Central Vietnam: Hoi An

The overwhelm of Hong Kong was nothing compared to the rush of our first cab ride in Vietnam. I didn’t realize the level of motorbike traffic until we were right in the thick of it — there seemed to be no rules, no braking, just a steady stream of people weaving in and out and around each other, hitting roundabouts and entering the flow of traffic moving like a huge school of fish. The honking at first seemed excessive, even aggressive, but I quickly realized it was more of a polite warning to let others on the road know you were right behind them; no one made any sudden moves, everyone co-existed, made space, found a route around and through. As we made our way to the outskirts of Da Nang and into the historic riverside town of Hoi An, the traffic started to calm. Soon, green fields and rice paddies appeared, cattle and water buffalo roaming, tails flicking lazily in the heat.

Our hotel in Hoi An made a good home base, as it was walking distance from Old Town, where we could explore the night markets and watch the soft glow of lanterns from boats cruising the river. We found a good perch in the center of town to enjoy a local beer (at a whole 75 cents each!!) and kick back for some people-watching. Although Hoi An screamed "tourist town," our spot seemed popular with the locals and away from most of the wandering crowds.

After our night of exploring and acquainting ourselves with the town, we woke early in the morning for our countryside bicycle tour. I was a bit nervous at first for the tour, especially considering the others in the group weren’t really into guided experiences at all. Our shuttle led us to a small bike shop tucked inside a quiet alley, where our guide for the day waited. He greeted us with a cold drink and told us that our group would only be 9 total — which seemed promising for a nice intimate adventure! It turned out that we were not disappointed; the tour eased us into the hustle and bustle of the town and eventually out into the tiny surrounding villages of Quang Nam Province, down local dirt paths through rice paddies and fields of produce growing in the sun. We stopped and spent time in several family homes, where we learned to make rice paper cakes, watched the weaving of reed mats, and tasted home-brewed rice wine. It was refreshing to get out of the busy town for a day and interact with the people of Hoi An’s rural communities; everyone seemed delighted to share their homes and many we passed greeted us with wide smiles. By the end of the day, our whole group declared the tour was a highlight and well worth the time, as we likely wouldn’t have ventured out on our own as far without a guide in the first place.