We immediately left Hanoi and headed toward the nearest port to take a morning boat to Cat Ba island. The people thus far were welcoming and really helpful. We actually had a taxi give us directions to the local bus stop where everyone on the bus was amazed by the size of our packs, (I could tell because of the size of their eyes), and when I tried to give the driver what I thought it would cost, he just motioned for us to find our seats… to continue to provide entertainment for the locals I imagine. You can always tell if the tourists take certain routes based on how much staring and laughing you receive. Nothing, a smile and a little chuckle can't fix.
Finding ourselves in the middle of the sea off the Vietnam coast early the next morning, it felt, well, mystical. Winter in Vietnam is very overcast, but unlike my home, is filled with lush green fauna, covering the thousands of islands popping out of nowhere, while making way through the foggy rain.
Arriving at the port in Cat Ba, we were introduced to a sweet little harbor town, flocking with tourists, who might I add were appropriately dressed. We found some motorbike taxis and zoomed (well, not quite, my friend and I were both larger people and were carrying packs the size of a 7-year-old child), and within 20 minutes landed on another, much smaller boat, headed to our first destination.
Our mini boat made its way through endless mazes of fisherman's homes, which are all made on mass amounts of floating barrels. This was so cool. Entire communities in their little wood houses, floating next to one another. Close lines, wood stoves, it all existed. Surrounding the houses were tons of nets or oceanic farms. The people of Cat Ba have a deep connection with the water. Fishing is how they make a living of course, but we're talking water world style, just not quite so primitive, (or beastly).
We ended up staying at a “resort” completely cut off from other parts of the island. Our place was on a single cove so the only humans I was forced to interact with were other guests. The place was really nice, sparkly, and new. The beach was beautiful, and the water was the deepest emerald green. And of course, the weather was cold. We had one really nice day and jumped in some complimentary kayaks, paddling our way in and out of the islands. There were so many, and they all looked the same. It’s amazing how more tourists, (or locals), don’t get lost out there.
I spent the day doing what I love most, relaxing and hunting seashells. So thank goodness we found a deep undeveloped cove full of old petrified seashells. That was a solid 2 hours of fun for me.
We enjoyed the quiet secluded feeling of majestic Cat Ba for four days, and then…headed back to Hanoi for our first long bus ride south. About 20 hours long, to be exact. We heard 16, but buses stop, slow down, yada yada. Traffic isn’t nearly as predictable as in the states. But, it's a great opportunity to hit the local market, buy a bunch of munchies which you can't identify, and get some countryside views. Which with the lack of sleep on a bus, is the only way to find comfort in the ride.
Hoi An was a sweet and charming place. If I understand correctly, most travelers prefer the visit for its quaint feel. Located on the Thu Bon River. The UNESCO historical district is filled with a market of all goods, cheap beer, and of course, traditional entertainment, like martial arts and wish-making (buying a candle in a little gift box and letting it go on the river).
Chinese Buddhist temples line the streets filling the air with the sweet smell of offerings like flowers and incense. We spent most of our time wandering the streets, people watching, and of course, finding the beach. Hoi An provided ample entertainment. You could have something tailored within hours, like business suits, dresses, leather shoes of ALL types, tops, and bathing suits! The list continues! The fabrics of Vietnam have long been exported around the world, and the locals caught on. Every other shop is a tailor shop filled with “authentic” Vietnamese silk. It’s certainly an attractive thought, but it's also an expensive one. We stayed on the budget side of things, walking and people watching.
One full day of hot (oh, yea, we're back in warm weather at this point, thank goodness), sun, and the pacific ocean, we found ourselves burnt to a crisp and jolly little American travelers. On the beach in most of SE Asia, locals wander up and down the long sweltering beaches selling trinkets of all kinds. Most people, including myself, give some sign of “no” (shaking the head, motioning no with the hand) before they can even approach. This is the best way to avoid spending ridiculous amounts of money on things you’ll find are only a novelty while abroad, but we forget that sometimes the conversation can be made without busting out the wallet. I try to find the balance in this, not rejecting so early in the game, but actually meeting the sellers. This however is a selling scheme, telling their story…..but if you're a lover like me, you’ll want to give them something in the end, money or not. One woman and I talked for a bit, she told me that she had been selling on the beach for 16 years, and had only met a handful of Americans. Her message to you my fellow Americans, “ Please, come see my country. People of Vietnam were so angry with America, but now, people understand, and we want to share our country." She told me her grandfather was in the American war (Vietnam war), and for a long time hated Americans. I carried this uneasy notion the whole time I was there. She said that now he understands better and he couldn’t spend all his life hating people (saying that about travelers these days who were generally not associated with that war). I was glad to chat with her about it, and whether it's the majority who think this way, it's hard to say. But it certainly began something inside of me. More of that self-identity thinking.
After a week or so in Hoi An, we ventured off to Ho Chi Min city, it was time to start planning the next country..
Ho Chi Min is a city, like any city. Whatever you're into, you can find it. Traffic and panhandlers, cuisine from all over the world, and endless people watching. Ho Chi Minh wasn’t exactly a perk for us but was the only way to head to Siem Reap, Cambodia, without backtracking north. Uh, well.. let's see…in the big city, we did some gift shopping and I had the best Pho I’ve ever tasted.
We left Ho Chi Min city early in the morning to cross into Cambodia via a land crossing. A rather smooth transition I might add. I’ve come to feel really comfortable with border crossings, for the most part, I don’t have any problems. The only struggles come from making sure your ride is on the other side (if you plan it this way). When we took a bus from city to city and had to cross a border, the original bus would stop on the side you were coming from, and from there, it's a guessing game. Walking in between borders, making sure you’ve landed in the right areas, and last but not least hoping your bus is waiting on the other side, is still waiting. You must always trust...and go with the flow. And low and behold, there is your bus.
