals carrying sacks of produce walked about doing their daily business. It was pretty cool, like a scene from a movie! Tranquilo Bay Shortly after picking up Allan’s car (a nice little Nissan) we picked up his son a few streets away, and headed off to the marina near Tranquilo Bay, my home for the next 3 nights. This was also a long ride, but the roads were in such great condition it seemed quick and pleasant. The currency in Panama is the US dollar. We arrived at a house with a gate by the road, and parked in the driveway near the sign saying “STOP! 4x4 only from this point, and a phone number to call). Allan called, and we waited for Jim from Tranquilo Bay to pick me up. In the meantime, I decided to take out the lunch and split with Allan and his son. It ended up being 2 grilled cheese and tomato sandwiches, still hot thanks to the trunk and hot sun! After that yummy unexpected treat, Jim arrived, and we drove his pickup down the short steep road to a marina. The set of islands in this area are known as Bocas Del Toro. Once there, he mentioned that a local woman was having a birthday party at the marina, and I was quickly offered appetizers, birthday cake, and a beer! After giving my birthday wishes and finishing my cake and beer, we headed off in Jims boat, a 20-something foot single engine “Sea-Vee” with a canopy. After a quick ride across the bay, passing several islands and a man hand-line fishing, we arrived at the dock at Tranquilo Bay on Isla Bastimentos around 4:00pm. Nestled in the mangroves, we left the dock, headed down a long boardwalk, past the supply cabana (snorkels, kayaks, etc…), down a cement walkway, and then up some stairs to the main house. He showed me around the second floor large deck, and then the main room where we gather for meals. “Here’s the bar. If it’s off hours and no one is here, just help yourself to whatever you want”. There were two dogs, a few aquariums holding things the kids had gathered, and a barbeque smoker. Inside was a large bar, sitting areas, and several tables for eight. The walls were decorated with guitars, framed maps of Panama and the waterways, and tasteful art from the region. I really felt like a guest in someone’s home, because in essence I was! Jim and his friend from Texas Jay, along with wives Renee and Stephanie, started building Tranquilo Bay. This labor of love ended up taking over 6 years to complete, and has been open for about three. They love to tell the story of their adventure, which is documented in an Inc. Magazine article, entitled Paradise the Hard Way. The property contains the main house (which they live in with their families), along with six air conditioned cabins. The grounds are beautiful, and cement walkways lined with subtle lighting connect everything together. My cabin had a nice queen sized bed, a desk and nightstands (with books and magazines, including the Inc. edition and a ring-bound booklet called “Our Story”), ceiling fans, and a great bathroom with a big shower. This place was simply beautiful. The front porch has two chairs, a table, and a hammock. Interestingly, I never used the hammock. I could have, but I didn’t want to disturb the large and impressive spider that had set up camp between the porch roof and hammock support. Using it would have messed it up, and why bother? I had two nice Adirondack chairs to choose from! After a nice and long awaited shower (I hadn’t had one since the day before, and last night was kind of soggy in the jungle), and a little reading and photo taking, I went over for dinner at 7:00pm. Tonight’s menu was Mexican fare, and it was incredible. We had cocktails first, and I mingled about and met the other guests there, a wonderful family of 5 from New Jersey (Mom and Dad, two teenage daughters and a 9 yr old boy). I had dinner and other meals with them over the next three days, and enjoyed their company. Even though I was traveling alone, I never felt alone at all during the trip. Everyone I have met has been friendly and kind. I went back to the room around 9:30pm, did some journaling and called it a night. I love this place.

Sea Kayaking Through the Mangroves and the Beach

Mar 15, 2009
Pacuare River rafting
Pacuare River rafting (Stephen Smith)
I woke up at 6:30am for a 7:30am breakfast. Today was breakfast tacos with eggs, bacon and juice and coffee. I can sum up the experience by noting that Jim popped out on the deck as I drank my coffee and chatted with his incredibly well behaved son. He asks, “Steve? Would you like your bacon in the taco with the eggs, or on the side?” Yes, this is officially the happiest place on Earth for me, right here and now. After telling Jim my life story at breakfast, the two of us headed off for the dock for some sea kayaking. Along the way we saw a mommy three-toed sloth hanging upside down in the trees, belly up towards the sun, looking down. On that belly, was a baby, also looking peacefully down at us. What a perfect treat to start the day! Of course, knowing I was going in the ocean, I didn’t bring my very new, very expensive, very non-waterproof camera. Figures. The water was as smooth as glass, as we paddled peacefully along the mangrove coast, observing birds, a barracuda, brain coral, funnel-like tube sponges, starfish, countless fish, a few stingrays, crabs on the mangrove roots, and several jellyfish. The ride was relaxing and effortless, as we engaged in good conversation mixed with glorious silence. The Beach We returned by 11:30am, and had lunch at 12:00pm. For lunch we had personal pizzas with the toppings of our choice (chicken for me). A few other families showed up at this point. One from Idaho (I think) and another from New York. After lunch we all got on the boat, along with kayaks, snorkeling equipment, chairs and coolers, and headed off to a beautiful beach in the Zapatilla Cayes, a nearby set of islands. After a 15 minute boat ride we arrived at the island, and Jim and Ramon unloaded the kayaks, coolers, and other equipment. On the island was a park ranger station, and the straw hut home of Ramon. Ramon is a Spanish biologist who tends to the turtles that frequent the island. During the no-turtle months (like now), he lives and works at Tranquilo Bay as a guide and all around staff member. My sunscreen was running low so Ramon let me borrow his. Regardless, I got pretty burnt in no time, swimming around and sipping a beer at the waters edge. So I spent the rest of the time sitting in a chair in the shade, watching the ocean, the people, and the frigate birds living on a tiny island offshore (more like a big rock with a cluster of trees on top). Some people snorkeled, others kayaked around, and still others went on a long walk around the entire island with Ramon (about 3 miles). I sat in the shade and relaxed, engaging in more conversation with Jim and the other guests. We returned at 6:30pm with just enough time for a quick sun burnt shower before the 7:00pm dinner. When I returned to my room I had a pleasant surprise: hanging on my door knob was a laundry bag containing all my dirty clothes, now clean and folded. I never asked for this, but I guess they saw the big trash bag full of dirty laundry with my otherwise tidy bags and just did it anyway. Did I mention how much I love this place? The appetizer was a platter of fluffy flatbread like biscuits (if flatbread could be fluffy!) with hummus, veggie sticks and dip. Dinner was salad, pork chops with baked mac & cheese and veggies, and an incredible fudge brownie with coconut/vanilla ice cream in a martini glass! The brownie was made with local chocolate (one of the excursions here is to a local farm where a retired couple grows and produces chocolate, and gives tours). I sat with the NJ family again, and then watched them play a game of Blokus after dinner. After every one left for the evening, Ramon asked if I wanted to go wandering around in the dark and see what we might find. He grabbed his headlamp and we walked the grounds. We saw a possum and countless spider eyes in the grass and trees. Ramon seems to like hanging out with me, since I’m alone and appear very interested in what he has to say. And I am! I could wander with him for hours, absorbing all his knowledge of the islands and its wildlife. Tomorrow’s activity is going to be a bat-cave hike, followed by a nature hike with Ramon in the afternoon. Sounds awesome! I went to bed around 11:00pm, but woke again at 11:30pm to the sound of a massive downpour. Since I had the A/C off and the windows open, it sounded impressive. I drifted back to sleep, and don’t know when the rain stopped.

To the Bat-Cave!

Mar 16, 2009
All forward! Whitewater rafting on the Pacuare River
All forward! Whitewater rafting on the Pacuare River (Stephen Smith)
I woke up to bright sunshine at 6:30am for a 7:30am breakfast. Today was French toast (big thick heavenly homemade slices with powdered sugar), fruit, juice and coffee. We left for the bat cave at 8:30am. This time we had a 25 minute boat ride to another island. We drove into the mangroves until the boat couldn’t go any further. We had one of the native Indian staff with us, and he tied off the boat and stayed with it. The rest of us headed off into the mangroves in the kayaks. Today we had Jay the owner driving the two man kayak with the NJ dad (he was recovering from a broken rib and bravely chose to go on the adventure anyway). In individual kayaks were the NJ mom, the younger daughter, and myself. After a nice 45 minute ride we reached a small dock. Along the way we saw a caiman, and an egret that always stayed ahead of us but always flew further ahead when we approached. Of course we also saw and heard countless other birds, and crabs on the mangroves, clicking away as always. After a muddy 20 minute hike through the jungle we reached the cave. Along the way Jay showed us a tree that looked normal, but after he banged it with a stick tens of thousands of tiny up tight and defensive ants emerged from every pore in the tree. The frantically patrolled the surface of the tree, ready to defend it. Apparently the tree lets them live there in a symbiotic relationship. They get a home, and the tree gets some defense. We also saw a fantastic bright red poison dart frog, and a native Indian family camped by the trail. They had a small fire, four or five people, and some baskets with water and laundry. Somehow, they beat their clothes in a muddy river, and yet look Clorox bright and clean! We paid them a $3 fee to enter the cave. Apparently they keep the path, cave, and dock in good shape for visitors. Their three single tree hand-dugout canoes sat at the dock alongside our modern plastic sea kayaks. Just before we got to the cave it started to downpour, which the sun stayed out no less. We entered the cave, but the girls quickly chickened out after about 30 feet, when they realized they had to walk through nasty cave water as the bats dove at their heads. It was pretty wild as the three remaining guys walked about 150 feet into the cave in ankle deep water as dozens of bats swooped at us (but never ever touch you, due to their impressive sonar). The other couple had a nice camera (I also chose not to bring mine today since too much water was involved). They got some good pictures, and promised to email some to me when they return. The return trip was peaceful but muddy. Our cave footwear was Tiva sandals with socks. Goofy looking, but it protects you from getting irritating mud between your toes. The socks, having fulfilled their life mission, ended up in the trash back at my cabin. When we got back to the boat, I had a Balboa (the local Panama beer), which seemed like the best, coldest, most “appropriate and timely” beer I ever had. We made it back to the lodge at 12:45pm where I took a too-quick shower and made it to lunch at 1:00pm. This time we had roast beef wraps with plantain chips. Desert was an unreal homemade chocolate biscotti. Again, local chocolate. Jungle Hike After a nice few hours down time (I finished my book), a 3:30pm beer at the main house where I had a nice conversation with Stephanie (Jay’s wife), I met up with Ramon at 4:30pm for a hike in the jungle around the resort area (I’m reluctant to call this a resort. I prefer to think of it as the sprawling home of some really nice old friends, who just so happen to have lots of guest quarters lying about). Ramon and I walked down trails for about 2 hours, seeing lots of plant and animal life. He pointed out a plant that looks almost like a purple lilac that he has never seen on the internet or in any of his books. We saw several parakeets (very hard to photograph since they never stay still!). I also ate a mini-banana that was very sweet and delicious, and split a fresh guava with Ramon. It’s so cool to eat something out of nature, and have it be so sweet and yummy at that! There’s nothing like a private nature hike with a biologist for my last adventure in Panama. I returned for a quick shower at 6:30pm in time for a 7:00pm dinner. Getting the mud out of my Tivas was only partially successful. I’ll have to finish that task at home. Fearing dehydration, I drank 3 glasses of water, then a beer, then 2 cokes! Dinner was chicken and sauce with rice and broccoli. Dessert was the best of all, some kind of cinnamon roll cake with a creamy frosting. Best dessert of the whole trip, by a long shot. Even tops the “tres leches cake” from the first night at Tranquilo Bay! Tonight I sat with Ramon and the New York family. During dessert, Jim brought out the cook, a beautiful Colombian girl who shyly acknowledged the huge applause everyone gave. Bravo indeed! As the crowd thinned, Ramon broke out the laptop and showed the last of us an incredible slide show of his best pictures, showing lots of turtles, birds, insects, and landscapes. This place is beautiful. He took pictures during my stay as well, and posts them to a “secret” URL off of the main Tranquilo Bay website, and will tell me the address at some point. As I packed for my departure early tomorrow morning, I left behind a good sized pile of clothes. Having flown “carry-on only” with a duffle bag and small backpack, I had too many clothes. I wore my heaviest items here, but had no intention of doing the same on the way back. Once I found out that donated clothes are gladly accepted by the local native Indian tribes, I was all for it. Nothing would go to waste. Leaving is such a sad occasion, I didn’t want to go to bed, knowing this was it.

Panama City Tour

Mar 17, 2009
catch that wave, dude!
catch that wave, dude! (Stephen Smith)
I woke at 6:00am for my 7:30am boat transfer to the Bocas local airport. As Jim suggested, I simply left my bags on my porch, and somebody took them to the boat. I headed over to the main house for coffee and a very light breakfast (toast and bacon) at 7:15am. The Indian guide drove the “long boat” to the airport, along with Renee (who was attending a meeting of the local conservation board on the big island) and a guest that was going scuba diving with a dive shop on the main island. Renee accompanied me on a short cab ride to the airport, and stayed with me until she was sure I had my boarding pass and didn’t have any problems. I told her how much I loved this place and their hospitality, which was beyond anything I had ever experienced. They truly have a wonderful thing going, and I hope they are wildly successful in the future: they’ve earned it, and certainly deserve it. The short 9:10 flight to Panama City (which is on the Pacific coast, whereas Bocas del Toro is on the Caribbean Atantic coast) was great. A small prop plane, but they actually served these fantastic ham & cheese croissants (still hot), along with glasses of cold orange juice. Better than anything I’ve had on the big airlines in a long time! I landed in Panama City, and as soon as I left the airport I saw my guide for the day, Rene. Yes, I was safely handed off from Renee to Rene. We jumped in Rene’s KIA van and headed over to the Miraflores Locks at about 10:30am, one of two sets of locks on the Pacific side. We watched some boats make their way through while he explained how the locks worked. Next we moved inside to the museum where he further explained the history. I also watched a 15 minute film (in an air conditioned theater!) about the making of the canal. As we drove off, he pointed out a crocodile in one of the spillways outside the canal. Cool! I had realized that my flight home was at 7:20am, yet the other driver was scheduled to pick me up at my hotel at 5:30am. That seemed a bit too close for my liking, so I mentioned it to Rene. He called both the tour company and the other driver personally, and moved the time to 5:00am. Much better! Over the next several hours (until 4:30pm!) we drove all around and saw the new modern Panama City, beautiful Old Panama City, ancient ruins, government buildings, mixed architecture residential buildings (built by workers from different cultures), churches, an impressive skyline and a nice manmade causeway (from canal rocks) to a set of islands. Near this point we stopped for a great seafood lunch at a little restaurant. We both ordered ceviche (a cold seafood soup), and I got the garlic jumbo grilled shrimp (and jumbo was an understatement!). An ice cold beer made the meal perfect. My only mistake on the entire trip happened after Rene dropped me off at my hotel around 4:30pm, the Country Inn and Suites on Amadore Ave (the causeway). I left my camera bag, some rosary beads and a brochure I bought at the church with the golden altar, and the paperwork he had for me from his travel agency (Tecal Tours, Adventure Life’s Panama partner) in Rene’s van. Oh well, it was a lousy camera case anyway, and shipping it back to me would cost more than any of it was worth. Given the incredible trip I have had, I’m not going to let something this minor spoil anything. After getting to the room, I was spent (it was over 6 hours in the sun after all). So I watched the silly but enjoyable movie “Knocked Up”. It was better than I expected, and it was in English! At 7:30pm I went down to the T.G.I. Friday’s restaurant in the lobby for dinner. It was just too convenient and lazy to pass up. I got a Philly cheese steak and a Mudslide, then went to bed around 10:00pm.

The Trip Home

Mar 18, 2009
The lunch scene on the Pacuare river
The lunch scene on the Pacuare river (Stephen Smith)
I woke at 4:00am for my 5:00am ride to the airport. I went outside to wait at 4:50am, and he pulled up within about 2 minutes. The ride was dark, quiet and uneventful, and I was at the airport by 5:30am for my 7:20 flight. Everything was on time, and I spoke to Craig from the Miami airport around 1:30pm. When I landed in Boston and made it to the sidewalk to wait for Craig, he pulled up within two minutes. I was home by 6:00pm.

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