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Ecuador Travels from the Amazon to Galapagos

Monkey business in Coca
Monkey business in Coca
Quito, a trip to Sacha Lodge in the Amazon, and a 5-day Galapagos Island cruise. I was amazed at the incredible variety in environment and landscape I found in such a tiny country. And the wildlife did NOT disappoint!
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arriving in Quito

Nov 28, 2008
In the Amazon, ants are everywhere!
In the Amazon, ants are everywhere! (Jodi Teeple)
I've learned that one doesn't get anywhere fast when leaving from Missoula, Montana but problems with flight connections almost sidetracked my tour before it had a chance to begin. "Plan extra time," I always say (and I'd better start following my own advice!) Betty picked me up at the airport at 10:30 at night with a huge smile that only she could muster at that time in the evening! I was whisked away to La Rabida, my hotel for the night, and relaxed into a deep mattress and even deeper sleep.

Off to the Amazon

Nov 29, 2008
Our guide, Jorge, demonstrates his frog belly rub technique
Our guide, Jorge, demonstrates his frog belly rub technique (Jodi Teeple)
I awoke early and enjoyed a delightful breakfast in the hotel restaurant! Brownie the bunny (their resident pet) kept me company in the small courtyard as birds came and went, and left their song in the air. Luis arrived right on time and we were off to the airport for my flight to Coca. He was such a delightful guide - knowledgeable about all areas of his city and he explained that he had attended college for several years to obtain a degree in tourism and history, so that one day he could become a teacher. The airport lounge was very pleasant with coffee, tea, juices, fruit, cheese, bread, and even free newspapers. Jorge, our guide, met us all and soon we left for the short 30-minute flight out of the Valley City of Quito and across the country of Ecuador. The Amazon soon came into view and wove its way under us as we finished the air portion of our trip. Upon arrival, we had time for a quick beverage and then were off on the next adventure - a long boat ride. We experienced a common Amazon downpour along the way, but with thick rain ponchos provided, we all survived easily. A sack lunch was provided on the boat and we arrived in good spirits. A short 15 to 20 minute walk brought us from the banks of the Amazon to a black water lagoon; a quick small canoe ride finished the trip and deposited us at La Selva EcoLodge. It was a memorable trip and upon arrival there was a welcoming reception complete with delicious snacks and mango cocktails for all. The presentation was amazing but just a glimpse of what was to come.

La Selva Jungle Lodge

Nov 30, 2008
Polka Dots - Amazon Style
Polka Dots - Amazon Style (Jodi Teeple)
My daily routine is going to look like this: 6:00 - 6:30 AM Wake Up and eat Breakfast 7:00 - 7:30 AM Depart for the Day's 1st Adventure 12:30 PM Lunch! 3:00 - 4:00 PM Afternoon Adventure 7:00 PM Dinner!! ??? After Dinner Adventure I met Raul Lupuy today, our native guide. Together with Jorge, our small group explored the jungle on foot and learned about varying species of ants, frogs, and spiders as well as forest basics such as the differences between disturbed and original forests. Since I was mentally drained, I took the afternoon off and spent much-needed 'alone' time reading in my hammock! Peace in the Amazon. Each day the generator runs from 5:00 AM until 10:00 PM so there is hot water, lights, electricity to charge your camera batteries, etc. And then I was forced to leave technology behind and give in to relaxation. It was amazing! I read my book by candlelight and fell asleep to the mystical sounds of the jungle's night creatures.

Meeting Silverio and his family

Dec 01, 2008
A popular leaf - a butterfly on each side
A popular leaf - a butterfly on each side (Jodi Teeple)
Today was especially special as we made our way down the river to Mr. Silverio's home. He is an indigenous man - quiet, humble, and very knowledgeable about his surroundings and their challenges. He introduced us to his garden (hardly resembling our Western notion of what a garden should look like) and demonstrated his planting skills. We learned that his father, and grandfather, had lived on this same land, and farmed in the same manner. The crops ranged from various types of squash to Manioc (a starch staple grown much like the potato), ginger and aloe, fruits and other regional crops such as peanuts, yucca, peppers, bananas, plantains and even some cacão (chocolate beans) to sell. Not furrowed in a perfect row, each plant was thoughtfully placed amongst the surrounding plants, helping to keep the soil more fertile and using the larger plants as protection for smaller, more fragile crops. After dinner, we set out in a small canoe for another night of bird watching. Tonight, we were able to follow a large group of bats as they floated through the air, using their sonic skills to search out dinner. It was an amazing sight, really cool to watch! And we were able to spot the eyes of the local caiman - bright red and glimmering - for a brief moment before the entire animal slipped effortlessly into the lagoon. I visited during high water season, but Raul told me if I were to return during low water, I would usually be able to see the entire animal and not just his erie eyes.

Butterflies, Garzacocha Lake, & Piranha

Dec 02, 2008
mighty white hunter
mighty white hunter (Jodi Teeple)
Since the rain had decided to settle in for the morning, we were unable to visit the Macaw salt lick (the beautiful parrots evidentially don't arrive when it is raining) and so explored La Selva's Butterfly farm instead. The Amazon is home to 1,800 species of butterflies and La Selva has done its best to create a self-sufficient farm for research and resale of a few of the species. I was very interested in the process they've developed to sweep leaves for the eggs and then to nurture each stage of the butterfly's life cycle. The variation of cocoon colors, sizes, and shapes was overwhelming - as was the corresponding variation in the adult butterflies. After lunch, we visited Garzacocha Lake, better known as Lake Hyacinth since it is almost completely choked by these flourishing water plants. The canoe trip was serene, and as the birds mesmerized most of my fellow travelers, I spent my time photographing the many butterflies and dragonflies enjoying the success of the blooming hyacinth plants. Of course I had to pause in my obsession of bug-watching long enough to watch the monkeys in the trees, the green parrots that curiously viewed us from overhead, and to be amazed at the Common Potoo, a brown bird who had set up lodging on the very top of a dead palm tree. Talk about camouflage techniques! Even when editing the film, I had to remember what I had been photographing as the bird, from most angles, looks exactly like an extension of the tree! But alas the peace ended and we returned for dinner. After dinner, I wanted to try my fishing skill with the local piranha.

Back to the City

Dec 03, 2008
Just hopping by
Just hopping by (Jodi Teeple)
After repeating the entry process of boat rides and a short flight, I returned to Quito. Luis was waiting for me (of course!) and we were off for a quick tour of the city. Historical sites hold my interest, so Luis showed me old churches, an amazing museum of the history of Ecuador, and the city square. The day had passed very quickly and it was time to return to La Rabida for an amazing dinner of Filet Mignon! A little sleep, and tomorrow's adventures would begin.

Arriving at the Galapagos Islands

Dec 04, 2008
Fruit & Veggie Art de jour
I don't know if I got any sleep last night, but the wake up call was sounding and I knew it was only a matter of minutes before Luis would be waiting for me in the foyer. He took me to the airport and guided me through the process of getting on the right plane headed to the Baltra Airport on the Galapagos Islands themselves. After arriving and passing through Island security, we took a short mini-bus ride to ready zodiac rafts which transported us the final distance to our comfortable yacht, the Legend. Not to let the daylight go to waste, we soon landed on our 1st Island and took a hike up a long stairway to a viewpoint that made the trip well worth it! Bartolomé Island is a small island whose landscape resembles 'moonscape'. From the viewpoint, we all recognized Bartolomé's famous pinnacle peak! Beautiful! Back to the boat for a welcoming reception, a wonderful dinner, and an educational lecture for what was in store for the next day.

Isabela's Urbina Bay & Espinosa Point on Fernandina

Dec 05, 2008
Priss explains her flight technique to us
Priss explains her flight technique to us (Jodi Teeple)
Up at 6:45AM. Compared to my last few days, this is sleeping in!! Today we took the 'Volcano Rock' walk which covered terrain a bit more rugged than I'd planned on. Wearing my favorite pair of Brasilian Havaianas flip flops, I found a 2" thorn had penetrated straight through them! Fortunately, I didn't put full pressure on my foot before I realized the mishap, and was able to come away with a minor (and embarrassing) mishap! I'm going back to real shoes this afternoon. The landscape was incredible, however, and well worth the dangers I'd passed through. I saw large pieces of white coral in the middle of the Island - remnants from when the sea covered over the top. Land iguanas, Darwin finches, Holy Trees, huge bumble bees!, and my personal favorite - the lava lizard - were plentiful at this stop. Enough exploration - it was time to go back to the beach for some snorkeling!! After lunch, we headed out for Espinosa Point, where literally 100s of sea iguanas and sea lions 'litter' the beach! Sea turtles are swimming next to our zodiac and we even saw a Galapagos penguin - the dancer of the sea! And it was here that I saw my 1st Cormorant - drying their feather-less wings in the slight sea breeze. Too cool! Pelicans also graced me with their presence and I saw my only snake of the trip - a very small and skinny variety. It still would have sent my Mom screaming, had she been with me. For dinner the crew prepared an outdoor barbecue and the day was finished.

Egas Port on Santiago Island and Rabida

Dec 06, 2008
So sad, leaving La Selva
So sad, leaving La Selva (Jodi Teeple)
Another 6:45AM wakeup call. The voice that comes over the intercom system was so pleasant to almost be annoying! "I am sorry to wake you from your pleasant dreams but it is 6:45 and breakfast will be served in 15 minutes..." Where is my obnoxious alarm clock when I need it? The black sand beach of Egas Port was amazing! We snorkeled along a rocky point with the sea lions and iguanas in the water, and then headed to shore to conquer the elements! Cacti were growing everywhere, even when it appeared there was nothing for them to attach roots to! I enjoyed this Island very much, and was especially impressed with the high volume of sea iguanas sunning themselves everywhere - EVERYWHERE! I was staying on the designated walking area and still almost stepped on one or two! Move it already. But the time passed all too quickly and we were headed back to the boat for lunch and a quick nap. Later I was able to participate in a deep-water snorkel and saw sting rays, a white-tipped reef shark, and lots of tropical fish - water heaven. Once back to the zodiac, the group was off to interrupt the quiet time of a Blue-Footed Boobies colony relaxing with brown pelicans on a rocky ledge. Like the other animals, they were not even slightly perturbed with us and allowed the cameras to click away! It was as if they knew they were the main star of the show. The ship had its Neptune Party on board tonight in celebration for those of us who were crossing the Equator by sea for the first time. And ice cream was served - and devoured - by all. Good times.

Charles Darwin Station and the Highlands of Santa Cruz

Dec 07, 2008
commom potoo on a palm
commom potoo on a palm (Jodi Teeple)
Guess what? It is 6:45AM again! To the Charles Darwin Station we all head after breakfast. It is somewhat strange to be in a small town after only having life on the ship for the past few days. The Station is quite interesting and I finally have seen Lonesome George! The station works to repopulate native species of animals and also native plants. We were able to get very close to many of the giant tortoises and learned why some have saddle shaped backs, and others domed-shaped shells. I spent quite a bit of time wandering here, and reading the informative signs (in English and Spanish) and then headed out. Since we had free time after the Station visit, where did we all head? To the 1st Internet Café we saw, of course! This was shortly after the election, and everyone was curious to see who President-elect Obama had chosen for his cabinet positions. Once we had this news, we were off to the nearest cafe for a deep cup of espresso - Galapagos style. Delicious! After lunch, we headed back to Santa Cruz Island and drove into the Highlands. As we covered the short distance, I noticed that tortoises dotted the fields the same way cattle dot the fields of Montana. Don't bother them; they are eating grass, lumbering along at their own pace, and not bothering anyone. Weird similarities! In Montana, we have seagulls following the cattle and farmers, and in the Highlands it was cattle egrets - bright white birds that contrasted sharply against the lush green vegetation. We visited a local farm and enjoyed fresh fruit (pumelos) and a beer. Trails were spread out across the farm, and we explored and enjoyed seeing tiny wildflowers and lots of tortoises. I couldn't help myself, and followed the example of a small girl by crawling inside a giant tortoise shell on display at the farm. I have to admit, it was easier to get into than out of! But what a tourist photo opp!! Before returning to the Legend, we stopped off at a HUGE lava tube! We'd heard about the formation of the Islands, how volcanoes under the sea had forced lava upwards and outwards. It was a bit surreal to actually walk through one of the 20' tall tunnels left behind as the lava cooled and air dispersed. I felt transported back in time, way back! A farewell cocktail party awaited us back on the boat, and was a lovely precursor to dinner. A few glasses of wine, a bit of dancing, and the night was over - as was my quick trip to the Islands.

It is over?

Dec 08, 2008
tackling the Amazon
tackling the Amazon (Jodi Teeple)
The wake up call was a sad event today, but I was up with my suitcase packed and ready for the porter. And then it was off to explore Bachas Beach on Santa Cruz. Here we walked past a salt lagoon where rumor had it pink flamingos frequent. We only had a confirmed feather sighting - maybe next trip! Past the salt lagoon we climbed a short distance for a breathtaking view of the blue ocean, brown and green cactus, and the white of the horizon. Along the way we saw Galapagos fly catcher birds, ground finches, and other indigenous birds. Our walk circled us around part of the Island and we were back to the beach. Sea turtles were finishing covering their nests and it was an incredible sight! The fact that blue herons were searching for eggs not properly covered was disconcerting, but this was nature at work. Normally the turtles dig and cover their nests at night. We didn't know what had delayed these great creatures, but chances were that many of their eggs would soon be devoured by the herons, and would not have the opportunity to transform into young sea turtles. I arrived back to Quito and Luis was prompt - was there any doubt? He took me to a local grocery store so I could buy some South American food stuffs (dry goods, of course) and there was a giant Christmas tree in the lobby completely decorated with Oreo Cookie decorations! Commercialism strikes Ecuador, absurd! Tomorrow I fly home at 6:00am. The amazing journey has ended.

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