So there is a country called Malawi, and there is a very large body of water called Lake Malawi, but there is also Lake Malawi National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lake Malawi itself is the southernmost of the great lakes of the Rift Valley (Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria are two other notable ones). The park is centered around Cape Maclear and Monkey Bay. For a visitor, it is easiest to divide the enormity of Lake Malawi into three areas: resorts along the lakeshore (a goodly number are all around the Cap Maclear area), resorts on the islands off of Cape Maclear, and Likoma Island further to the north and near the coast of Mozambique.
Likoma Island is not the easiest to get to, but may be well worth it. Beautiful beaches abound with the mountains of Mozambique shooting skyward when you look eastward. And since getting there either requires taking a ferry or chartering a plane, the island will have very few visitors. The best lodge on the island, Kaya Mawa Lodge, has only 11 rooms. As an added bonus, baobab trees can be found around the island.
Back down on the southern portion of the lake, in the national park, I had the chance to stay at Pumulani Lodge on the Nankumba Peninsula right on the lakeshore. Sunset boat rides, water sports, snorkeling, and diving are great options. The lodge has incredible views, air conditioning in the bedrooms, two swimming pools (one near the lake, the other up near the main lodge), and a telescope for stargazing.
To be just as remote as Likoma without going quite as far, Blue Zebra Island Lodge is ideal. It is within Lake Malawi National Park and a short boat ride from the town of Salima (a short drive from Cape Maclear). It is the only lodge on the chain of islands that is less than 30 minutes away from shore by speedboat. A perfect spot for honeymooners, or those wanting a quiet time after a busy safari, the island lodge has a variety of watersports (kayaking, snorkeling, wakeboarding, water skiing, fishing, scuba diving, and more), nature trails, a pool, and a spa.
But the biggest highlight of Lake Malawi for me was going in the water and snorkeling with the cichlids. Cichlids are a broad family of fish. The seismic creation of the Rift Valley tore deep gashes into the earth and formed these lakes. But it also separated the fish, as the lakes are not connected to each other. Cichlids, it turns out, are very adapt at evolving quickly. As such, Lake Malawi has over 850 documented endemic species of cichlids, with many scientists saying well over a thousand species may exist in this lake and no where else.
Some of the species are bland-looking, some are brightly colored; some have stripes (like the Blue Zebra), others are spotted or solid in color. Some developed strange abilities—one species can suck eggs and hatchlings out of the mouths of another species that developed the ability to carry their young in their mouths for protection!
The water in the lake is usually very clear, and snorkeling is an easy way to view a sampling of the species. I was able to motor over to a secluded bay, protected from the wind, and snorkel among hundreds of fish swimming about, some watching me warily while others went about their business. Wherever you visit, snorkeling trips can be arranged around the lake. If you are a scuba diver, don’t miss your chance to explore the deeper sections of the lake.
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